Warrior Club Part 2

[jscottmsc]

Yes, that was the Warrior I returned...

...The preamp makes all of his [Warrior] basses a little mid forward, but that can be dialed out if needed...

I bought LSU's returned bass from JD (so no longer in the market). Interesting that this bass is a Swamp Ash body which produces a tone that Michael Tobias describes as having "scooped mids"...seems this may be the perfect wood choice to pair with the "mid-forward" Warrior preamp.

 

[GrooveWarrior]

I bought LSU's returned bass from JD (so no longer in the market). Interesting that this bass is a Swamp Ash body which produces a tone that Michael Tobias describes as having "scooped mids"...seems this may be the perfect wood choice to pair with the "mid-forward" Warrior preamp.

Can't wait to hear what you think of it.

 

[Vic]

Can't wait to hear what you think of it.

+1!

And on the Sparkle circuit, last I looked, JD does not document it at all (which is another annoyance of mine about it), but LSU can tell you how to adjust it if you end up with questions. I think experimentation will take care of it tho.

 

[GrooveWarrior]

+1!

And on the Sparkle circuit, last I looked, JD does not document it at all (which is another annoyance of mine about it), but LSU can tell you how to adjust it if you end up with questions. I think experimentation will take care of it tho.

I don't think I have ever even messed with mine. Maybe I should open up the control cavity and twist on it a bit.

 

[Vic]

I don't think I have ever even messed with mine. Maybe I should open up the control cavity and twist on it a bit.

I wish there was a "dual function" switch so it'd be easy to A/B it. Honestly, I probably wouldn't have even known how much better I'd like the sound if I hadn't first heard it with the circuit out of the picture, which was due to a minor wiring fault at the time I rec'd the bass (as I posted before). Kinda' like not knowing what you're missing, so to speak.

With it "back in" after fixing the wiring problem, I found I especially didn't like it turned all the way down (a bit dull sounding), but the diff between around midway and all the way up (brightest) just seemed to be varying grades of non-optimal... some stuff gets better, but other stuff seems to suffer. Just couldn't find a sweet spot that I thought compared to the sound I had before. Not sure how to quantify it better. Just not a good high end profile in general IMHO... at least compared to a straight wired bart pre. It just seemed to open up the sound and fill in some "tonal holes" when I took that darn thing out.

All this said, I also realize this is ALL personal pref. But I would find it VERY interesting if someone else were to explore this a bit and see if they agree or disagree with me (no problem either way!!!). If done carefully, there's enough wire that it could be reversed and the Sparkle circuit returned to active duty if desired.

FWIW anyway.

 

[nobes]

I plan to do this to one of my warriors just for comparison sake. I'll make soundclips comparing the with and without when I do. It might take me a while before I get the time to do it but I promise to post it whenever that may be.

I wish there was a "dual function" switch so it'd be easy to A/B it. Honestly, I probably wouldn't have even known how much better I'd like the sound if I hadn't first heard it with the circuit out of the picture, which was due to a minor wiring fault at the time I rec'd the bass (as I posted before). Kinda' like not knowing what you're missing, so to speak.

With it "back in" after fixing the wiring problem, I found I especially didn't like it turned all the way down (a bit dull sounding), but the diff between around midway and all the way up (brightest) just seemed to be varying grades of non-optimal... some stuff gets better, but other stuff seems to suffer. Just couldn't find a sweet spot that I thought compared to the sound I had before. Not sure how to quantify it better. Just not a good high end profile in general IMHO... at least compared to a straight wired bart pre. It just seemed to open up the sound and fill in some "tonal holes" when I took that darn thing out.

All this said, I also realize this is ALL personal pref. But I would find it VERY interesting if someone else were to explore this a bit and see if they agree or disagree with me (no problem either way!!!). If done carefully, there's enough wire that it could be reversed and the Sparkle circuit returned to active duty if desired.

FWIW anyway.

 

[Vic]

I plan to do this to one of my warriors just for comparison sake. I'll make soundclips comparing the with and without when I do. It might take me a while before I get the time to do it but I promise to post it whenever that may be.

That would be SO cool. Thanks!!

 

[ExaltBass]

I bought LSU's returned bass from JD (so no longer in the market). Interesting that this bass is a Swamp Ash body which produces a tone that Michael Tobias describes as having "scooped mids"...seems this may be the perfect wood choice to pair with the "mid-forward" Warrior preamp.

