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Wal Bass Club.

I'm pretty sure the wax is to seal microphonics out of the coils themselves, and what you're finding on the poles is just residual
@Toolmybass thanks for the info. Gentlemen, bare with my line of inquisitiveness for a sec: @Caca de Kick I'm aware of microphonic iso. And was thinking about the residual too. So, when I peered down through the bobbins and the threaded spacers with a magnifying glass, the holes appeared 100% sealed from the coils. How could wax permeate through to get into the slug threads?
So I thought: Maybe the slugs were lightly dipped in paraffin, too, ensuring against additional rogue vibration, while also serving to keep the poles stationary as a precautionary redundancy? Any thoughts? One slugs goes in quite easily and I want to avoid any slippage from my heavy handedness. All my saddles used to bottom out on the side closest to me from playing so hard, until a guitar buddy told me about the nail polish drop trick.

I've emailed Paul to see what he has to say, but I wanted to check with you all and your experience with working and tweaking them. I'll report back. Peace.
 
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I’ll be honest, I have no clue. I just saw a premium opening for a joke. I’m sure @Caca de Kick should have some advice. I have never messed with the poles on my bass.
No worries, my friend! I just wanna do it right. I have the pickup springs compressed almost as low as they'll go and some of the poles recessed just shy below the bobbin. If not, the signal is too hot for how I play. And my master volume is at 75%. Just trying to catch up w/ all the techie stuff :thumbsup:
 
Once you set the height of your saddle; you put a small, single drop over the allen (hex) head. When it dries, it hardens and keeps the saddle from moving down. It's easily removable (via nail polish remover) if you ever need to change it again. (Some people like super glue, but I think it's messier because it tends to be thinner and stickier, and therefore, not as controllable)
 
Once you set the height of your saddle; you put a small, single drop over the allen (hex) head. When it dries, it hardens and keeps the saddle from moving down. It's easily removable (via nail polish remover) if you ever need to change it again. (Some people like super glue, but I think it's messier because it tends to be thinner and stickier, and therefore, not as controllable)

You can use nail polish as a thread locker aka a very mild 'loctite'. You can use white school glue too, Ive seen repair guys use wax too. Its easy to still move screws of need be. If you actually use Loctite on these dinky little screws you'll never get them to move.

Makes perfect sense. Thank you for the info.
 
No worries, my friend! I just wanna do it right. I have the pickup springs compressed almost as low as they'll go and some of the poles recessed just shy below the bobbin. If not, the signal is too hot for how I play. And my master volume is at 75%. Just trying to catch up w/ all the techie stuff :thumbsup:

If you are finding the bass “too hot” you can adjust the output from witin the control cavity.
The Master Output is the small blue square with a white center that is slotted. Its the closest one to your battery.
This will allow you to reset your pup and pole heights back to factory “recommendation” specs and then adj to taste with the output turned down.
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Before and After shots...
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55AB5AC2-9AFF-4EBE-9B6E-EE1AFEE794EA.jpeg


I can not believe how comfortable this bass feels... 8.2 lbs feels almost like nothing, especially when your first impression of a Wal was a 12 lb shedua six string. I play my mk1 a lot.. and I have spent some time with a 4 string Mk2, as well as a five string Mk2. This 4 string Mk3 was the final version I had left to try and spend some time with. Kind of speechless to say the least.
 
Before and After shots...View attachment 3354600View attachment 3354602

I can not believe how comfortable this bass feels... 8.2 lbs feels almost like nothing, especially when your first impression of a Wal was a 12 lb shedua six string. I play my mk1 a lot.. and I have spent some time with a 4 string Mk2, as well as a five string Mk2. This 4 string Mk3 was the final version I had left to try and spend some time with. Kind of speechless to say the least.
Love that burst....annnd I'm a black hardware fan too. Love it.
 
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Bass Direct has had a few Wals in this week, the first two flew out in hours at some pretty high prices!
Now they posted a newer 5 string at 7-Large.... 7 Large! (=9300 US)

I'm sure interested to see if a Fiver sells for more than a Mk2 4 banger which is typically the top of the pyramid.

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Chef, you missed your chance, you could have bought it 'cheaper' before it went to consignment.
 
Bass Direct has had a few Wals in this week, the first two flew out in hours at some pretty high prices!
Now they posted a newer 5 string at 7-Large.... 7 Large! (=9300 US)

I'm sure interested to see if a Fiver sells for more than a Mk2 4 banger which is typically the top of the pyramid.

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Chef, you missed your chance, you could have bought it 'cheaper' before it went to consignment.
I won’t be surprised if that sells within a couple days honestly. With the increase in prices for new Wals+ the long wait time...used prices have just gotten crazy and people are willing to pay it.
 
Bass Direct has had a few Wals in this week, the first two flew out in hours at some pretty high prices!
Now they posted a newer 5 string at 7-Large.... 7 Large! (=9300 US)

I'm sure interested to see if a Fiver sells for more than a Mk2 4 banger which is typically the top of the pyramid.

Invalid Link Removed

Chef, you missed your chance, you could have bought it 'cheaper' before it went to consignment.
Ya know what surprises me is the massive difference in MK1 prices. I saw that MK1 fretless you had posted about on Facebook and they’re only asking roughly $6,200. I understand part of it is that we are talking a 1988 vs a 2018 but sheesh...3 grand in price difference is massive.