Warmoth Owners Club!!

[eastcoasteddie]

I’m getting SO close to ordering the neck and body from Warmoth, it might happen middle or end of January…but I just want to verify one thing…

Has it been confirmed that Warmoth’s “MM Sweet-Spot” is exactly in the Stingray pot?
I measured on my SR4 (before I sold it), that the center of the pickup (between the coils) is 4.5” to the E saddle on the bridge.

Can anyone confirm that?

 

[BlueTalon]

I’m getting SO close to ordering the neck and body from Warmoth, it might happen middle or end of January…but I just want to verify one thing…

Has it been confirmed that Warmoth’s “MM Sweet-Spot” is exactly in the Stingray pot?
I measured on my SR4 (before I sold it), that the center of the pickup (between the coils) is 4.5” to the E saddle on the bridge.

Can anyone confirm that?

What do you mean by "exactly"? If it was 1/8" off, would you care?

 

[eastcoasteddie]

What do you mean by "exactly"? If it was 1/8" off, would you care?

Well, if it was 1/2” off in either direction, it might go against what I want in this build…
So being more “exact” is better I think…

 

[BlueTalon]

Well, if it was 1/2” off in either direction, it might go against what I want in this build…
So being more “exact” is better I think…

A half inch off is probably fair to quibble about. To answer your earlier question, I have no idea how spot on it is. I just think that people tend to give pickup placement far too much credit for getting specific tones. As long as it's in the ballpark, it'll do fine.

 

[johnnynitro]

I know were talking different bass's. But I compared My Fender Pbass PU placement to my Warmouth Pbass. And they were both identical.

 

[J Posega]

I’m getting SO close to ordering the neck and body from Warmoth, it might happen middle or end of January…but I just want to verify one thing…

Has it been confirmed that Warmoth’s “MM Sweet-Spot” is exactly in the Stingray pot?
I measured on my SR4 (before I sold it), that the center of the pickup (between the coils) is 4.5” to the E saddle on the bridge.

Can anyone confirm that?

Measure from the nut or 12th fret to the pickup, which are fixed positions, rather than the bridge saddle, which is adjustable.

 

[gkbass13]

Should have 2 Warmoth J bass projects complete in the next few weeks. Just waiting on electronics for one of them. The 2 necks I had custom built are spectacular!

 

[JOME77]

I'm waiting on a Warmoth fretted neck for this one .....

I put it together about 18 years ago and it's spent the last 5-6 years in the case because I haven't been playing fretless much these days. I ordered a fretted (SS Vintage frets) maple medium Gecko neck with wenge fingerboard (no Gecko inlay), quilt maple headstock cap and graphite (in lieu of steel rods). Hoping to reduce the weight a bit. Should be here in a week or two based on estimated time build times (ordered Nov. 23). The bass has Bart Quad coil PU's, Bart 3-band pre, ABM Bridge and Gotoh tuners.

 

[BillyB_from_LZ]

I'm waiting on a Warmoth fretted neck for this one .....

View attachment 4917228

I put it together about 18 years ago and it's spent the last 5-6 years in the case because I haven't been playing fretless much these days. I ordered a fretted (SS Vintage frets) maple medium Gecko neck with wenge fingerboard (no Gecko inlay) and graphite (in lieu of steel rods). Hoping to reduce the weight a bit. Should be here in a week or two based on estimated time build times (ordered Nov. 23). The bass has Bart Quad coil PU's, Bart 3-band pre, ABM Bridge and Gotoh tuners.

Gorgeous!!

 

[BioDriver]

Looks like Warmoth slightly increased their finishing prices. Not surprised and it's not as egregious as others

 

[eastcoasteddie]

What do I need to know about Wenge necks?

In my infinite wisdom, and thinking about my soon-to-be-placed order…I started to change things up.

I was 99% sure I was going to go with a TobaccoBurst Ash body and Roasted Flame Maple neck.

As I sat with my morning coffee, that 1% uncertainty kicked in…

What if I go with just a Clear Ash body and a whompin’ Wenge neck?

I’ve always liked the contrast Natural Ash Corvette’s looked with a Wenge neck, like this guy:
Warwick FNA 5 String Bass 1998 Natural (Wenge Neck / Fingerboard, OHSC) | Reverb

Link Removed

My build will also have a single MM pickup like that bass…

my questions are:

How stable is Wenge?

