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U.S. Peavey Club

#5,563
4001Chaser said:
A question about the Koa Unity basses. I played one a friend had some years back and it is the reason I have my Dyna Unity now. The sound and feel had me hooked in an instant. However, the Koa was extremely light weight.....and beautiful..... and my back would love it but, it really had "neck dive" problems. Is this an issue with all the Koa Unitys and how do you compensate for it? Yeah, I want one of these too. Thanks!
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I'm gonna chime in and say the Koa Unity I just got also has no neck dive issues. I also use a wide strap, and coupled with the lightweight of the bass it is very easy to control
 
#5,564
ImageUploadedByTalkBass1370800845.237757.jpg

Here's mine... appears my bass was built sometime after 01/24/89.

SN on headstock is 04494962
 
#5,568
mech said:
DynaBassPCB-foil_zps90cbdd40.jpg


Just for fun facts...rdg is the preamp engineer, FJE is the circuit board designer, DYNA BASS the product name, 98890361 the raw circuit board part number and 072385 (July 23, 1985) the date code for when the circuit board artwork was finished (for this revision). The artwork for the circuit board pictured was laid out by hand. There's at least one later version that was computer generated with a date code of 020588 and PCB designer initials WM from the time Peavey transitioned to computer circuit board design. There's no real difference between the different versions.
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Just for reference - I just opened up my '89 Sarzo and the board info reads:

DYNA BASS
RCB Pt #988907060A - Handwritten next to that is T3588
Date Code: 012489
Initials: WM
 
#5,569
I am getting the same reading from both the neck and bridge pickups on my volt meter. But google says I need to check the other 2 wires (green and white) that are joined and shrink wrapped together. I don't think that's necessary.... input???? Can't find how to check the pan pot to see if its working.
 
#5,570
JEDI BASS said:
I am getting the same reading from both the neck and bridge pickups on my volt meter. But google says I need to check the other 2 wires (green and white) that are joined and shrink wrapped together. I don't think that's necessary.... input???? Can't find how to check the pan pot to see if its working.
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If the pickups read the same with the PUs un-soldered from the PCB, then the bridge pickup should be good. Best way to check a pickup is to wire it to a separate jack and go into an amp.

If the pickup is good, a cold solder joint on the pcb. You can electrically check the pan pot with the PUs un-soldered. After that, pull the PCB and check the pan pot for physical damage.

mech

edit: If you look at the solder joints on the pan pot on the PCB I posted., the one for the wiper and the one to it's right don't look great. I reflowed the solder on those two joints and several others. Can't remember what the problem was but reflowing the solder cured it.
 
#5,572
I was just looking at my classic MIJ bass with active / passive. The preamp board, as far as I can see, does not have a trim pot to balance the volume between active and passive. The active is 80% louder than the passive.

The Dyna board does.

Another reason just to show that classic USA Peavey is the BEST. Peavey had/has DEEP pockets and they can and do hire the best technicians out there.
 
#5,577
Scott in Dallas said:
Peavey just thought things out better than most other people. They worked with musicians to develop things and needed to do them better in order to survive. Fender sells instruments regardless of quality, and always has a legion of people to make excuses for the company.
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Ain't that the truth !!!
 

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