Congrats! Have fun with your new 'ride'

 

[lsu921]

I bought LSU's returned bass from JD (so no longer in the market). Interesting that this bass is a Swamp Ash body which produces a tone that Michael Tobias describes as having "scooped mids"...seems this may be the perfect wood choice to pair with the "mid-forward" Warrior preamp.

That's why I always spec out swamp ash bodies.. I'll be interested to hear how you like my creation. I only played it at home through my new Eden rig, which I had never used before so I really didn't have a reference point for the rig.

 

[Crazy4Bass]

Here is my offering to your fine thread. My Warrior studio 5 made in 1998. I need to post up a picture of the front so please bear with me and can I please have a number????

 

[Crazy4Bass]

Here are some other shots. Please excuse the not so perfect photos as I am still learning.

 

[kfc333]

After reading these recent posts, I'd like to make two comments.

1. Used vs. New... I have 3 Warriors that I purchased as pre-owned. All three are terrific and had no issues when I got them. The thought of a new Warrior ordered to my exact specs sounds great, but I can't say I'm one bit disappointed in 3 pre-owned Warriors!

2. Sparkle Circuit... My description of and annoyance with this circuit I would best describe as a strong "tick" or "tink" sound that was very exaggerated when using a bass cab with a tweeter. Just touching the strings made this sound, and it would be loud. Turning the high-end down on either the bass or the amp didn't really get rid of this "tink" sound, and it made the overall sound of the bass dull. Wiring all three of my Warriors per the Bart schematic helped a lot. So, I'm not a fan of the sparkle circuit.

Just my opinions.

 

[brotherbassj]

I've seen alot of posts regarding the preamp on the Warriors. Mine has "the newest 2012 preamp" does anyone know what the difference is if any vs. the "sparkle circuit" equiped models? Thanks

 

[jscottmsc]

After reading these recent posts, I'd like to make two comments.

1. Used vs. New... I have 3 Warriors that I purchased as pre-owned. All three are terrific and had no issues when I got them. The thought of a new Warrior ordered to my exact specs sounds great, but I can't say I'm one bit disappointed in 3 pre-owned Warriors!

2. Sparkle Circuit... My description of and annoyance with this circuit I would best describe as a strong "tick" or "tink" sound that was very exaggerated when using a bass cab with a tweeter. Just touching the strings made this sound, and it would be loud. Turning the high-end down on either the bass or the amp didn't really get rid of this "tink" sound, and it made the overall sound of the bass dull. Wiring all three of my Warriors per the Bart schematic helped a lot. So, I'm not a fan of the sparkle circuit.

Just my opinions.

Actually very helpful...thanks.

Getting my New Warrior (pre-owned for 1 day) later this week...so I now know what to listen for...the "tink"

 

[Vic]

After reading these recent posts, I'd like to make two comments.

1. Used vs. New...

2. Sparkle Circuit...

Just my opinions.

...and mine. My only current Warrior I got used, and of course I agree completely with your Sparkle circuit comments. Nice post.

I've seen alot of posts regarding the preamp on the Warriors. Mine has "the newest 2012 preamp" does anyone know what the difference is if any vs. the "sparkle circuit" equiped models? Thanks

The only other change I'm aware of is he altered his mid control some, but honestly, it seems kinda' subtle to me other than the fact that I found myself boosting mids more with the bass I had that had it. I guess that means it probably is a more scooped sound than it was before. IMHO, while that sounds sweeter in a demo booth or solo at home, it'd kill you on cutting through on a gig, so I wasn't too thrilled with that change either. Honestly a straight bart wiring (IMHO!!!) is best. I'd personally tell JD to stop messing with the preamp and focus on what he has much more expertise in... building the instrument itself.

Again, IMHO!

 

[lsu921]

I've seen alot of posts regarding the preamp on the Warriors. Mine has "the newest 2012 preamp" does anyone know what the difference is if any vs. the "sparkle circuit" equiped models? Thanks

The 2012 preamp is supposed to have more bottom. He's been tinkering with the low frequency the last several years to get it dialed in. These basses have small bodies, and certain ones can be a little light on the low end.

 

[jscottmsc]

The 2012 preamp is supposed to have more bottom. He's been tinkering with the low frequency the last several years to get it dialed in. These basses have small bodies, and certain ones can be a little light on the low end.

Got LSU's bass, today, and the low B is very strong (I see the B is actually closer to the p/u as well.)

Tone is bright (and dare I say..."Sparkly") and this bass speaks with a lot of authority. The electronics put out a hot signal.

