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Truss rod maxed - what are my options?
- Thread starter Sparkdog
- Start date
Ric5
Inactive
- Jan 29, 2008
- 29,772
- 30,452
- Disclosures
- I like 5, 8, 10, and 12 string basses
Throw on a set of TI JF for a first try. On my Fenders TIs are easy on the neck and require a relief adjustment over say chromes etc.
I'm not much of a "flats" or "tape" user, but don't flats have higher tension than rounds (at least that's what I've heard and experienced with my fretless with flats)?
Good tip. As well you should clean the threads with a q-tip moistened with a little solvent and then put a tiny dab of PETROLEUM grease or vaseline on the threads.
As a rule, no, they have less tension. Except for D'addario Chromes which have more.
- Aug 21, 2008
- 10,386
- 252
- 68
- Disclosures
- Owner, SGD Music Products
+100!
This is also probably why the truss rod is maxed out. When the neck is being recalcitrant, you need some help getting it back when it belongs before you tighten the nut.
Also some necks have had strings that had too much tension on them for too long, so lighter gauge or tension strings will also help.
Flats have higher tension than rounds for the same gauge. TI flats are the exception. The only tapes I have used are Rotosound, and they where high tension but didn't feel like it. i.e. I would have sworn on a stack of bibles that the tapes where lower tension than the flats, but my truss rod said otherwise
- Aug 21, 2008
- 10,386
- 252
- 68
- Disclosures
- Owner, SGD Music Products
Thanks guys, lots of great advice here (and a couple of really bad ones...different tuning? THAT's practical!)
As luck would have it, my tech left for vacation yesterday so I can't speak with him for a week
In the meantime I decided to take the easy way out and try some different strings. I ordered a set of DR Sunbeams in 45-100, probably get those Friday. Yesterday I picked up a set of TI Jazz Flats and put those on. They immediately solved the tension issue, the tiny amount of bow in the neck flattened right out and it's dead straight now.
But tone-wise, I'm probably in the minority here, but I was not impressed with these at all. They sound quite thin to me, especially the .70 A string which is considerably weaker than the others. C'mon...that's a D string in my normal sets! There's just no bottom or balls in this set, to my ears at least.
Then I broke out a set of D'Addario black nylon tapewounds I had tried on another bass. Tension is about the same as the TI's but these feel and more importantly, sound way better to me. I set up the bass with those and so far I'm digging it. I'm taking her out to a blues jam tonight and that will tell the tale when I hear it with a band.
I may still end up getting some work done on this neck, but for the moment at least, with lower tension strings on it everything is fine and she plays great.
Thanks again for all the helpful input.
As luck would have it, my tech left for vacation yesterday so I can't speak with him for a week
In the meantime I decided to take the easy way out and try some different strings. I ordered a set of DR Sunbeams in 45-100, probably get those Friday. Yesterday I picked up a set of TI Jazz Flats and put those on. They immediately solved the tension issue, the tiny amount of bow in the neck flattened right out and it's dead straight now.
But tone-wise, I'm probably in the minority here, but I was not impressed with these at all. They sound quite thin to me, especially the .70 A string which is considerably weaker than the others. C'mon...that's a D string in my normal sets! There's just no bottom or balls in this set, to my ears at least.
Then I broke out a set of D'Addario black nylon tapewounds I had tried on another bass. Tension is about the same as the TI's but these feel and more importantly, sound way better to me. I set up the bass with those and so far I'm digging it. I'm taking her out to a blues jam tonight and that will tell the tale when I hear it with a band.
I may still end up getting some work done on this neck, but for the moment at least, with lower tension strings on it everything is fine and she plays great.
Thanks again for all the helpful input.
Thanks guys, lots of great advice here (and a couple of really bad ones...different tuning? THAT's practical!)
As luck would have it, my tech left for vacation yesterday so I can't speak with him for a week
In the meantime I decided to take the easy way out and try some different strings. I ordered a set of DR Sunbeams in 45-100, probably get those Friday. Yesterday I picked up a set of TI Jazz Flats and put those on. They immediately solved the tension issue, the tiny amount of bow in the neck flattened right out and it's dead straight now.
But tone-wise, I'm probably in the minority here, but I was not impressed with these at all. They sound quite thin to me, especially the .70 A string which is considerably weaker than the others. C'mon...that's a D string in my normal sets! There's just no bottom or balls in this set, to my ears at least.
