It's clear satin, but I didn't do the finish, so don't have details. I don't think it's a factory finish though.
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Purchased a used warmoth body on ebay and added a TB purchased warmoth fretless neck. The neck is roasted maple and pau ferro (not sure the body wood very light but roasted) ... sounds great. Wired Dimarzio dp123 pickup straight to the jack. Neck is finished with linseed oil and body with Howard's wax and feed.
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Here is my older Warmoth of two. I had posted it in a new/old bass day thread several years ago, but let's get it into the Warmoth Owners' thread. I'll post the other bass this week- it dates from the late 2000's.
I bought the P/J body from Warmoth in 1989. Nice walnut with good figuring. It has multiple coats of Formby's low-gloss tung oil. I bought the current Warmoth J-bass neck in 2022. It is roasted maple with graphite bars and the slim taper profile, and is so comfortable to play!
The original Warmoth P neck on this bass was padauk with an ebony fingerboard. After a mishap at a rehearsal in 1996, the headstock cracked through the tuner holes. I reglued it at that time. I still have it, but was interested in replacing it with something that was a bit easier for me to play.
The pickups are EMG actives from 1986 with VVT controls. The bridge is a Hipshot Kickass. The bass is generally very bright. I've kept it strung with roundwounds. It does warm up nicely with tone rolloff. I consider it one of my more versatile instruments. It got played a lot in the 90's, less so in the 00's and 10's, but is seeing more use with the new neck in the last several years.
It's a heavy instrument. I wouldn't begin to play a three-set bar gig with it. Last time I did that was 35 years ago, and it about broke my shoulder!
I call it the "brown bass" ala Stanley, and love it. There's nothing like a bass you have that many years of history with.
I may take more pictures of this one to post. It's such a pretty bass.
I bought the P/J body from Warmoth in 1989. Nice walnut with good figuring. It has multiple coats of Formby's low-gloss tung oil. I bought the current Warmoth J-bass neck in 2022. It is roasted maple with graphite bars and the slim taper profile, and is so comfortable to play!
The original Warmoth P neck on this bass was padauk with an ebony fingerboard. After a mishap at a rehearsal in 1996, the headstock cracked through the tuner holes. I reglued it at that time. I still have it, but was interested in replacing it with something that was a bit easier for me to play.
The pickups are EMG actives from 1986 with VVT controls. The bridge is a Hipshot Kickass. The bass is generally very bright. I've kept it strung with roundwounds. It does warm up nicely with tone rolloff. I consider it one of my more versatile instruments. It got played a lot in the 90's, less so in the 00's and 10's, but is seeing more use with the new neck in the last several years.
It's a heavy instrument. I wouldn't begin to play a three-set bar gig with it. Last time I did that was 35 years ago, and it about broke my shoulder!
I call it the "brown bass" ala Stanley, and love it. There's nothing like a bass you have that many years of history with.
I may take more pictures of this one to post. It's such a pretty bass.
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This is my second Warmoth build. This is a medium scale(32” neck) with roasted swamp ash jazz body, wenge neck with ebony fretboard, SS vintage frets and dimarzio relentless passive jazz pickups.
deepestend
Commercial User
- Feb 21, 2003
- 6,249
- 8,171
- Disclosures
- Website and Social Media at Sadowsky
I wondered if that question would pop up. Funny you should ask because it was not at all what I was going for but wound up liking it after my initial disappointment. I used Feibings Royal Blue Pro Dye which was a deep blue on the roasted swamp ash BUT when I started my first of 15 layers of Tru-Oil it reacted like this. Later when I googled my results I learned that blue dye does this. Lesson learned but I eventually accepted it and like it now…
Well, not exactly blue, but not a bad look.
Tru-Oil is "ambering" which means it lets through red and green but blocks blue somewhat.
Tru-Oil is "ambering" which means it lets through red and green but blocks blue somewhat.
Depending on the light it can be a real turquoise / green’ish color, who knew!
I have a submission from an earlier build here:
I will post my newest build though, Thanks for the request!
deepestend
Commercial User
- Feb 21, 2003
- 6,249
- 8,171
- Disclosures
- Website and Social Media at Sadowsky
deepestend
Commercial User
- Feb 21, 2003
- 6,249
- 8,171
- Disclosures
- Website and Social Media at Sadowsky
deepestend
Commercial User
- Feb 21, 2003
- 6,249
- 8,171
- Disclosures
- Website and Social Media at Sadowsky
I have them on 4 basses and have been happy with them but have built 3 of my 4 basses so do not have much comparison to stock bridges…
I think roasted holds color but think the blue dye is known to change when used with a tru-oil finish, dunno exactly. My other roasted project I sanded and just used tru-oil, no color. Wonder if mixing a dye with tru-oil and then applying it would give another result?
Some sweet looking Warmoth basses posted in the last few days @pbass888 @Michael Vee @DustyBottom 
You guys are making me want to order more parts from Warmoth. Must... resist...
You guys are making me want to order more parts from Warmoth. Must... resist...
