Warmoth Owners Club!!

[Bare Bass]

I ended up ordering the wrong neck in my first go-around before I consulted with someone here as well. @Doug Parent has built a few Deluxe 5's (and mine, he does great work) you may want to hit him up, he's got some good advice for Warmoth projects.

Thanks, but I've got a top-notch luthier 20 minutes away who's working on it. Just thought I'd ask here for a second opinion, but it looks like I'm stuck with 17.5, and I'm a long-standing 19mm/Fender guy. I guess I'll view it as an experiment. Who knows, maybe I'll like it? I'm also putting in a ramp to hide the fact that I changed my mind on the pickup routs. Live and learn, but the ramp might also be a mistake that turns into an opportunity . . .

 

[Doug Parent]

Thanks, I think the holes are already drilled though, so I might be stuck. Wish I would've consulted with you Warmoth kats more beforehand.

You can call Warmoth and ask them to hold off drilling those holes. If the order is pending there is no telling where the body may be in the process of being prepped for shipment.

 

[Doug Parent]

Thanks, but I've got a top-notch luthier 20 minutes away who's working on it. Just thought I'd ask here for a second opinion, but it looks like I'm stuck with 17.5, and I'm a long-standing 19mm/Fender guy. I guess I'll view it as an experiment. Who knows, maybe I'll like it? I'm also putting in a ramp to hide the fact that I changed my mind on the pickup routs. Live and learn, but the ramp might also be a mistake that turns into an opportunity . . .

If you get pickups that are designed around the 18mm spec a 17.5 bridge will still work you may just need to push the string saddles outward a tad to accommodate.

 

[Bare Bass]

You can call Warmoth and ask them to hold off drilling those holes. If the order is pending there is no telling where the body may be in the process of being prepped for shipment.

Thanks, I should've been clearer: the body and neck were delivered several months ago.

The pickup routs are fine for string-spacing, just routed too long (neck to bridge), for the wrong shape, but the ramp will cover it and actually enhance the aesthetics, I think, as it will match the Bocote neck. It's a Bocote on Wenge bass

My luthier is taking forever to assemble it. My Warmoth Z bass was ordered later and he finished it two months ago, but the G5 has tricky electronics--midi preamp, etc., and had to have new cavity routs made to accommodate them. I'll be sure to post here when it's done, hopefully some time this year . . .

 

[HalfManHalfBass]

Which 5 string Seymour Duncan pickups are you guys using? They do a 67mm front, and 70mm spaced back pickup now and with an 18mm bridge I'm hoping this lines up well.

Could anyone kind enough measure the outer string spacing from G-B over their front and bridge pickups to see if these are optimal?

Peace,

Rob.

 

[JGR]

Which 5 string Seymour Duncan pickups are you guys using? They do a 67mm front, and 70mm spaced back pickup now and with an 18mm bridge I'm hoping this lines up well.

Could anyone kind enough measure the outer string spacing from G-B over their front and bridge pickups to see if these are optimal?

Peace,

Rob.

67/70 set. Works fine with the Hipshot A.

 

[Doug Parent]

Hopefully this helps. Attached is a pdf download from Hipshot of their 5 string A style bridges. The size I used on this bass is the .728 As you can see all strings still have some lateral adjustment left on the bridge saddles and the string spacing does not force the B or G string too far towards the edge of the fingerboard. For my purposes I have found that a .687 bridge is the absolute minimum for the Warmoth Deluxe V, yet this is the only size that Warmoth will pre-drill for. I have brought this up various times with them to no avail. So when I build a bass I order it with the ground wire only. (they already pre-drill a center hole in the middle of the ground wire route) I use that same center hole as a reference point when I mount a bridge.

I think these sizes are correct.
.687 = 17.5mm spacing
.708 = 18mm
.728 = 18.5
.750 = 19mm

 

[JGR]

Hopefully this helps. Attached is a pdf download from Hipshot of their 5 string A style bridges. The size I used on this bass is the .728 As you can see all strings still have some lateral adjustment left on the bridge saddles and the string spacing does not force the B or G string too far towards the edge of the fingerboard. For my purposes I have found that a .687 bridge is the absolute minimum for the Warmoth Deluxe V, yet this is the only size that Warmoth will pre-drill for. I have brought this up various times with them to no avail. So when I build a bass I order it with the center hole and ground wire hole predrilled but no pre drilling for a Hipshot .687 pattern. I use the center hole Warmoth drills as a reference point when I mount a bridge.

I asked Warmoth if they would just drill just the center hole (and ground) for me and they refused. They are surprisingly inflexible and apparently inconsistent on some things. Totally agree that 17.5 as the standard doesn't make a lot of sense given the heel dimensions - 18 or 18.25 would be a lot better. I contemplated drilling my own bridge holes on my second build since I had the first one to use for proper location reference, but ultimately I had them do it since they were finishing the bodies and I wanted the string thu option. The 17.5 A bridge gets me to the right place spacing wise, but it would be nice not to have to run either end to the extremes.

I have the white J5 in the shop right now for some fretwork - I'm a bit bummed because there were a few frets on the D and G that were high to the point that the notes totally fret out. Two previous necks play pretty much perfect. Otherwise its a killer bass - should have in back from Philtone this week.