Then I broke out a set of D'Addario black nylon tapewounds I had tried on another bass. Tension is about the same as the TI's but these feel and more importantly, sound way better to me. I set up the bass with those and so far I'm digging it. I'm taking her out to a blues jam tonight and that will tell the tale when I hear it with a band.
I may still end up getting some work done on this neck, but for the moment at least, with lower tension strings on it everything is fine and she plays great.
Thanks again for all the helpful input.
You can sell the TIs in a heartbeat, in the classifieds in TB.
I've got that on my shelves somewhere, been awhile since I've looked at it. It's an older version, maybe 10 years by now.
- Aug 21, 2008
- 10,386
- 252
- 68
- Disclosures
- Owner, SGD Music Products
Hey guys, so I want to thank you for all of your advice. Today I went to the hardware shop, and bought six #6 metal washers and a 7/32" drill bit (glad I bought the six washers as I destroyed two in process).
Anyways, I drilled out the hole, and filed off a bit of the edges of the washer. I made two but as soon as I removed the neck and took out the nut, I realized that adding two washers would cause the nut to stick out too far. So I put in one, hand tightened the bolt, back-clamped the neck a bit (not all that tight, pretty much when it was dead flat and not back-bowing) and then tightened up the nut. I didn't add the glue because I got worried about getting it on the rod's threads.
When I slapped on the neck again and tuned the strings, the relief was .010 at the 7th fret. But now, seven hours later it's .017. A bit of an improvement from .021 but the really good thing is that the nut isn't all that tight.
Question though, now that the nut is sticking out a bit, I have to remove the neck every time I want to adjust the rod. Is it okay to keep loosening and tightening the neck bolts? Could the threads get worn out over time (more specifically in the neck)? Should I maybe put some of those moisture packs in my hard-case or something to try and keep it in the same conditions year-round?
Thanks,
Matt
Anyways, I drilled out the hole, and filed off a bit of the edges of the washer. I made two but as soon as I removed the neck and took out the nut, I realized that adding two washers would cause the nut to stick out too far. So I put in one, hand tightened the bolt, back-clamped the neck a bit (not all that tight, pretty much when it was dead flat and not back-bowing) and then tightened up the nut. I didn't add the glue because I got worried about getting it on the rod's threads.
When I slapped on the neck again and tuned the strings, the relief was .010 at the 7th fret. But now, seven hours later it's .017. A bit of an improvement from .021 but the really good thing is that the nut isn't all that tight.
Question though, now that the nut is sticking out a bit, I have to remove the neck every time I want to adjust the rod. Is it okay to keep loosening and tightening the neck bolts? Could the threads get worn out over time (more specifically in the neck)? Should I maybe put some of those moisture packs in my hard-case or something to try and keep it in the same conditions year-round?
Thanks,
Matt
If you 'feel' very carefully when you put the neck screws back in and slowly turn the screws backwards as in: taking them out - you might be able to discern the threads that are in the neck from the screw threading it's way into the wood.
When you feel that little 'ramp' and a tiny almost imperceptible drop then you can turn the screw the right way to tighten it back up.
That way you are not re-cutting new wood and making the holes get chewed up and the screws won't tighten well.
When you feel that little 'ramp' and a tiny almost imperceptible drop then you can turn the screw the right way to tighten it back up.
That way you are not re-cutting new wood and making the holes get chewed up and the screws won't tighten well.
Like Joe said. I use my fingers only to feel the threads. You can also harden them with a couple small drops of thin ca glue down the sides of the holes. Allow it to cure for an hour, to be safe, before putting the screws in.
That makes sense. I just hope I'll be able to tell.
Something I just thought of, in case the neck threads get damaged over time, is there anyway to drill out a bigger hole and put some steel threads into the neck and then machine screws into them? Seems like a decent idea, but there are graphite rods and the truss rod in this neck but I'm not sure how close they are to the screw holes.
But I guess this is just more for peace of mind.
Something I just thought of, in case the neck threads get damaged over time, is there anyway to drill out a bigger hole and put some steel threads into the neck and then machine screws into them? Seems like a decent idea, but there are graphite rods and the truss rod in this neck but I'm not sure how close they are to the screw holes.
But I guess this is just more for peace of mind.
