Don't think that the DI circuit has much too it. Bad solder joint at the jack maybe? or maybe the cap going between the input jack to the DI is bad?
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Whoa......this price may be too good to be true!
Basso elettrico Wal - Strumenti Musicali In vendita a Napoli
Basso elettrico Wal - Strumenti Musicali In vendita a Napoli
Do you mean that ceramic capacitor? Can they go bad?
Does anyone have a good, close-up picture of the cavity where the wires connect to the input and xlr? One time I was trying to tighten my input jack (it was loose) and I broke the solder for the capacitor. I resoldered it, but it was hard to see exactly where it was before it broke (it broke before I opened the cabinet). Tightening up the input jack is rather difficult on Wals, I think.
Yes, it's not likely that they'll go bad but if one of leads of the cap is touching something else or if dabs of solder is touching another point, you might have some issues.
I can see where it's attached on the left, to the ones with no wires on it, but is that attached to the one with the blue wire, or a different one? Thanks!
I've seen so many gorgeous, hardly blemished, Wal's here— so I'd thought I'd show what "chainsaw" hands do to one over a 17 year period. It still works beautifully. I ordered it back in 1997 and got it almost a year later. I can't find my serial number on the Wal database however (W25896).
I'd actually like to replace the ABS plastic. But I don't believe one can w/o replacing the whole unit?
The scratches above the neck pickup are from metal picks.
Straight on shot of pick and finger wear.
End of head stock are teeth marks. Mine.
Belt buckle.
Electronics still going strong.
I do wish I wouldn't of wrote on it, WAY back in the day, but I could never remember the trimpot functions. Until I found the original brochure that came with it in the next pic.
My goddamn dog.
. . . So there you go! The "mint" in mint condition is of no value to me, personally. Simply, playing your heart out until your fingers don't want it anymore and your heart has had it's fill is.
I'd actually like to replace the ABS plastic. But I don't believe one can w/o replacing the whole unit?
The scratches above the neck pickup are from metal picks.
Straight on shot of pick and finger wear.
End of head stock are teeth marks. Mine.
Belt buckle.
Electronics still going strong.
I do wish I wouldn't of wrote on it, WAY back in the day, but I could never remember the trimpot functions. Until I found the original brochure that came with it in the next pic.
My goddamn dog.
. . . So there you go! The "mint" in mint condition is of no value to me, personally. Simply, playing your heart out until your fingers don't want it anymore and your heart has had it's fill is.
Dude I'm really glad you're on this forum, I've been a huge fan of your stuff since I found it on YouTube a few years ago. Really cool music!
I'm grateful for that, thank you. This place is fun. I don't know what took me so long.
To help out my fellow Wal-nuts just wanted to document this:
So over the weekend i made it a point to work on my Wal preamp on my 89 Mk I Honduras Bass. a couple days ago i was trying out a few things and had it tuned to drop C. when i was playing it, the low C sounded like crap. to make sure it wasn't my rig or the setup, i grabbed my Black Mk I and gave it the same setup and it sounded great! Being an '89, it actually put it at the mark where it should be done anyways.
Here are a couple before pics.
Here is the old vs new:
just a note that the old is a 4.7 uF 25V electrolytic capacitor.
i replaced it with (2) 4.7 uF 35 V electrolytic capator - which Paul currently uses on all the new builds.
Here is a pic of the finished install:
So in summary, just wanted to post pics for those who have older Wals (80s-early 90s) since this will need to be done eventually, since aluminum electrolytic caps do have a load/shelf life. You can tell it NEEDS to be done if you have the following:
the cap show sign of it detoriating/aging
the sound of the bass doesn't sound like it should
your getting weird popping sound (reported by another TB member)
its also a good idea to do it as preventative work (Caca De Kick), since it will eventually deteriorate/fail (you don't this to happen and muck up your PCB)
if you are going to attempt this yourself, here is a nice tutorial i had book marked and used for reference back in my hay days at school.
if you feel at all uncomfortable doing it, PLEASE get the work done by a professional.....if ya mess up i think Paul charges £50.00 -£75.00 for preamp repairs.
So over the weekend i made it a point to work on my Wal preamp on my 89 Mk I Honduras Bass. a couple days ago i was trying out a few things and had it tuned to drop C. when i was playing it, the low C sounded like crap. to make sure it wasn't my rig or the setup, i grabbed my Black Mk I and gave it the same setup and it sounded great! Being an '89, it actually put it at the mark where it should be done anyways.
Here are a couple before pics.
Here is the old vs new:
just a note that the old is a 4.7 uF 25V electrolytic capacitor.
i replaced it with (2) 4.7 uF 35 V electrolytic capator - which Paul currently uses on all the new builds.
Here is a pic of the finished install:
So in summary, just wanted to post pics for those who have older Wals (80s-early 90s) since this will need to be done eventually, since aluminum electrolytic caps do have a load/shelf life. You can tell it NEEDS to be done if you have the following:
the cap show sign of it detoriating/aging
the sound of the bass doesn't sound like it should
your getting weird popping sound (reported by another TB member)
its also a good idea to do it as preventative work (Caca De Kick), since it will eventually deteriorate/fail (you don't this to happen and muck up your PCB)
if you are going to attempt this yourself, here is a nice tutorial i had book marked and used for reference back in my hay days at school.
if you feel at all uncomfortable doing it, PLEASE get the work done by a professional.....if ya mess up i think Paul charges £50.00 -£75.00 for preamp repairs.
first time i watched it, i thought a scene from the walking dead would play out.....
I dug those videos on YouTube a while ago. Always thought it was a great vibe.
To help out my fellow Wal-nuts just wanted to document this:
So over the weekend i made it a point to work on my Wal preamp on my 89 Mk I Honduras Bass. a couple days ago i was trying out a few things and had it tuned to drop C. when i was playing it, the low C sounded like crap. to make sure it wasn't my rig or the setup, i grabbed my Black Mk I and gave it the same setup and it sounded great! Being an '89, it actually put it at the mark where it should be done anyways.
Here are a couple before pics.
Here is the old vs new:
just a note that the old is a 4.7 uF 25V electrolytic capacitor.
i replaced it with (2) 4.7 uF 35 V electrolytic capator - which Paul currently uses on all the new builds.
Here is a pic of the finished install:
So in summary, just wanted to post pics for those who have older Wals (80s-early 90s) since this will need to be done eventually, since aluminum electrolytic caps do have a load/shelf life. You can tell it NEEDS to be done if you have the following:
the cap show sign of it detoriating/aging
the sound of the bass doesn't sound like it should
your getting weird popping sound (reported by another TB member)
its also a good idea to do it as preventative work (Caca De Kick), since it will eventually deteriorate/fail (you don't this to happen and muck up your PCB)
if you are going to attempt this yourself, here is a nice tutorial i had book marked and used for reference back in my hay days at school.
if you feel at all uncomfortable doing it, PLEASE get the work done by a professional.....if ya mess up i think Paul charges £50.00 -£75.00 for preamp repairs.
The future tells me, you're going to be a handy guy to have around.
