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U.S. Peavey Club

There is allot going on in the thread today but after a few hours of playing the t40 (old strings still) I can conclude I should have bit the bullet and got one allot earlier. The neck is super, nicely between a fury and precision so it's not much of a switch for me. Feels very natural. Puts the fender to shame with its sturdyness and supple neck.luckily she has been cared for previously. As far as I can tell with old strings pbass tone is close enough for me. #betterlatethannever
 
i mean, all the way placed by the neck?

also which was the last us model?
I think 2000 was the last year, there was a Foundation 2000 model released.

Pickup positions are 700mm from the nut to centre of neck pickup ( imaginary 29th fret)
800mm to centre of bridge pickup (imaginary 46th fret)

The Jeff Berlin Palaedium model has wide spaced pickups 680mm to centre of neck ( 26th fret) and 810mm centre of bridge ( 48th fret)
 
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I should have bit the bullet and got one allot earlier. The neck is super, nicely between a fury and precision so it's not much of a switch for me. Feels very natural. Puts the fender to shame with its sturdyness and supple neck.luckily she has been cared for previously.
I'd luv to tonally A/B our twins, your maple board vs my rosewood, to quell my overt interest in possible differences.
yep, compared to a Fender the T series in general just stomps the competition except for the few most outstanding examples by Leo. the Peavey is substantial, have fun with all the knobs and options!
 
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So I went to adjust the truss rod on my new T20-FL - and I don’t think the truss rod was ever touched on this bass. My big problem is that the rod is set down far enough in there that I can’t get my Gibson 5/16 truss rod tool onto the nut. The only thing I can think to do is to get a 5/16 socket and probably end up grinding the outside diameter down until I can get onto the nut. Has anyone else ran into this issue? Any suggestions? My only gripe with the old us Peaveys are the truss rod access ...
 
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This is what I used recently on a T-40 with a damaged neck. I also chiseled some wood away, just to make it a bit easier.
 
I’ve never seen thin walled sockets before

Pawn shops are a good source for Craftsman and other thin wall 1/4" drive sockets. Get the thinnest wall you can find. I made this with pawn shop parts when I didn't have a good Peavey wrench. Cut off 5/16" Allen and the end of a 5/16" thinwall deep socket, Cost $2.00 and some hacjkaw work.

5-16 TR Tool.JPG
 
Pawn shops are a good source for Craftsman and other thin wall 1/4" drive sockets. Get the thinnest wall you can find. I made this with pawn shop parts when I didn't have a good Peavey wrench. Cut off 5/16" Allen and the end of a 5/16" thinwall deep socket, Cost $2.00 and some hacjkaw work.

View attachment 2977376

One could do the same thing by cutting off a section of the shaft of one of these screwdrivers, and using that with a 5/15" allen wrench:

HDX 3-1/4 in. 6-in-1 Screwdriver-120SD12D - The Home Depot
 
Slid a depth gauge down the TR cavity on a T20 and T45,both from 83,got 15mm from the timber to top of the TR nut.
Sadly my trusty old Gibson key only has 12mm till the shaft stops it going any further. I use either a 2"long thin wall socket or a 3/4" long dropped down the cavity onto the nut.

A real PITA, sometimes string trees need removed to get a straight line to the socket.

BTW the T20 and T45 were just the 2 nearest at hand with no TR covers.
 

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