 

[Doug Parent]

I asked Warmoth if they would just drill just the center hole (and ground) for me and they refused. They are surprisingly inflexible and apparently inconsistent on some things. Totally agree that 17.5 as the standard doesn't make a lot of sense given the heel dimensions - 18 or 18.25 would be a lot better. I contemplated drilling my own bridge holes on my second build since I had the first one to use for proper location reference, but ultimately I had them do it since they were finishing the bodies and I wanted the string thu option. The 17.5 A bridge gets me to the right place spacing wise, but it would be nice not to have to run either end to the extremes.

I have the white J5 in the shop right now for some fretwork - I'm a bit bummed because there were a few frets on the D and G that were high to the point that the notes totally fret out. Two previous necks play pretty much perfect. Otherwise its a killer bass - should have in back from Philtone this week.

I just edited my post to reflect a mis-statement, you are correct Warmoth will not drill a center hole. I use the center hole THEY create when routing out the channel for the bridge ground wire.

 

[HalfManHalfBass]

After having received much great advice from the kind members here, (Doug Parent and JGR especially) I once again have a 5 string in my collection!

Although I still can't decide on either the pearloid scratchplate (which matches the blocked neck) or the 'stealthy, all-black' look!

The pickups are Nordstrand noiseless types and it has an 18mm string spacing. As I don't like active basses (unless absolutely necessary) it's totally passive and plays and sounds just like a good Jazz 5 should.

Despite my insistence to always use 35" scale fivers, this 34" with a 0.130 B string doesn't sound any the worse to me either.

Anyway, of course I want to immediately build another one, but apart from that, here it is!

Many thanks to all that helped!

Peace,

Rob.

 

[eaglemachine]

I'm currently doing a build. Here is the thread I started to show the progress:

Slow build Super PJ

 

[HalfManHalfBass]

I just remembered that I forgot to post this one too!

It's a Warmoth P bass body in swamp ash with purple frost paint. The pickup is a Nordstrand MM4 and although totally passive, the volume and tone control are both on CTS push / pull switches. I can have any combination of series or parallel humbucker or either half of the single coil settings - all totally noiseless.

The neck is maple with graphite rods and an ebony fretboard with jumbo 6100 stainless steel frets. Hipshot Ultralites and brass bridge.

I have a pair of real Stingrays, but even thought this is a passive bass, the difference in parallel mode is not all that considerable. Maybe it's just a little more scooped sounding than an active 'Ray, but the amp can adjust that if need be.

I know not everyone likes the egg-shaped Musicman scratchplates (especially on a P bass!) but IMO without it, it looks kind of strange and '80s-like' (to me!)

I really wanted a Spitfire tortoise pick guard and Mark really was super helpful with all my enquires. Unfortunately though, the space between the extended fretboard for the 21st fret and the top of the body wouldn't allow for a thick scratchplate -so here it is for now with a standard MM plate.

Peace,

Rob.

 

[iriegnome]

I have not seen this pop up in my feed for a while! Glad to see everyone still posting great Warmoth basses. As always if you would like a club number shoot me an pm

 

[gustobassman]

My new neck with the graphite rods arrived yesterday! It seems really light out of the box, that's what I was hoping for. There was nothing wrong with my other neck- I just wanted to lighten things up as much as possible. Same wood combo though, maple/pau ferro. Hopefully I didn't make a $300 mistake, lol! It's off to @Doug Parent tomorrow for a reshape, finish, and install. This color scheme with the Turquoise dots was my original plan when I started this build. I love the blocks, but I really dig the subtlety of the blue dots too!

Enough babble- crappy cell pics: old neck on top, new neck on bottom pic.

 

[iriegnome]

Welcome to a couple new members to the club!! Shoot me a PM if you would like a number, Thanks.. And remember, No Pic, it doesn't exist...
89 LeeNunn
90 HalfManHalfBas

 

[sheltjo6]

My Warmoth creations.

 

[kzr750r1]

Wow not often we have triplets... Not identical, but triplets none the less.

 

[Doug Parent]

My Warmoth creations.
View attachment 936689

I have the same illness

 

[JamWithEggs]

I absolutely love Warmoth! Fit, finish, breadth of choice, customer service all top-notch in my view! Here's a couple builds:

PB&J #00008 (P-Bass & Jazz Neck)

Warmoth Alder P-Bass in Gold-Top Gold
Status Graphite Jazz neck with Gotoh ResoLite machines
2Tek bridge
EMG P-HZ passive split-P PUP
CTS 250k volume/tone Pots
Switchcraft jack
Warmoth single-ply matte-black pickguard
Custom laser engraved logo neck-plate from LazrArt
Dunlop Dual Design strap buttons

WOW!!!!!!!!

 

[Kubicki Fan]

Hey, in 135 pages of this thread - spanning nearly a decade - I have not seen one complaint about mineral deposits staining a roasted maple neck. Has anyone else run into this problem?

I started a couple of builds and one of the necks has an ugly streak on the head stock, about two inches+ long. It is a $590 custom neck: Roasted maple/unique choice ebony finger board.

Warmoth neck - Roasted maple

• Kubicki Fan
• Sep 1, 2016
• warmoth neck

A little too well done... an ugly blight on an otherwise gorgeous neck.

Had I known my neck will feature such a blight I would have passed. If I were to sell the neck even the least fussy buyer would find the streak a reason to knock off a good chunk from the asking price. Warmoth guy says these things happen.