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Truss rod maxed - what are my options?

Mike Lull is about 2 miles from my house. I have him in mind as my next step.

Regarding cutting more threading: My understanding is that the reason adding washers works (in most cases) is that it essentially buys you more thread-driving distance by moving the pressure-bearing surface up the rod towards the headstock. It makes sense to me for example that dropping in 1/8" of washers is effectively the same as cutting 1/8" of additional thread. Repair guys, is this correct?
 
Mike Lull is about 2 miles from my house. I have him in mind as my next step.

Regarding cutting more threading: My understanding is that the reason adding washers works (in most cases) is that it essentially buys you more thread-driving distance by moving the pressure-bearing surface up the rod towards the headstock. It makes sense to me for example that dropping in 1/8" of washers is effectively the same as cutting 1/8" of additional thread. Repair guys, is this correct?

That's most of the reason - for moving the adjuster back up to threads that aren't currently being used - but it also gives new purchase to the wood.

The wood directly under the adjuster is possibly furred up or distorted from original dimensions and may even be smashed from 'robust' truss-rod tweaking by someone else, and the metal of the washer(s) will provide a hardened surface for the adjuster to work on again.

Wood is not really a very good 'bearing surface' unless it's like lignum vitae*.

* - Lignum-Vitae is a unique hard and dense wood that is used to make Authentic Hydro Bearings, Ship Bearings, Saw Blocks and all sorts of unique high pressure bearing and high load products.
 
So I'm safe to assume my eighth turn adjustments won't mess up my bearing surface, even if doubled to a quarter max; ever. I have never found need for more, in fact a quarter yields radical results. These folks must really be reefing on those necks.

OP, good luck with your new neck, on the bright side, you can get a nice wood board now.
 
Hi guys, l just bought an av 63 pbass in seminole red. It has la bella 45-105 flats so the neck needed to be tightened to be played by my preferences. I removed the neck two times in order to finish the job and l maxed out trussrod or came to a point l wouldnt risk to press it more. Action is a dream now, but is it good long term to leave it like it? Thanx and sorry if its already been discussed..
 
Hi guys, l just bought an av 63 pbass in seminole red. It has la bella 45-105 flats so the neck needed to be tightened to be played by my preferences. I removed the neck two times in order to finish the job and l maxed out trussrod or came to a point l wouldnt risk to press it more. Action is a dream now, but is it good long term to leave it like it? Thanx and sorry if its already been discussed..
I usually remove the truss nut, add a couple of washers, then replace the nut.

Congrats on the '63 P bass... I am jealous :atoz:
 
I usually remove the truss nut, add a couple of washers, then replace the nut.

Congrats on the '63 P bass... I am jealous :atoz:
Thanx man, well l didnt want to mess with it further, l put out labella off and string it with daddario nickels 45-100. I relieved the truss rod with one full turn, saved my neck from all the tension and actually l love the sound. The bass itself is a dream to play and sound is amazing!
 
Zombie thread revival. So I couldn’t find any washers that would fit, so I made a small “spring” spacer out of some wire. I think it will work. It has plenty of thread on the truss rod now.

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I just got a Fender 70's Jazz (the new MIM reissue) from a guy who bought it on a whim a few months ago. He knew nothing at all about setting up an instrument and said it was exactly the way he found it at Guitar Center. I believe him: the action was awful, the neck was bowed, and intonation was way off, just what you would expect to find on the floor of GC!

But I could tell she was solid and would be a good bass once it was set up. I was wrong - this is a GREAT bass. I have not heard a Jazz that sounds this good in a long time. It's very light and resonant, and every note just jumps off the bass. It still has the stock Fender 7250 strings on it, which sound wonderful.

Now the bad news: I took it to my tech who told me he adjusted the truss rod since the neck was bowed (it wasn't horrible, but definitely needed to be straightened out) It's fine now, but he said the truss rod was really tight and even though he felt it probably should have been tightened one more turn he was afraid he might break it if he did, so he stopped.

I picked this up as they were closing up shop on Friday and didn't have time to discuss in more detail. I'm planning to call Fender on Monday, but being the second owner I don't imagine they will help me. If everything stays as it is I would gladly play this bass until it falls apart, but I'm concerned now about not being able to tighten the truss any further if it should need it.

Is this going to be a problem for me down the road? I don't think returning it is an option. The guy I bought it from was clueless about it so I don't think he ever messed with the truss rod or knew there was an issue. Nor would I want to give it up...this one just has that special mojo, even I had to buy a new neck for it I would.

Any suggestions? Lighter strings maybe, something like TI flats or tapewounds that are known for low tension? That would presumably let me loosen the truss rod and have some room to tighten if needed later on.

Thanks.
 
I recommend getting in touch with stew mac. They have a truss rod rescue kit specifically for fenders and are experts in this area. So maybe they can give you some guidance. In any event you won't have to replace the neck but might have to rescue the truss rod. But at least you can with confidence try tightening it a bit more to get it back where it should be.
 
I just got a Fender 70's Jazz (the new MIM reissue) from a guy who bought it on a whim a few months ago. He knew nothing at all about setting up an instrument and said it was exactly the way he found it at Guitar Center. I believe him: the action was awful, the neck was bowed, and intonation was way off, just what you would expect to find on the floor of GC!

But I could tell she was solid and would be a good bass once it was set up. I was wrong - this is a GREAT bass. I have not heard a Jazz that sounds this good in a long time. It's very light and resonant, and every note just jumps off the bass. It still has the stock Fender 7250 strings on it, which sound wonderful.

Now the bad news: I took it to my tech who told me he adjusted the truss rod since the neck was bowed (it wasn't horrible, but definitely needed to be straightened out) It's fine now, but he said the truss rod was really tight and even though he felt it probably should have been tightened one more turn he was afraid he might break it if he did, so he stopped.

I picked this up as they were closing up shop on Friday and didn't have time to discuss in more detail. I'm planning to call Fender on Monday, but being the second owner I don't imagine they will help me. If everything stays as it is I would gladly play this bass until it falls apart, but I'm concerned now about not being able to tighten the truss any further if it should need it.

Is this going to be a problem for me down the road? I don't think returning it is an option. The guy I bought it from was clueless about it so I don't think he ever messed with the truss rod or knew there was an issue. Nor would I want to give it up...this one just has that special mojo, even I had to buy a new neck for it I would.

Any suggestions? Lighter strings maybe, something like TI flats or tapewounds that are known for low tension? That would presumably let me loosen the truss rod and have some room to tighten if needed later on.

Thanks.
Make sure the humidity level is at least 45%. The bass may have been subjected to low humidity for a while. At higher humidity levels, it may go into a back bow, giving you more room for adjustment. Could be that simple.
 
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