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Using a 110 cab for a small club blues jam??

I've been told that even if an amp is rated for a 2 ohm load, it still isn't optimal. 2 ohms will create a significantly higher thermal load, which can - as I've been told - eventually even damage amps rated for it. I am not an engineer though, and this has all come to me word-of-mouth

Sounds like a question for @agedhorse, the man who designed the Neopak 3.5.......

In fact, the NeoPak is even somewhat over-designed for 2 ohms, it's a really stout power amp design with no expense spared on the output stage (lots of silicon). There will be no significant reduction in longevity operated at 2 ohms.

Note that the amp was originally released as a 4 ohm minimum rated load amp even though it was way over-designed, we (me included, I'm not passing this decision on others) did not recognize the demand for a smaller 2 ohm capable amp. Had we known this from the start, we wouldn't have adjusted the SMPS design metrics for the 2 ohm modification that we once offered at no charge on them. Can't do this anymore however as the parts are no longer available. I will still service them though.
 
I gig fairly regularly, and have larger things covered just fine with one of these two setups:


View attachment 2616830 View attachment 2616831

The desire to grab this 110 is rooted in impulse, curiosity, GAS (it sounded amazing) and bogus rationalization (I "need" it because I'm doing this sub thing for a blues jam). The reality is I don't need it, because not pictured above is a Carvin RL210 the will in fact cover this gig just fine. It's just that the Carvin is an utterly generic and uninspiring cab bought to fill a need a number of years ago.
I think you are covered!
 
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Most of the time I use a single 12 at a small bar where I am part of the house band for open mic night. But sometimes I use my baby 110 that has a mid/high-array. It works well for the blues, rock, and country mix we do with drummer and one,2, or 3 guitar players depending. It the bar was larger, though, I would increase the speakers. I am not familiar with the particular 10 asked about, but it is surprising - almost shocking - what a good 110 can do.
 
it is surprising - almost shocking - what a good 110 can do.

I agree - this one sounded amazing in the store, and I was really curious to see if it would be able to pull it off. Fate however, had other ideas.


By mid-morning yesterday I decided I would just go ahead and get the cab on my way to the Blues Jam (which was last night). I literally drive right by GC on the way to the club. If it handled the gig, great, if not, I'd have my 210 at the ready - and I'd return the 110 today.

Unfortunately, one of my teenager had a first week of school crisis and needed to vent - that chewed up about 30 minutes, eliminating the time I had allowed to swing through GC to pick up the cab.

My 210 did a fine job, and wasn't as uninspiring in that setting as it had been in my basement.
 
So I wandered into GC today and they had a DNA DNS110 used for $340.

If the GC in Richmond is where you saw that DNS-110, the very same cab is very likely sitting in my house right now, delivered this morning. The price had been reduced to $270 since you looked at it. Of course there was tax and $30 shipping to get it to Durham, NC, but still, I couldn't pass it up. I didn't even know it was 4 ohm until I read your post, but that's fine, I'll never use two cabs anyway. I mostly play small church gigs. The DNA web site only mentions an 8 ohm version. I wanted something lightweight to save my aging/aching back.

I really like it, but as I was trying it out I heard a very slight rattle on certain lower notes. Almost imperceptible, but definitely there. Being the DIY guy that I am, and not having to worry about voiding a warranty, I took off the grille and stuck my hand through the huge port to see if I could feel anything loose inside. Eventually I noticed that it was the port itself that was loose. So I sent an email off the DNA to see what they recommend to glue it back in place. If I don't hear anything from them I'll find an appropriate glue. The sound that comes out of it defies its size and weight. I'll try to remember to report back when I get it fixed and properly tested.
 
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I just checked the DC resistance of the cab, and it measures 5.9 ohms, so it must have been mislabeled as 4 ohm. I'm no expert, but I think 5.9 ohm DC resistance is about normal for an 8 ohm cab. The serial number matches the picture in JMacBass65's picture, so it must be the same cab.
 
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If the GC in Richmond is where you saw that DNS-110, the very same cab is very likely sitting in my house right now, delivered this morning. The price had been reduced to $270 since you looked at it. Of course there was tax and $30 shipping to get it to Durham, NC, but still, I couldn't pass it up. I didn't even know it was 4 ohm until I read your post, but that's fine, I'll never use two cabs anyway. I mostly play small church gigs. The DNA web site only mentions an 8 ohm version. I wanted something lightweight to save my aging/aching back.

