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U.S. Peavey Club

#23,141
mb94952 said:
I've never seen a neck split in half like that and I hope I never do !!!
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Follow Chip's instructions and you'll never will :)

JTbass44 said:
I thought the neck profile was slightly different and the width at the nut was wider
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For a while Patriot and Dynabass necks had 2 options ; 1.5" or 1.7" nut widths. Options were later dropped as Peavey fine tuned their production methods.

Those production methods also account for supposed differences in profile. See it's common to see the term "CNC" banded about when folks talk Peavey , truth is the early machines were mostly glorified pin routers. Differences occurred due to the unfinished template blanks reacting to temperature , guides getting worn etc , it wasn't by design :thumbsup:
 
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#23,142
kodiakblair said:
Follow Chip's instructions and you'll never will :)

For a while Patriot and Dynabass necks had 2 options ; 1.5" or 1.7" nut widths. Options were later dropped as Peavey fine tuned their production methods.

Those production methods also account for supposed differences in profile. See it's common to see the term "CNC" banded about when folks talk Peavey , truth is the early machines were mostly glorified pin routers. Differences occurred due to the unfinished template blanks reacting to temperature , guides getting worn etc , it wasn't by design :thumbsup:
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Great info here. Thanks for the clarification. Appreciate it.
 
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#23,144
There are ways to get at the truss rods on bi-cut necks, like the Cip Todd way. This SB-2 had a repair done in similar fashion. There was evidence of the fretboard having been lifted also, so not sure exactly what was done, or exactly how. Pretty sloppy not plugging the hole, but it worked! The down side was the top 1/8" of the rout showed. One of my JB-2's has a frozen rod, but the neck (bi-cut solid maple) has been stable for years, now. If it ever goes bad, I'll attempt the Chip method!

9f824a41.jpg
 
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#23,151
mb94952 said:
I use a business card cut in half but sandpaper makes more sense.
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Business card works for a shim but doesn't have any grip to hold the neck in place.

The sandpaper was used along with the micro-tilt since the heel , propped up on a grub screw , was more likely to move.
Just another cheap practical solution which , if you suggested it today , would horrify bass guitar owners :roflmao:
 
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#23,152
kodiakblair said:
Business card works for a shim but doesn't have any grip to hold the neck in place.

The sandpaper was used along with the micro-tilt since the heel , propped up on a grub screw , was more likely to move.
Just another cheap practical solution which , if you suggested it today , would horrify bass guitar owners :roflmao:
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Yes, I use them as a shim, but sandpaper would make a better shim :) I love the micro tilt option, but I know a lot of people don't, which I'm not sure why. It seems like such a logical solution.
 
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#23,153
mb94952 said:
I love the micro tilt option, but I know a lot of people don't, which I'm not sure why. It seems like such a logical solution.
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Some folks have this weird notion that the neck heel should lie totally flat in the pocket and be super tight on 3 sides. Better transfer of vibrations/energy ..... Heel propped on a grub screw messes with that notion :thumbsup:
 
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#23,154
kodiakblair said:
Some folks have this weird notion that the neck heel should lie totally flat in the pocket and be super tight on 3 sides. Better transfer of vibrations/energy ..... Heel propped on a grub screw messes with that notion :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Oh ok, I see. Thanks Blair. If there is a difference, I can't hear it.
 

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