The action is very low, however, this bass has a few rattles (both unplugged and amplified)...some of this seems to be the strings vibrating against the frets (no mater how soft I pluck them). I played a Warrior bass at one of the gutair shows and the action was very low...but no rattles or fret buzz whatsoever on that bass...so I am a little disapointed that this bass did not arrive ready to play because I have gigs tonight (Thurs) and tomorrow (Fri) but I am not sure this instrument will be ready to play.

Also a little disapointed that this bass does not have the truss rod wheel which would have made tweaks much quicker and easier.

I also notice some frets (6,8,14 and 24) have rough/sharp metal edges (needs to be filed?) along the G string side of the fret board as you move up and down the neck. (Maybe some "fast pass" hangover.)

 

[lsu921]

Got LSU's bass, today, and the low B is very strong (I see the B is actually closer to the p/u as well.)

Tone is bright (and dare I say..."Sparkly") and this bass speaks with a lot of authority. The electronics put out a hot signal.

The action is very low, however, this bass has a few rattles (both unplugged and amplified)...some of this seems to be the strings vibrating against the frets (no mater how soft I pluck them). I played a Warrior bass at one of the gutair shows and the action was very low...but no rattles or fret buzz whatsoever on that bass...so I am a little disapointed that this bass did not arrive ready to play because I have gigs tonight (Thurs) and tomorrow (Fri) but I am not sure this instrument will be ready to play.

Also a little disapointed that this bass does not have the truss rod wheel which would have made tweaks much quicker and easier.

I also notice some frets (6,8,14 and 24) have rough/sharp metal edges (needs to be filed?) along the G string side of the fret board as you move up and down the neck. (Maybe some "fast pass" hangover.)

I thought it sounded good too for the little bit of time I spent with it. The buzz could be due to changes in the environment from shipping. I've never had a bolt-on with the truss rod wheel, but others have. However, the rough/sharp frets would be a concern to me. I didn't notice that when I had it, which to me says the fretboard could be shrinking (meaning it was dried out enough to start with). Or it could be that they did a total refret (doubt that) after I sent it back and didn't file it well enough. My advice is call JD if you think the issues are bad enough and send it back if you need to.

 

[rodneyat]

Got LSU's bass, today, and the low B is very strong (I see the B is actually closer to the p/u as well.)

Tone is bright (and dare I say..."Sparkly") and this bass speaks with a lot of authority. The electronics put out a hot signal.

The action is very low, however, this bass has a few rattles (both unplugged and amplified)...some of this seems to be the strings vibrating against the frets (no mater how soft I pluck them). I played a Warrior bass at one of the gutair shows and the action was very low...but no rattles or fret buzz whatsoever on that bass...so I am a little disapointed that this bass did not arrive ready to play because I have gigs tonight (Thurs) and tomorrow (Fri) but I am not sure this instrument will be ready to play.

Also a little disapointed that this bass does not have the truss rod wheel which would have made tweaks much quicker and easier.

I also notice some frets (6,8,14 and 24) have rough/sharp metal edges (needs to be filed?) along the G string side of the fret board as you move up and down the neck. (Maybe some "fast pass" hangover.)

Let it settle in for a few days before you go crazy. Make any simple truss rod tweaks you need to today if the neck is not straight. And/or bring the saddles up. It's winter time and these instruments go through a lot in shipping. Warrior guitars and basses do have some of the thinnest and fastest necks I have ever seen on a bass. The other side of that..the necks probably move more than some other basses. Let it settle in to your environment. If you live in a cold environment and have the heat running a lot. You probably need to get some moisture back in the bass. Leave it IN the case with a humidifier for a couple of days. And take it from there.

 

[lsu921]

Let it settle in for a few days before you go crazy. Make any simple truss rod tweaks you need to today if the neck is not straight. And/or bring the saddles up. It's winter time and these instruments go through a lot in shipping. Warrior guitars and basses do have some of the thinnest and fastest necks I have ever seen on a bass. The other side of that..the necks probably move more than some other basses. Let it settle in to your environment. If you live in a cold environment and have the heat running a lot. You probably need to get some moisture back in the bass. Leave it IN the case with a humidifier for a couple of days. And take it from there.

Agreed. I rarely get a bass shipped in that doesn't need time to settle in or a minor tweak. As Rodney stated, those necks are super thin and probably do move a little more than most under FedEx conditions. I've had no neck stability issues with any of my Warriors, but upon arrival some have had buzzing. JD sets them up very low, so just a little movement will make a difference.