I really like it, but as I was trying it out I heard a very slight rattle on certain lower notes. Almost imperceptible, but definitely there. Being the DIY guy that I am, and not having to worry about voiding a warranty, I took off the grille and stuck my hand through the huge port to see if I could feel anything loose inside. Eventually I noticed that it was the port itself that was loose. So I sent an email off the DNA to see what they recommend to glue it back in place. If I don't hear anything from them I'll find an appropriate glue. The sound that comes out of it defies its size and weight. I'll try to remember to report back when I get it fixed and properly tested.

I just checked the DC resistance of the cab, and it measures 5.9 ohms, so it must have been mislabeled as 4 ohm. I'm no expert, but I think 5.9 ohm DC resistance is about normal for an 8 ohm cab. The serial number matches the picture in JMacBass65's picture, so it must be the same cab.

Cool - it had been in the Fairfax, VA store. Glad someone here scooped it up, I think it sounded amazing for such a small package! Interesting about the ohms though.

Anyway - enjoy it, and report back after you have spend some time with it.
 
If the GC in Richmond is where you saw that DNS-110, the very same cab is very likely sitting in my house right now, delivered this morning. The price had been reduced to $270 since you looked at it. Of course there was tax and $30 shipping to get it to Durham, NC, but still, I couldn't pass it up. I didn't even know it was 4 ohm until I read your post, but that's fine, I'll never use two cabs anyway. I mostly play small church gigs. The DNA web site only mentions an 8 ohm version. I wanted something lightweight to save my aging/aching back.

I really like it, but as I was trying it out I heard a very slight rattle on certain lower notes. Almost imperceptible, but definitely there. Being the DIY guy that I am, and not having to worry about voiding a warranty, I took off the grille and stuck my hand through the huge port to see if I could feel anything loose inside. Eventually I noticed that it was the port itself that was loose. So I sent an email off the DNA to see what they recommend to glue it back in place. If I don't hear anything from them I'll find an appropriate glue. The sound that comes out of it defies its size and weight. I'll try to remember to report back when I get it fixed and properly tested.

Now that everyone's curiosity is up, we all urge you to pump as many watts into that beast and report back when it breaks. Then we'll all know how far it can hang!
 
I don't have all that many watts to run through it right now. I intended to buy a lightweight combo, but I saw this in the CG used gear listings and it completely changed my plans. I will report on it when I've had a chance to put it through its paces. No word yet from DNA about what they recommend for glue, but I think I can come up with something that will work. More later...
 
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You might ask DNA what driver is supposed to be in it? If you really have an 8 ohm cabinet, you should label it as such. The bigger danger is when somebody thinks they have an 8 ohm cabinet but really has a 4 ohm cabinet and they damage their amp. Troubleshooting these kinds of problems are very frustrating from the manufacturer's side of things.
 
Correct driver, mis-marked ID sticker. It's interesting, because I saw another used one for sale on the web site of a large Midwest instrument dealer that was marked the same way, 1400W 4 ohm, but DNA replied to my email inquiry that they are only made in 8 ohm. Maybe somebody put 2x10 stickers on the 1x10 cabs, hence the doubled wattage and halved impedance. Still, they should probably only say 350 watts, but what's a watt, anyway, other then a relative of James. Maybe they were 4x10 stickers, who knows. I notified the dealer about the possible error on the sticker and they acknowledged receipt of the information.

DNA also gave me some guidance on gluing the port back in, which was helpful. It's nice to get product support long after the warranty expires. It seems like there are quite a few passionate music gear builders who do that.
 
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Ampeg Portabass 110 with a 4ohm neo driver and adjustable tweeter. Sealed cabinet. Lousy sensitivity. Featherweight, something like 20lbs. I'd use my old Walter Woods 1200 watts at 4 ohms. That covered territory that a 110 shouldn't be able. Of course, at low volume, otherwise the driver would of been toast. It requires actually paying attention to what you are hearing and not getting excited about all the sound that's coming from that cheap little cabinet. Bass Players. Know Thy Gear's Limits. :-)
 
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