How heavy is Wenge? With Wenge, would it be very wise to get graphite rods over steel?

What kind of tone would a Wenge neck deliver, compared to a maple neck?

What inlays look best with Wenge? Dots, blocks, or none at all?

Would it be just the baddest-assed Bass ever?

Or it doesn’t matter - just go with your original plan….

 

[Kitsapbass]

What do I need to know about Wenge necks?

In my infinite wisdom, and thinking about my soon-to-be-placed order…I started to change things up.

I was 99% sure I was going to go with a TobaccoBurst Ash body and Roasted Flame Maple neck.

As I sat with my morning coffee, that 1% uncertainty kicked in…

What if I go with just a Clear Ash body and a whompin’ Wenge neck?

I’ve always liked the contrast Natural Ash Corvette’s looked with a Wenge neck, like this guy:
Warwick FNA 5 String Bass 1998 Natural (Wenge Neck / Fingerboard, OHSC) | Reverb

Link Removed

My build will also have a single MM pickup like that bass…

my questions are:

How stable is Wenge?

How heavy is Wenge? With Wenge, would it be very wise to get graphite rods over steel?

What kind of tone would a Wenge neck deliver, compared to a maple neck?

What inlays look best with Wenge? Dots, blocks, or none at all?

Would it be just the baddest-assed Bass ever?

Or it doesn’t matter - just go with your original plan….

I have an 98 FNA 5 but the honey color.

I’ve adjusted my neck twice since I’ve owned it (bought it used in 08). Never needed to - neck is as stable as any I’ve ever had.

 

[BlueTalon]

How stable is Wenge?

How heavy is Wenge? With Wenge, would it be very wise to get graphite rods over steel?

What kind of tone would a Wenge neck deliver, compared to a maple neck?

What inlays look best with Wenge? Dots, blocks, or none at all?

A wenge neck would be awesome! But wenge can be heavy. If it was me, I'd get the slim taper with carbon rods, and put ultra light tuners on it. Wenge is stable IME. I have MOP dots on mine, and that looks fine. You could do blocks for greater effect.

One thing I do that's unusual is use fishing lure stickers as side/fret markers on basses where I have a hard time seeing the visual reference points on a dark stage environment. I fold the over the edge of the fretboard so they're half on the side, half on the front. They're designed to reflect light in low light conditions, and the adhesive is designed to hold in inhospitable environments. One such bass was my main player for 7-8 years, a Warmoth jazz with a wenge fretboard, the one currently in my avatar. Anyway, if I was having a wenge neck made, I might be tempted to just have side dots put on and leave the front alone, and put the stickers on from the very beginning.

 

[eastcoasteddie]

A wenge neck would be awesome! But wenge can be heavy. If it was me, I'd get the slim taper with carbon rods, and put ultra light tuners on it. Wenge is stable IME. I have MOP dots on mine, and that looks fine. You could do blocks for greater effect.

One thing I do that's unusual is use fishing lure stickers as side/fret markers on basses where I have a hard time seeing the visual reference points on a dark stage environment. I fold the over the edge of the fretboard so they're half on the side, half on the front. They're designed to reflect light in low light conditions, and the adhesive is designed to hold in inhospitable environments. One such bass was my main player for 7-8 years, a Warmoth jazz with a wenge fretboard, the one currently in my avatar. Anyway, if I was having a wenge neck made, I might be tempted to just have side dots put on and leave the front alone, and put the stickers on from the very beginning.

I’m actually doing a 5…they have just one Asymmetrical profile. I will be using Hipshot UltraLite tuners.
The biggest question is steel or graphite rods.
My main concern is Neck-Dive, and not the overall weight of the instrument.
I prefer my basses heavier than 9 lbs…that’s my low limit. Every bass I own is actually 10.5 or more, so I’m good with whatever it comes out to in the end. I just don’t want the neck to hit the ground…

 

[BioDriver]

<snip>

my questions are:

How stable is Wenge?
Extremely, IME

How heavy is Wenge? With Wenge, would it be very wise to get graphite rods over steel?
It can be very heavy; that's the price you pay for that stability. I'd go with the slim taper and graphite rods, equipped with ultralight tuners.

What kind of tone would a Wenge neck deliver, compared to a maple neck?
Warmer and darker. Not so much as rosewood, but close

What inlays look best with Wenge? Dots, blocks, or none at all?
Personally I don't like inlays on wenge; let the grain speak for itself!

