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U.S. Peavey Club

#24,861
Runnerman said:
The Bongo has 4 bands of boost/cut and I routinely have to cut the bottom especially on outdoor gigs to get a good mix. Otherwise can sound boomy and like you are pushing the subs too hard. Cutting the low and boosting the mid-high/high does the job along with some pup blend. Super hot pre's tend to have this issue in my experience so the bass cut can come in handy.
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Same as the 18v mid-sweep pre on my Carvin. It's just too thick at center detent, at least with my mid-forward tone.
 
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#24,863
tindrum said:
I’m thinking about offering my US Millennium Plus 4 string up for trade for a U.S. Cirrus. Not positive about the market now though I know both basses are climbing. Is that a fair swap? Or am I barking up a tree?
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I appreciate and own USA Cirrus and Millennium basses but IMO the Cirrus is worth more. This is especially true if your Millennium Plus for is the J/J version.

That said, you may find someone willing to swap basses straight across.
 
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#24,865
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#24,870
songwriter21 said:
I adjusted the neck so it's basically flat. You can get the same action with the stock bridge and using the neck tilt correctly. I had the Hipshot bridge laying around, and didn't want to mess with the tedious tilt function.

@PeaveyPlayer probably has a neck that's messed up. I had a previous GV where I used the stock bridge and tilt, and had no problem getting really low playability.
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Even after showing up with that one brass piece it’s a lot better I still find it very hard to play up higher


Even with the bass tuned 1/2 step down

ps these super old peavey strings are magical
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#24,872
PeaveyPlayer said:
Even after showing up with that one brass piece it’s a lot better I still find it very hard to play up higher


Even with the bass tuned 1/2 step down

ps these super old peavey strings are magical
View attachment 4575500View attachment 4575502View attachment 4575503View attachment 4575504
View attachment 4575513
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That's not the stock bridge. I got that as stock on my Schecter Stiletto Studio 5. The stock ABM only has 3 screws, soooo someone drilled more holes.
 
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#24,877
Templar said:
Peavey Forum. Anyone else have one of these bad boys? I've been ignoring this bass for years because it's heavy. But lately my back and shoulder have been feeling pretty good so I dragged out a couple of boat anchors for my daily warmup. I'd forgotten how good the Forum plays and sounds (DA nickel rounds 100ga). I have to say, it's an absolute BULLDOZER of a bass. The authority the notes have is amazing, especially down low where some basses seem to get a bit lost. This may be the strongest and most musical sounding bass in my herd. Now I remember why I haven't sold the heavy bastard. Color me impressed!

Anyway, since I recently found out that the Axcelerators don't share the same weight problem that I mistakenly thought they did, I must have one. Keeping an eye out for a nice Axcelerator + in case anyone wants to sell theirs.

My Forum (ebay pic)

View attachment 4573839
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I have a Forum 5, and I love it. Heavy as hell, but the neck and tone are the best.
 
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#24,878
@PeaveyPlayer you are describing a number of different problems.
The G-Bass bridge: No, it's not entirely "normal" that the plate is bent, but it's something that happens (Rick anyone?). If you really can't stand it you can buy a replacement of the Gototh 201B-4 bridge (it's reasonably cheap, like 30$).
The GV: It is unclear what the problems you are experiencing are. For example you have a set of strings that is not well suited for that bass (they are too short) so it's already not optimal. Is the action too high? Do you have room to lower the saddles? If not do you have room to raise the microtilt screw? Is the bass buzzing even with high action? What is the current relief of the neck?
 
#24,879
Murivan said:
@PeaveyPlayer you are describing a number of different problems.
The G-Bass bridge: No, it's not entirely "normal" that the plate is bent, but it's something that happens (Rick anyone?). If you really can't stand it you can buy a replacement of the Gototh 201B-4 bridge (it's reasonably cheap, like 30$).
The GV: It is unclear what the problems you are experiencing are. For example you have a set of strings that is not well suited for that bass (they are too short) so it's already not optimal. Is the action too high? Do you have room to lower the saddles? If not do you have room to raise the microtilt screw? Is the bass buzzing even with high action? What is the current relief of the neck?
Click to expand...

Gotoh 201B-4 -- this is a similar bridge used on the Fury and Patriot - correct?

Microtilt Warning --- Collectively, we agree that Microtilt is a good "testing" and "setup" function used for creating a shim. Some have noticed issues that the placement of laminated (made from multiple pieces of wood) sometimes will crack at the micortilt position. I have not experienced this failure -- it may be due to improper use (reference neck bolts).
 
#24,880
Murivan said:
@PeaveyPlayer you are describing a number of different problems.
The G-Bass bridge: No, it's not entirely "normal" that the plate is bent, but it's something that happens (Rick anyone?). If you really can't stand it you can buy a replacement of the Gototh 201B-4 bridge (it's reasonably cheap, like 30$).
The GV: It is unclear what the problems you are experiencing are. For example you have a set of strings that is not well suited for that bass (they are too short) so it's already not optimal. Is the action too high? Do you have room to lower the saddles? If not do you have room to raise the microtilt screw? Is the bass buzzing even with high action? What is the current relief of the neck?
Click to expand...
Relief is very

on the GV relief is very minimal

no buzzing

my saddles are bottomed out
 

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