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Truss rod maxed - what are my options?
- Thread starter Sparkdog
- Start date
I'd go to the next level and try to put some weights on it to counteract the bow - with the truss rod released and no strings on it I think.
yeah, that's a problem all right.
this is the very definition of a "lemon" of a used instrument.
since you have nothing to lose here, you might try clamping the neck into backbow and using heat (like from desk lamps with 100w bulbs set against the board) to maybe retrain the wood to a new shape.
this has been the biggest problem with the vintage modifieds ime. the majority of them havent had necks that could be straightened. i just set up one yesterday that came into my shop and was shocked when the it took a set up with nearly zero relief and low action at the bridge without any weird spots on the board. i was tempted to buy it just because it was such a fluke!
how long would you recommend keeping the heat on the neck while its clamped into backbow?
Heat - IMO would be the last resort.
Just putting weights on the neck to combat the curve would be best I think. Heat has it's place, but I'd refrain from trying that the first go 'round.
And as a proud owner of a couple of VMs and another pair of VM necks, and none of them are bent, bag or sag at the knees, I wonder if they just send all the defective necks to Santa maria for some obscure reason.
Just putting weights on the neck to combat the curve would be best I think. Heat has it's place, but I'd refrain from trying that the first go 'round.
And as a proud owner of a couple of VMs and another pair of VM necks, and none of them are bent, bag or sag at the knees, I wonder if they just send all the defective necks to Santa maria for some obscure reason.
Never had to on a bass - but once on an old guitar that had no truss rod (OK - I was a kid) I hadda do it to even get the strings to be less like a lap-steel.
It worked, albeit kinda slowly over a week or so.
Come to think of it - a hydraulic press used GENTLY for a week might be a better way. Maybe.
Emphasis on 'gently'.
It worked, albeit kinda slowly over a week or so.
Come to think of it - a hydraulic press used GENTLY for a week might be a better way. Maybe.
Emphasis on 'gently'.
Q. When a back bow is induced, the truss rod will expose, to a point, more threads out of its channel to the world and in forebow it will expose fewer? As follows, inducing back bow moves the rod "over centre" and threads begin receding again?
Hmmmmm. Some hard to describe mental pixs here!
I don't believe that the ability to pass the rod actually THROUGH the truss rod body (the non-moving part) is an option.
At some point the interference of the adjustable rod with the non-adjustable part will become obvious.
One of the less arcane laws of physics as we know it: 'No two objects can occupy the same space at the same time'. There are caveats to that rule however.
I don't believe that the ability to pass the rod actually THROUGH the truss rod body (the non-moving part) is an option.
At some point the interference of the adjustable rod with the non-adjustable part will become obvious.
One of the less arcane laws of physics as we know it: 'No two objects can occupy the same space at the same time'. There are caveats to that rule however.
SurferJoe46 said:
I guess I just mean when youse bends the neck the rod pokes outta lil more until youse bends it far enough it starts goin back inside all turtle like?
walterw said:
Well if you realease it from the stress you have placed on it the exposed threads will again become un-exposed. All I'm asking is just what you answered above.
So, the final q I have is if forward bow is induced more threads will become un-exposed?
The way to do this, in reality, by those who DO this:
Remove trussrod nut, lube threads, reinstall w/ washers if desired--usually a good idea--leave loose, DO NOT TIGHTEN.
Shim between the nut & first fret, another shim at F15, piece of 2x4, level, aluminum stock, whatever. Shims should be at least 1/4" thick. Using 2-3 clamps spaced fairly evenly between F1-F15, clamp the neck into a backbow. I usually use 6" Quickclamps for this, unless I'm dealing with an extremely resistant neck, in which case I'll use C clamps, and cauls to fit the back of the neck. Do some serious clamping here, so that the neck is quite backbowed, visually.
Tighten the trussrod nut firmly, but don't overdo it; this is not a contest. If you have the time & inclination, leave this setup overnight. If, when you restring the bass, the neck has a backbow, GOOD!--loosen the trussrod incrementally, with the strings at pitch, to get to where you want to go, relief-wise.
A tool that is a real boon, the Stewmac Invalid Link Removed
I take a reading of the relief at F7 strings on, then strings off, then loosened trussrod; this gives me a roadmap of where I want to get to, with each neck.
One of these days, I'll take a series of photos of this...
Nope. I still think the defective necks are sent to Santa Maria.
if all of your vintage modified necks are cases that the rod will straighten the neck into backbow without strain and can take strings laying on the fretboard action without dips or raises in the board causing buzz than you have the finest examples of these basses in existence because to date ive had one vintage modified neck be able to take that setup. the majority of mexican fenders wont set up like that either.
Synopsis of my problem:
Under normal circumstances, if the neck is bowed forward causing too much relief and stupid-high action, tightening the truss rod nut (turning clockwise) should straighten it.
My Squire J neck is bowed up, but the nut WON'T turn any more. So, assuming that I've run out of threads for pushing, I add in some washers under the nut, induce BACK-bow with a clamp, and tighten the nut down again. My problem is that the nut still reaches the same point of no more turning, with still no effect on the shape of the neck, and the nut sticks out a little farther now.
I guess I don't understand the mechanism of the TR nut: how does the turning of the nut accomplish the deformation of the rod (and the neck)? I'm starting to think that maybe an anchor point at one end or the other of the rod is broken or fused or something.
Under normal circumstances, if the neck is bowed forward causing too much relief and stupid-high action, tightening the truss rod nut (turning clockwise) should straighten it.
My Squire J neck is bowed up, but the nut WON'T turn any more. So, assuming that I've run out of threads for pushing, I add in some washers under the nut, induce BACK-bow with a clamp, and tighten the nut down again. My problem is that the nut still reaches the same point of no more turning, with still no effect on the shape of the neck, and the nut sticks out a little farther now.
I guess I don't understand the mechanism of the TR nut: how does the turning of the nut accomplish the deformation of the rod (and the neck)? I'm starting to think that maybe an anchor point at one end or the other of the rod is broken or fused or something.
There must be a good luthier in the Seattle area. It is possible to cut more threads on the rod. Stewmac sells a tool kit to do it. Invalid Link Removed
Get a quote and if it's too much, I guess you will have to buy a neck. Check the classifieds, they do come up for sale.
Get a quote and if it's too much, I guess you will have to buy a neck. Check the classifieds, they do come up for sale.
