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Warmoth Gecko owner's club

#203
Hello fellow Geckonians!
I just received my medium 5 body.
Flamed maple on mahogany. Bengal Burst.
Seymour Duncan Musicman pup in the "sweet spot".
Hipshot A.
Looking forward to playing this beauty.

Gecko Med 5.jpg
 
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#204
Smorg said:
Hello fellow Geckonians!
I just received my medium 5 body.
Flamed maple on mahogany. Bengal Burst.
Seymour Duncan Musicman pup in the "sweet spot".
Hipshot A.
Looking forward to playing this beauty.
Click to expand...

Wow, nice finish and gorgeous wood! Tell us about the neck?

Welcome to the club. (Have I forgotten any new members so far? I don't recall...)

#31 - Smorg
 
#205
I've considered putting together a Gecko-6 to use as a backup to my main 6-string bass. I have zero experience putting a bass together from the ground up though.

Can anyone tell me if putting together a Gecko for a complete beginner is do-able?

I do know a local guy I can pay to complete the more crucial parts of the project, but I figure the more I can complete myself, the lower cost of the instrument.

I have a good idea for the woods, pickups, electronics, and hardware I want as I'll be using my main bass' specs as my reference.


Nice collection of basses to everyone who's posted their pictures!

Thanks in advance
 
#206
Arthur U. Poon said:
I've considered putting together a Gecko-6 to use as a backup to my main 6-string bass. I have zero experience putting a bass together from the ground up though.

Can anyone tell me if putting together a Gecko for a complete beginner is do-able?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's totally possible. That's how I got started. There are all sorts of online references that you can use for the more tricky parts, such as installing pickups and electronics. If you choose to use an active pre-amp, then most pre-amps will include detailed instructions on how to get everything connected. (Audere is a great example.)

A few tips to get started:
  1. Learn how to drill pilot holes: slowly, safely, carefully and accurately. If you have a drill press it can be easier, but it's not necessary. This comes in handy in various places, such as the holes for the tuner screws, pickup screws and strap nuts (or strap locks).
  2. Plan out your pickup(s), controls and electronics. Plan on changing pickups once more after you get the first version installed and tested, just in case you don't like the tone or want something different. If swapping frequently is your destiny, consider using screw terminals (instead of solder) to make replacement easier later on.
  3. Take your time when it comes to shielding the pickup cavity. Measure twice, cut once. Plan on buying extra adhesive-backed copper so you can rip it out and replace it, if the first application doesn't look neat enough. (My first attempt was ugly!) Alternately, consider using the conductive paint that many luthiers use these days.
  4. Use the Planet Waves gold-plated jacks that Warmoth sells. They are very high quality and will last longer than most other jacks, even after repeated use. These need a 7/8" side jack hole, and a cover plate (either football-shaped or square). Buy a few extra, just in case.
Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask more questions!
 
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#207
tubby.twins said:
Yes, it's totally possible. That's how I got started. There are all sorts of online references that you can use for the more tricky parts, such as installing pickups and electronics. If you choose to use an active pre-amp, then most pre-amps will include detailed instructions on how to get everything connected. (Audere is a great example.)

A few tips to get started:
  1. Learn how to drill pilot holes: slowly, safely, carefully and accurately. If you have a drill press it can be easier, but it's not necessary. This comes in handy in various places, such as the holes for the tuner screws, pickup screws and strap nuts (or strap locks).
  2. Plan out your pickup(s), controls and electronics. Plan on changing pickups once more after you get the first version installed and tested, just in case you don't like the tone or want something different. If swapping frequently is your destiny, consider using screw terminals (instead of solder) to make replacement easier later on.
  3. Take your time when it comes to shielding the pickup cavity. Measure twice, cut once. Plan on buying extra adhesive-backed copper so you can rip it out and replace it, if the first application doesn't look neat enough. (My first attempt was ugly!) Alternately, consider using the conductive paint that many luthiers use these days.
  4. Use the Planet Waves gold-plated jacks that Warmoth sells. They are very high quality and will last longer than most other jacks, even after repeated use. These need a 7/8" side jack hole, and a cover plate (either football-shaped or square). Buy a few extra, just in case.
Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask more questions!
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the very detailed reply, Tubby Twins! I really appreciate it!!
 
#208
I am interseted in buying a used Gecko. If any of you owners are interested in moving yours please PM me with the details. I would prefer a Wenge neck but am open to all woods. Definitely looking for a two pickup model and also definitely want an active pre.

Thanks
 
#211
for those of you with 5 string small gecko necks, do you notice much actual stretching of the hand from going back and forth between the 35 inch scale of the gecko to a 34 inch scale other bass?

I want a gecko, but the scale throws me off. In other parts of the forum people talk about the build making 35 inch scale not really that much different than 34.

What are your experiences?
 
#212
kkaarrll said:
for those of you with 5 string small gecko necks, do you notice much actual stretching of the hand from going back and forth between the 35 inch scale of the gecko to a 34 inch scale other bass?

I want a gecko, but the scale throws me off. In other parts of the forum people talk about the build making 35 inch scale not really that much different than 34.

What are your experiences?
Click to expand...

Absolutely no difference in my experience. The difference in distance from 1st to 3rd fret is only 2.6mm. I play a Gecko Medium 5, but it makes no difference to me.
 
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#213
kkaarrll said:
for those of you with 5 string small gecko necks, do you notice much actual stretching of the hand from going back and forth between the 35 inch scale of the gecko to a 34 inch scale other bass?

I want a gecko, but the scale throws me off. In other parts of the forum people talk about the build making 35 inch scale not really that much different than 34.

What are your experiences?
Click to expand...
The only difference between the small, med and Wide are the string spacing. I've found my preference is for 34" scale as of late. I too am interested in trying a small spacing setup, but not interested in going all new doe to cost and poor resale value. If your in favor of a 34" scale you can always go G5 with a Deluxe 5 neck.
 
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#214
gpx1200 said:
im working on this one right now and plan to sell it when it's done wenge/bubinga neck, unique choice mac ebony FB, swamp ash body w/ ebony grain filler routed for a EMG 40P neck pickup and a MMTW in the sweet spot, 19mm spacing at the bridge(hipshot)
View attachment 828953
it will look like this one when it's done only fretted( I wanted twins)
View attachment 828954
Click to expand...

how did you like that mmtw?

also with the small gecko5 neck can one get 17mm or 17.5 mm string spacing?
if so, what bridge would you reccomend?
 
#215
kkaarrll said:
how did you like that mmtw?

also with the small gecko5 neck can one get 17mm or 17.5 mm string spacing?
if so, what bridge would you reccomend?
Click to expand...
I havn't played the fretted version yet(hopefully this week) but on the fretless the MM sounds great by itself but not blended with the P, I mostly play that bass with the blend set to full MM or full P, im goin to swap out the P for a 40J next time I change the strings
 
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