Wenge is also an oily wood so it doesn't need finish, but you do need to treat it every so often. I got into the habit of oiling my Warwicks every 6ish months when I had them.

 

[CosmicRay]

Pending member here.....
I ordered a chambered J bass body and slim tapered J neck:

J Bass® Replacement Body
Construction
Chambered
Core Wood
Black Korina
Lam Top Wood
Black Korina
Right / Left Handed
Right-Handed
Control Cavity
Top Rout
Neck Pickup Rout
J Bass® Neck 4-String (3-5/8")
Neck Pickup Over-rout Options
No Over-rout (Use current rout)
Bridge Pickup Rout
J Bass® Bridge 4-String (3-3/4")
Jack Rout
None
Bridge Rout
Gotoh 201
Neck Pocket
4-Bolt Neck Pocket
Body Contours
Forearm Contour, Tummy Cut
Binding & Edge Decorations
Natural Masked Edges
Paint Category
Transparent
Top Color
Vintage Tint
Back Color
Vintage Tint
Satin or Gloss
Satin
Body Upgrades
Three Piece
--------------------------------
J Bass® Replacement Neck
Shaft Wood
Roasted Maple
Fretboard Wood
Indian Rosewood
Stiffening Rods
Standard Steel Rods
Nut Width
1-1/2" (38mm) J Bass®
Left or Right Handed
Right Handed
Neck Profile
Slim Taper
Number of Frets
21
Binding
Pearloid
Fret Size and Material
6230 - Vintage Small (Nickel)
Tuner Hole Size
Schaller BML 11/16" (17.5mm)
Inlay Shape
Blocks
Inlay Material
White Pearloid
Side Dots
Moon Glow Side Dots (3mm)
String Nut
GraphTech Black TUSQ XL - Standard Nut
Mounting Holes
Standard 4 Bolt
Finish
None

Hardware ready to go as soon as the neck & body arrive.

I'll post a pic of the bass when it's completed.

 

[JOME77]

I'm waiting on a Warmoth fretted neck for this one .....

View attachment 4917228

I put it together about 18 years ago and it's spent the last 5-6 years in the case because I haven't been playing fretless much these days. I ordered a fretted (SS Vintage frets) maple medium Gecko neck with wenge fingerboard (no Gecko inlay), quilt maple headstock cap and graphite (in lieu of steel rods). Hoping to reduce the weight a bit. Should be here in a week or two based on estimated time build times (ordered Nov. 23). The bass has Bart Quad coil PU's, Bart 3-band pre, ABM Bridge and Gotoh tuners.

The fretted neck arrived Friday and I was able to apply 6 coats of Tru Oil, finish cutting the nut and install the neck. Fit perfect and really setup great!

 

[bassclef112]

Pending member here.....
I ordered a chambered J bass body and slim tapered J neck:
J Bass® Replacement Body
Core Wood
Black Korina
Lam Top Wood
Black Korina

Beautiful! I have to ask what made you choose Black Korina? Not often selected these days, it's like between Alder and Mahogany, at least to me. I have a very early Warmoth Black Korina PJ with a Quilted Maple cap, Bird'seye Maple neck and I just love it. Enjoy that beauty!

 

[CosmicRay]

Beautiful! I have to ask what made you choose Black Korina? Not often selected these days, it's like between Alder and Mahogany, at least to me. I have a very early Warmoth Black Korina PJ with a Quilted Maple cap, Bird'seye Maple neck and I just love it. Enjoy that beauty!

Thanks! I was looking for the lightest J body I could find. Just happened they had a chambered body, Black Korina that was 4 lbs. 8 oz. And the grain was beautiful. I have a '74 J - natural blonde, maple neck, that I've played since '74. But it has to weigh close to 11 lbs. And feels like more during the second set. These days, I need something that isn't a boat anchor. Hopefully with the neck and hardware, the Warmoth will weigh half as much as the '74.
To be continued....

 

[bassclef112]

When I got my Warmoth bodies weight was not the issue it has become. My Black Limba P/J weighs in at 10.5 lbs (my Alder J is within a couple ounces).
Most of my basses are in that neighborhood. I'm used to them and can't imagine replacing any.
This kind of wt specific shopping is impressive. My lightest bass is a '75 P that comes in at just over 8 lbs. Go figure...
P.S. My BL P/J just sounds so warm and full. Band loves it.