Wow! Thinking you may be an engineer by day? Gonba need some training to run that. Guess if you can wire it you can play it.
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Nope, Not an engineer. Just know a thing or two about wiring electric instruments. Really I just took what I liked on a two pickup instrument, and added another pickup seems simple in theory but in practice it gets a little complicated making sure it doesn't hum. I also wanted to see what happens when you have 40k of humbuckers in series.Wow! Thinking you may be an engineer by day? Gonba need some training to run that. Guess if you can wire it you can play it.
That makes two of usI'm anxious to see how it all work out.
Yeah it might change once I go to the wood store, but for now I think I'm going to continue with this,Baltic birch is excellent material. However, for the price, you can probably score some really nice hardwoods. Alder and ash are in the 4-6 dollar/bf range. Even some good quality hard maple isn't much more. You have the skills for sure. May as well go for it!
Of course, there is nothing wrong with the ply! It is sturdy and takes a finish no problem.![]()
View attachment 829945
Here's a mock-up I'm probably going to use individual string bridges though to get a 17.5 mm spacing.
I'm probably going to use individual string bridges though to get a 17.5 mm spacing.
I haven't decided yet, which way I'm going to go on the bridge, other then the hipshots I haven't been able to find any other bridges with 17mm spacing, I kind of like the look of the individual string bridges, and if there's less sympathetic vibrations that's a plus.There are plenty of normal bridges that are spaced more narrow than the 19mm Fender standard. If you like individual bridges for aesthetic reasons, that's one thing, but don't think that that's the only way to get narrow spacing.
Dude, that thing looks monstrous! (Monstrous in a completely awesome way)
This song comes to mind...
Not with this many switches, but I've had all of these options on separate basses before, my current Bass at hand has a single pickup, volume, bass and treble controls, series/split/parallel switch, south coil treble cut in series and a kill switch. Another of my basses has two humbuckers a 4 way switch (plus mute), volume, bass cut control on the bridge in parallel, treble cut on the neck in series, and a series/split/parallel switch for the bridge pickup. That said I also have a bass with just a volume, 3 way selector switch and tone switch.Just a thought, but have you played a bass with the variety of switches and stuff you have planned for this one? I ask because sometimes folks find that the myriad tonal possibilities provided by such a layout are actually quite a bit more subtle in practice than predicted. Myself included...![]()
It's going to be a bolt on so if it doesn't work I can make a new neck, I'm just using off-cuts from the body for the neck so I'm not out much money.I would have to think that if it's a high quality pressure-fitted multi-laminate, it will be as stable as wood can possibly be. Oak would be a strong wood resulting in a strong neck, but I'm not familiar with its use as a tone-wood. Not sure about birch either. The neck is where most of an instruments tone comes from after the pu's so tone-woods use are optimal.
Nope that was a 5 string based on a Ric 4001, this one is based somewhat loosely on the Ibanez fireman/reverse iceman guitar (edit-looking at the specs I guess this is very Ric like, I did that unintentionally) . After trying a bunch of 5 strings and borrowing a freinds I realized two things I don't like the wider neck of a 5 and I do like the tighter 17.5mm spacing at the bridge. In that same time I lost access to a tig welder and realized that I didn't want to spend 300$ on the carvin neck but I didn't have the experience or tools to build a neck through and I couldn't get it to look right with the bolt on neck. Thus this build. I am going to revist that build when I get a little better set up, glowing bits and aluminum body included. Might do a sister build with it that features color case hardened steel.Wasn't this one originally going to be an aluminium body and have approx seven-hundred switched and a glowing bit?
Looks cool though! Keen to follow how it turns out.