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U.S. Peavey Club

#4,881
mark beem said:
Thanks mech. This doesn't seem to be the case however. While turning the key I can see the shaft rotating but after appox. 5° of movement the entire shaft slips back to the starting position.
Click to expand...

It's broke. If you dissect it I'd be interested in the failure mode. The aluminum disc covering the gear can be pried off but can't be reused. Drill a small hole and pry it out with a small screwdriver. The nub on the post that goes in the gear probably broke off.

mech
 
#4,883
I put black hardware from a Dynabass 2000 5-string on a early 1993 Foundation 5 with the super ferrites, which is really cool because it's all black with a maple neck and DR Black Beauty strings.

Unfortunately, my smallest allen key (1/16") is not small enough to adjust the saddle height. Anybody know what size I need for these saddles, and where to get one that small? I've not had this problem with any other Peavey saddle. Either the 1/16" or the 3/32" fits the tiny allen socket.
 
#4,884
CrewsControl said:
I put black hardware from a Dynabass 2000 5-string on a early 1993 Foundation 5 with the super ferrites, which is really cool because it's all black with a maple neck and DR Black Beauty strings.

Unfortunately, my smallest allen key (1/16") is not small enough to adjust the saddle height. Anybody know what size I need for these saddles, and where to get one that small? I've not had this problem with any other Peavey saddle. Either the 1/16" or the 3/32" fits the tiny allen socket.
Click to expand...

I believe it's a 1.5mm (about .059"). I don't have my calipers handy. A long time ago I took a 1/16 Allen wrench and lightly filed all 6 sides on one end till it fit. That way I didn't have to have both sizes in my kit.

mech
 
#4,885
Here are photos of my fretless TL-5. If you look at it with the naked eye, it looks like phenolic resin fretboard. But looking at it with a camera flash close up, damn... maybe it's rosewood? I don't know, maybe it's because the board's so highly polished. In the photos you can see the reflection of the strings on the board.


img3109w.jpg


img3107ky.jpg


img3112ix.jpg
 
#4,887
Fretless basses don't usually have inlays, in my experience. Which makes me think this is a factory fretless. I mean... who would drop the money to replace the entire board?? But then again, this is the only fretless TL-5 I've ever seen, so I have nothing to base it on.
 
#4,888
smcd said:
Fretless basses don't usually have inlays, in my experience. Which makes me think this is a factory fretless. I mean... who would drop the money to replace the entire board?? But then again, this is the only fretless TL-5 I've ever seen, so I have nothing to base it on.
Click to expand...
Yeah that was my point.. Doesn't look like someone simply defretted it..

Interesting.. I suppose there could have been a one-off custom build fretless. I'm like you, this is the only one I've ever seen. Have you tried contacting Peavey with the serial number to see if they had any info on it?
 
#4,889
mark beem said:
Yeah that was my point.. Doesn't look like someone simply defretted it..

Interesting.. I suppose there could have been a one-off custom build fretless. I'm like you, this is the only one I've ever seen. Have you tried contacting Peavey with the serial number to see if they had any info on it?
Click to expand...

Never contacted Peavey on this. If I do, I'll have to send them belated congratulations on what a nice bass it is.
 
#4,890
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#4,891
smcd said:
Here are photos of my fretless TL-5. If you look at it with the naked eye, it looks like phenolic resin fretboard. But looking at it with a camera flash close up, damn... maybe it's rosewood? I don't know, maybe it's because the board's so highly polished. In the photos you can see the reflection of the strings on the board.


img3109w.jpg
Click to expand...

Definitely started life as a first gen.

If it's a factory fretless, it could be an ebony board, which was standard, that was highly polished. I've seen a few Peavey ebony boards (TL-5, Sarzo) from that era that show almost no grain and they weren't polished.

The active/passive switch has also been removed and the hole is plugged. Probably wired active only. Be interesting to know if it's a stock pre or a Bart.

Nice PU rings that look like painted metal that were made to fit the Barts and the SF ring mounting pattern.

I also don't recognize the knobs as anything used by Peavey.

I'll have to go with it being non-factory de-fret but great looking work by someone who knew what they were doing.

mech
 
#4,894
mech said:
Definitely started life as a first gen.

If it's a factory fretless, it could be an ebony board, which was standard, that was highly polished. I've seen a few Peavey ebony boards (TL-5, Sarzo) from that era that show almost no grain and they weren't polished.

The active/passive switch has also been removed and the hole is plugged. Probably wired active only. Be interesting to know if it's a stock pre or a Bart.

Nice PU rings that look like painted metal that were made to fit the Barts and the SF ring mounting pattern.

I also don't recognize the knobs as anything used by Peavey.

I'll have to go with it being non-factory de-fret but great looking work by someone who knew what they were doing.

mech
Click to expand...

I never looked to see what type of pre-amp is in there. I'll do that tonight. Funny thing, the stock battery cover - which is broken on 9 out of 10 TL-5's - is still intact.

Definitely was a 1st gen TL-5. Personally I wouldn't have swapped the Super Ferrites for the Bart's, but I have to congratulate the guy who did this, as it sounds like a million bucks.

As mark beem pointed out, this board has no inlays, which seriously makes me wonder whether this is a de-fret. In order to make this as it is, they'd have to remove and replace the fingerboard. Which seems like a TON of work to put into a bass at this price level.
 
#4,898
mech said:
I believe it's a 1.5mm (about .059"). I don't have my calipers handy. A long time ago I took a 1/16 Allen wrench and lightly filed all 6 sides on one end till it fit. That way I didn't have to have both sizes in my kit.

mech
Click to expand...

It's smaller than that. I found my metric allen set, which has 1.5mm and 1.27mm keys, and even the 1.27mm is too big. Maybe I'll file the 1.27mm down a bit.

edit: it occurs to me that the interior of the socket might have a patina of corrosion on it, which shrinks its size.

edit2: that was it. I put a drop of WD40 on the tip of the 1.27mm allen key, and with a little wiggling, it went in snug.
 

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