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Tricked Out Squier Club Part 2
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
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I felt about the same as you but I went a different way.
As I LIKE a super glossy neck - and I don't sweat - I just really hard-pressure buffed pure carnauba wax onto the neck until it was slick and almost epoxy-coated in feel and appearance.
However - my SR500 has a mostly bare feeling wood and I love it dearly too. Of course, it too is heavily waxed in the same way. Kinda like a military spit shine on the neck - verstehst?
(You KNOW I read all your posts - right?
I hope you read all my posts!
So do you hand buff or use a drill attachment? Buff it in long enough I would think it would just get shiny automatically. How well/long does that wax hold up over time and use? Auto wax?
I hope you read all my posts!
So do you hand buff or use a drill attachment? Buff it in long enough I would think it would just get shiny automatically. How well/long does that wax hold up over time and use? Auto wax?
I do.
Ahem --- on to the wax part.
I take a small piece of linen and really pack it with pure carnauba automotive paste wax.
I then place it on the heel of my hand and rapidly press and rub in linear direction, lengthwise on the neck until the rag gets stuck and tries to glue itself to the neck.
I load the cloth again and repeat the process a couple more times until I have a thick shell on the neck.
Let it dry overnight and then with a new piece of linen, I buff it HARD again with the heel of my hand until I feel some decent heat being created.
Let it cure a few hours and then terry cloth buff it to a super shine.
As far as the actual wax goes, I use either Pro Wax or Mother's California Gold, Final Stage with no cleaners or abrasives.
Power buffing isn't necessary - just a lot of pressure and generate some heat.
No cleaning necessary. Carnauba is a great wax that will never cloud or need to be thinned.
If you use the linen material - and stiff cotton fabric will work - it makes enough heat with the pressure to fuse the wax to the wood. It will build up after that to fill irregularities and imperfections and wood grain too.
You CAN use a power buffer, but it's not necessary to get the finish done. Just use terry cloth in the end to take any missed spots off.
The finish is very hard and won't need to be redone very soon at all. I can get 5-6 months out of the finish and once you've got a good base coat, just a minor application of even a liquid version of the same wax brand and type will suffice.
At that point, you can just use a soft applicator and buff with a facecloth - that's what I use. I buy a 12-pack of face cloths at Wal-Mart for $2.98 or so. Use them and then wash them for next time - don't use and fabric softeners though!
If you use the linen material - and stiff cotton fabric will work - it makes enough heat with the pressure to fuse the wax to the wood. It will build up after that to fill irregularities and imperfections and wood grain too.
You CAN use a power buffer, but it's not necessary to get the finish done. Just use terry cloth in the end to take any missed spots off.
The finish is very hard and won't need to be redone very soon at all. I can get 5-6 months out of the finish and once you've got a good base coat, just a minor application of even a liquid version of the same wax brand and type will suffice.
At that point, you can just use a soft applicator and buff with a facecloth - that's what I use. I buy a 12-pack of face cloths at Wal-Mart for $2.98 or so. Use them and then wash them for next time - don't use and fabric softeners though!
What do you think: this body with a CIJ '51 neck?
JAZZ J Bass BODY Shoreline Gold *ASH* Pickups/Bridge ad Neck
I'm wondering if the neck will fit.
JAZZ J Bass BODY Shoreline Gold *ASH* Pickups/Bridge ad Neck
I'm wondering if the neck will fit.
chuck norriss said:
I have the same body except mine is alder. I have a CV 60's Jazz neck to put on it. The pocket is very close by needs to be opened up just a touch. It's such a small difference you can probably do it yourself. I'm pretty sure I'm going to.
iJazz - My handle and my guitar.
the bodies are so so quality, not bad for the price. like mentioned in an earlier post i believe the telecaster bass neck has a squared heel, any j or p bass has a rounded heel. if you wanted to mod it, it could work but it wont be a direct drop in.
Gord_oh said:
Not bad for the price kind of sums it up. I haven't messed with the pups at all, but the controls and wiring are uninspiring, so I wouldn't expect much in that department. Like I said, I fell for the color.
iJazz
Hey Gord-o --- I just squared a neck for a buddy and installed it into a regular rounded body, but I trimmed the PG square.
Ya can't see it's wrong if the PG is squared and snug.
i have a warmoth jazz pickguard routed for a precision split coil pickup that has been unused for too long. im debating on turning this guy into a pj and load it up with dimarzio model p and j pickups.
to all you modders, is this possible without a router?
If you've got the hands of Clark Kent - you might get away with just using a Dremel.
Collect some Band-aids first. And hydrogen peroxide.
Collect some Band-aids first. And hydrogen peroxide.
as long as it looks good from under a pickguard, thats all im going for. c'mon, im a bass player. i have to have a good set of hands.
iJazz said:
The pickups are acceptable? My guess is for that price you're getting a body, pg, and bridge--maybe, but you'll have to replace electrical components & possibly the bridge.
Hey Joe,
any experience with this?
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or could i get by without it?
any experience with this?
[This invalid link has been removed]
or could i get by without it?
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