@StrangerDanger
You want a metric 4mm allen key for your Cirrus.
Thanks!
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@StrangerDanger
You want a metric 4mm allen key for your Cirrus.
Ok,StuartV, just got a roll,of copper tape,from Stewmac,yesterday. Here is my first attempt,at lining the cavity,of my T20. I have the pick guard off,right now,waiting on a pick guard,from Pickguard Heaven/Chandler Music. The original pick guard,don't look that good,after trying to strip the black paint off? I have a tortoise pick guard on order right now. Should have it around 20th of March? If anyone needs any copper tape,I have some for sale. Don't take that much to line the cavity. Have to order a hold roll,to get what you need.I use copper tape.
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Some people like to use graphite paint.
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I like the copper because it looks dang cool when you're done (even though you can't see it once the bass is put back together). And I don't like cleaning paint brushes.
Ok,StuartV, just got a roll,of copper tape,from Stewmac,yesterday. Here is my first attempt,at lining the cavity,of my T20. I have the pick guard off,right now,waiting on a pick guard,from Pickguard Heaven/Chandler Music. The picture of the cavity,did the best I could?The original pick guard,don't look that good,after trying to strip the black paint off? I have a tortoise pick guard on order right now. Should have it around 20th of March? If anyone needs any copper tape,I have some for sale. Don't take that much to line the cavity. Have to order a hold roll,to get what you need.View attachment 812229 View attachment 812230![]()
Regarding my foundation with the neck that needs shifting, a few people have said all I need to do is loosen the neck bolts, push the neck to the side and retighten the bolts. I tried that but it's not working. It just ends up where it was. Am I missing something?
View attachment 809702
It plays fine and the G doesn't fall off the board when I play but the aesthetics are bothering me.
OK....here's a Q for owners of USA Cirri and Millenniums....the OCD in me wants to know if it's only me.....the wiring on my Cirri all enter the PCB from the component side and in the case my Millenniums the wiring enters from the non component side, or the side of the PCB that faces you when you take the cover off. Basically the same PCB, same wiring. I like the way the Cirri are done. Looks cleaner to me. I think I'll rewire the Millenniums to match the Cirri. Opinions?
....the wiring on my Cirri all enter the PCB from the component side...... I think I'll rewire the Millenniums to match the Cirri. Opinions?
PeaveyStein LIVES!!!!!! Y'all may remember I picked up a 1st gen DynaBass 5 string a while back to use the neck on a 2nd gen DynaBass 5 string whose neck had developed a twist. The neckless, headless corpse of the 1st gen laying around bothered me. The paint is really rough and bubbled in some areas but everything was there and worked. Well, I picked up a left hand Foundation 4 string neck that had the front of the peghead veneered and put this together. Swapped the bridge and had to shim the neck pocket 1/16" on each side. Converted some ultra-light tuners to work on the "wrong" side. Need to put some fret markers on the wrong edge of the neck, too. Plays and sounds like it should. Strung BEAD. Is this the first reverse peghead Peavey bass???????????????
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Oh, and why did you have to change the bridge?
It was a 5 string and had a 5 string bridge.
With the proper technique and a good solder sucker those wires back right out, pretinned and ready to go. Another pass with the sucker clears the holes. The lands on these boards are very well made and none even gave a hint of lifting. It took about an hour, start to finish, including replacing the battery connectors. They were hacked in by an earlier repair. The hardest part is getting the pots set flat into their holes without any of the wiring getting in the way. The jack wiring also needed to be routed so it wasn't bunched up around the jack and eventually broken by movement during plug insertion.I thing you're going to find that trimming, stripping, twisting and tinning all those little wires so they will go through the small holes in the PCB a pain. And clearing all the holes of solder without lifting the pads.........But ya gots to do what ya gots to do.
I've had this 1992 Fury for a couple weeks now.
Pulled the neck off yesterday and it was pretty obvious that the neck has never been taken off.
I am a bit confused about what I found though... in the neck pocket there is a date stamp from April 1981..!!
Is there any possible way that the body was kicking around at the factory for ten years before being put through production?