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Wal Bass Club.

Was finally able to get some recording done recently with the Mk1, unsurprisingly it sounds fantastic through the Orange AD200, Thunderverb 200 and Terror Bass 1000 it got put through for pedal demo's for pedalsandeffects.com. Will post links to vids once they are up and approved! Thanks for all of your help everyone

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Probably would vary from company to company
But on average I think it's about $300?

sounds about right....could be more or less depending if you want to insure the package too. However, there are some couriers in UK that won't insure musical instruments or have a 'cap' on how much it can be insured.
 
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sounds about right....could be more or less depending if you want to insure the package too. However, there are some couriers in UK that won't insure musical instruments or have a 'cap' on how much it can be insured.

Shipping varies based on a lot of different things such as size, weight, speed, insurance, distance, air/land delivery, etc. I think the one I had shipped from BassDirect in the UK to Canada cost £80, Jan's bass shipped to the U.S. I think was about $270, Oz's bass ended up being $536 but that was a saturday next day fully insured air mail delivery.
 
As far as I saw, Midge still had it. There was a youtube video of him in his studio just a short while ago, and the MkI was hanging on the wall behind him.
On the facebook page, other folks said originally that bass was slated to have been auctioned off way back in the day, but seemed it never did.
Also, I believe story says that while that bass is on the recording, it was played by Midge on tape, and John only used it for filming the video.
 
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Hey guys, I have always taken my basses into shops for setups but I am sick of paying for it and am ready to start doping all my setups at home. I got a nice little kit I saw in bassplayer magazine thats got all the tools for measurements and everything else you would ever need. Probably more than I will ever use haha. Anyways, I have never done any setups on my basses besides a few tweaks to the bridge. Never got into truss rod stuff or anything unless it was one of my cheaper basses. Just looking for some tips on setting a wal up the right way from some fellow wal owners. Thanks guys!

Mike
 
Here it is again!!!!

Bass-ic Setup of a Wal
Originally Posted by Paul H@electricwood

The setting up of basses can be very different from player to player but we
do have some starting points/guidelines that may help you:

Neck relief - measured by fretting at both the 1st and 21st frets to create a straight edge with the string - you may want to use a capo to hold the 1st fret down to help you with this. Relief can now be checked by looking at the gap between the top of the 8th fret and the bottom of the string on both
the E and G strings - anywhere from 0.3mm(business card thickness) to 0.8mm(credit card thickness) approx is acceptable depending on your preference.

Nut height - this will be affected by the neck relief but should ideally be as low as possible without buzzing when playing the open string. Compare the
string height over the 1st fret when played open with the height above the 2nd fret when fretting the 1st fret. It should be just very slightly higher. If the nut is too high, it will not only feel harder to play but also not play in tune. If too low it will rattle when playing open strings.

String height(action) - if both the above are set, the final action can now be set. This is measured from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the E and G strings. An low to medium action would measure 2mm-2.6mm on the E
string and 1.6mm-2.1mm on the G string approx. The action should taper from E to G so as the strings get lighter to action becomes slightly lower.

Pickup heights - individual pole pieces for the E and G strings should be set just proud of the pickup cover. The A and D string pole pieces slightly higher to follow the camber of the strings you have set. The overall pickup
heights are measured whilst holding down(fretting) the E and G strings at the 21fret. The distance between the top of the pickup pole piece and the
bottom of the string should be 6mm on the E string and 5.5mm on the G string approx.

Raising the pole piece height will not only increase the volume of that particular string but also give a more compressed darker sound - lowering gives a brighter more open sound with less volume.

All the adjustments above affect each other plus fret condition and of course playing style need to be taken into account so some experimentation may be needed. Hope the info helps and let me know how you get on.
 
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If you've had your basses setup before, then it will be easy learning to maintaining their setups if it was already done to your liking. I suggest getting comfortable with learning to maintain this way before jumping in the deep end on a purchased of a used bass that seemed like it was owned by Jamerson.
The one big piece of advice I'll give about truss rods is never twist on the truss nut to pull the neck into straightness. That puts lots of strain on the truss anchor nut of any brand of bass.
Use your free hand to flex the neck into the position you want to be, then tighten the nut to lock it in place. I set the headstock on my shoe so I can sight down the edge of the neck while I set the straightness, and use my knee on the back of the neck to push where I want it, then I tighten the nut down (this is usually the extreme setup example where I bought a new/used bass). Usually seasonal adjustments I can flex the neck enough by hand with the bass laying flat on my workbench.
 
Wow thanks guys! Thats more info than I need haha. I cant wait to get it all set up and ready to go. I will have to post some Wal pics from the gig!

also since you'll be doing your own setups and everything, it's a good thing to at least clean up and maintain your bass (wax'ing the body, cleaning up grime off the fretboard and any build up, oil'ing the fretboard, and polishing the frets, etc).

this kit works pretty welll!!!

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