Using a crossover: 100hz? That's so high!

[ale29]

According to your playstyle, you may let the sub do the hard work maybe, but you're still gonna need the other cab to cover midrange.
Lowering furthermore the crossover frequency will only make your 2x10 cry and struggle to reproduce frequencies it was not meant to in the first place (not at high dB SPL, at least)

 

[Stumbo]

I'm looking for thumpy. Room shaking, dance style bump. Like that car that drives down the street and all you can hear is bass

Check out TBr fdeck Series 3 HPF-pre. It'll help dial out the mud below 35hz and then is adjustable from there, depending on the room, to keep mud created by the room out.

Might be just what you need.

Post some audio/video of your rig when you have a chance.

 

[dukeorock]

SO does the same then hold true? On a deadmau5 record or even a Rihanna record, are the fundamental frequencies still a small part of what you hear? Playing modern electronic dance and hip-hop is still new to me, so I'm trying to learn errythang I can...

Understood, brother! While there certainly is a lot of low end to the music you're describing, that's not strictly speaking 'where the action is.'

We make a couple cabs that are considered dub heaven...the fEARful 15/6 on top of a 15sub...several subby dub players swear by it...I've used the rig myself and it'll knock over walls if you're not careful BUT the sub is crossed over MUCH higher than what you're talking about there.

 

[colcifer]

Check out my "Resources" page (link in my sig). There's a link to an excellent article titled "What's In A Sound" by Gordon Reid which I suggest you read.

 

[dukeorock]

Check out TBr fdeck Series 3 HPF-pre. It'll help dial out the mud below 35hz and then is adjustable from there, depending on the room, to keep mud created by the room out.

Might be just what you need.

Post some audio/video of your rig when you have a chance.

I think that suggestion, though good, may just muddy the waters in the short term...the OP wants to know how low frequencies work in the first place, which is a very valuable thing to learn...I agree that the fDeck is a great piece of gear, but it may stray from the topic a bit...?

 

[ArturoOsito]

SWEET thanks Colcifer, I'll read that right meow. And Duke, those cabs you mentioned sound very interesting...

 

[1958Bassman]

Then why not just send everything to the 18, and skip the crossover and 2x10?

Because 18" speakers suck for mid-bass, which is where all of the definition comes from.

 

[Tractorr]

We make a couple cabs that are considered dub heaven...the fEARful 15/6 on top of a 15sub...several subby dub players swear by it...I've used the rig myself and it'll knock over walls if you're not careful BUT the sub is crossed over MUCH higher than what you're talking about there.

Hmm, this is something I have been wondering about.

Two things:
1: What is the the point of using a 15/6 if you are going to have a crossover point above 100Hz? It just seems like a 3015LF is over kill at that point.

2: Is that stack 4 ohms?

 

[fdeck]

Hmm, this is something I have been wondering about.

Two things:
1: What is the the point of using a 15/6 if you are going to have a crossover point above 100Hz? It just seems like a 3015LF is over kill at that point.

Power handling. At 100Hz, the 6"er won't be long for this world. The preferable x-over point is when beaming begins to kick in.

 

[Tractorr]

Power handling. At 100Hz, the 6"er won't be long for this world. The preferable x-over point is when beaming begins to kick in.

I am not sure if I have the Greenboy sub concept down. Duke is making it sound like the sub itself has a crossover before getting to the 15/6 like in a home stereo. Again maybe I am misunderstanding how the Greenboy sub works.

 

[Passinwind]

I am not sure if I have the Greenboy sub concept down. Duke is making it sound like the sub itself has a crossover before getting to the 15/6 like in a home stereo. Again maybe I am misunderstanding how the Greenboy sub works.

Both 15s are crossed at the same frequency. Don't think of it as a sub, think of it as a 15/15/6. And yes, the stack will be 4 ohms nominal.

 

[Tractorr]

Both 15s are crossed at the same frequency. Don't think of it as a sub, think of it as a 15/15/6. And yes, the stack will be 4 ohms nominal.

Cool, got it

 

[dukeorock]

Passinwind beat me to it

Though the 15sub is rightfully more of an 'extension' than a true sub in the home hifi sense, the box dimensions and tuning are meant to accentuate lows and do so very well

 

[ArturoOsito]

Is there any difference whatsoever between a 1515/66 and a 15/6 with a 15 sub?

 

[dukeorock]

Is there any difference whatsoever between a 1515/66 and a 15/6 with a 15 sub?

Yes. The 1515/66 has two 6" mid drivers.

I have been able to put a 1515/66 right next to a 15/6-15sub. Use the same amp and settings and a/b the two and you'll find...

The 15/6-15sub will sound bassier and may appear to have more 'girth.' the 1515/66 will be more articulate. With some eq, you can make them sound fairly similar though

 

[jungleheat]

Yes, even if you pretty much want an "all bass" sound with lots of low frequencies, if you want any definition at all to your tone (you do), a "high" cab is pretty much non negotiable. And yes, a X-O point above 100Hz is probably better too, to let the 10s breathe a little more (unless you want them really pushed with lows/low mids). Maybe up towards 150 or 200, possibly even higher depending on the exact sound and level you are looking for. You really just have to experiment with different EQ and X-O settings until you find what works for you.

I think the idea would be to find the place in the frequency spectrum where frequencies start getting harder for the 18 than they are for the 10s (and vice versa), and stick the X-O point right about there. You want them to both be working at 30-50% during "normal" operation so that you have some headroom for louder sections. At any rate, you want them to both be working at about the same capacity, so you don't have to worry about blowing one or the other.

 

[CL400Peavey]

Yes. The 1515/66 has two 6" mid drivers.

I have been able to put a 1515/66 right next to a 15/6-15sub. Use the same amp and settings and a/b the two and you'll find...

The 15/6-15sub will sound bassier and may appear to have more 'girth.' the 1515/66 will be more articulate. With some eq, you can make them sound fairly similar though

+1

The '66 doesnt have less low end, it had more mids with the same settings. That 18sound mid driver is a little beast though. You can definitely push it to keep up with a pair of 3015LF's.