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U.S. Peavey Club

Try sheet metal screws, not sheetrock. They still may not match up, but it's going to be a heck of a lot better chance of it matching up than sheetrock
Sheet metal screws have more threads per inch than wood screws. So while they will work for an untapped hole, they won't work in a hole that's been tapped with a wood screw. The ones I found on Amazon should be exact (if they are as pictured.) They arrive tomorrow, I'll report back.
 
Pat quoted me $500 to paint a new wood body. I felt that was high, especially considering it needed no prep work. Guitarpaintguys are almost half that. Everyone has a very long turnaround time though - 3 to 6+ for GPG, and longer for Pat.


Bare wood bodies require more prep work, not less. Certainly not no prep work. Grain filling, sealing, leveling. Turning bare wood into an acceptable substrate to paint.
 
Ok Peavey heads....
I have a GV neck with a back bow and the truss rod is loose. Anyone have any luck straightening one of these out? I remember posts about bracing it and applying low heat and letting it sit.

Any advise?
G and GV have a wooden core, and a composite fiber outer layer. I don't know what the heat does to the composite material.
How far are you from an acceptable relief with the strings you want to use?
 
Ok Peavey heads....
I have a GV neck with a back bow and the truss rod is loose. Anyone have any luck straightening one of these out? I remember posts about bracing it and applying low heat and letting it sit.

Any advise?
Not sure where you're located geographically, but if you live somewhere that gets a good hot summer, you can clamp it in a frontbow and leave it in the back of the car for a few weeks. Certainly not as "controlled" as one of those heat clamp rigs, but the inside of that car can hit 150F in the summer, which is plenty to loosen the wood up.

Or, don't jeopardize the bond of the wood and the composite, and just plane the board level again. That'll likely include a refretting procedure though, so either not the cheapest or the most time-sensitive solution. And that's assuming theres enough board to even level.
 
Wou
Not sure where you're located geographically, but if you live somewhere that gets a good hot summer, you can clamp it in a frontbow and leave it in the back of the car for a few weeks. Certainly not as "controlled" as one of those heat clamp rigs, but the inside of that car can hit 150F in the summer, which is plenty to loosen the wood up.

Or, don't jeopardize the bond of the wood and the composite, and just plane the board level again. That'll likely include a refretting procedure though, so either not the cheapest or the most time-sensitive solution. And that's assuming theres enough board to even level.

I mean I’ve always wanted an ebony board. What about fretboard swap haha
 
Also
Being aware this is a usa club

any know have info on BXP?

in order of I’m assuming.. oldest to newest

Edit! I missed a 4th?

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