I always liked seeing the laminates running through the back of the headstock so I don't think you need to veneer the back. Having the front match the body is always nice and more forgiving. I've seen @Beej do front and back so he's probably equipped to advise on that
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WBO 2022: Löwenbäss
- Thread starter RichterScale
- Start date
Originally I didn't want to do a veneer on back. But the blank will only be 1-1/4" tall and won't allow for a steep enough headstock angle. With the scarf joint, I'll have a line right across the middle of the headstock on back.
Even if I get it super tight, I know it will stand out. I need little wings on the sides, so the line will be hidden there.
Even if I get it super tight, I know it will stand out. I need little wings on the sides, so the line will be hidden there.
Meh, don't overthink it. My scarf joint didn't come out perfect either. It's my first attempt, I'll figure it out eventually. I only have 5 laminates so that means basically four "lines" that needed to match up. Somehow I got three of the four looking good, that fourth one bugs me. But my plan is to not even point it out. It is what it is.
TL : DR - Don't overthink it man.
TL : DR - Don't overthink it man.
Besides, @RichterScale, if you'd do your scarf joint like a normal person, the flawed joint would be on the back of the neck where you can't hide it anyways. 
No, I have to do it my own special way and insist I can make it work. Otherwise I have nothing to bitch and be stressed about. What then?
Really thin veneers, like commercially available ones, I've found will usually just conform to the bend and can be clamped down with a caul. Some glues will seep through, so it's worth a test on a sacrificial piece to see how it responds to your glue. For thicker veneers, basically anything over 1.5mm, I pre-bend the curve with heat before gluing.
I was waiting to be tagged on that. I just want to know how he got a photo of me!I saw a like on this from @AudioTaper... STRONG username-to-meme-content correlation.
Dang Tapir-razzi hanging around in trees targeting your pool again...
So, I printed out a paper protractor and realized that I was starting my center point from the wrong spot.
I decided to plane down the neck blank to 1-3/8 instead of 1-1/4. Then used the protractor like a 5th grader, tried a 7* angle and it worked. No need for a scarf or veneer on back.
I'll countersink the tuner nuts into the top veneer a bit.
I decided to plane down the neck blank to 1-3/8 instead of 1-1/4. Then used the protractor like a 5th grader, tried a 7* angle and it worked. No need for a scarf or veneer on back.
I'll countersink the tuner nuts into the top veneer a bit.
Yep. I'm hoping to get the strings to follow parallel to the top of the headstock. Or close to it. I'll have to take some more detailed measurements of the tuners and refine the thickness of the headstock, etc, and dial it in. And then hope it all works with my zero fret/string slot setup that's just an idea at the moment.
It's not super easy to tell from these pics, but I'd guess it looks close to 7.
I'm not looking for their angle so I can copy it. I was just curious how their overall setup was and what angle they used to make it work.
I picked 7 a while back, but couldn't fit it in my blank without a scarf. Then as I was drawing it, it just didn't seem like enough for a good break angle, so I figured screw it, I'm doing a scarf anyway, might as well tilt back to 10.
But realized I screwed up with the protractor and 7 will be good.
Ken Parker did extensive testing of breakover angles needed to keep the string in the slot and no overtones and reportedly found 4.25 degrees to be the minimum acceptable angle for string breakover. As long as your headstock design allows for that much or more, you should be good. I've not tested it in detail, but I've got a couple of instruments with only around 5 degrees and they have had no issues. I've posted it a few times before, but I can't find the original article about his findings unfortunately.
HA!
I was just reading the thread in which that article was posted, not even 2 min ago.
The rock in my shoe now is volutes.
Some are centered under the nut, some are an inch back down the neck, some are way up into the headstock,.....it's a frikkin free-for-all!!
Some are centered under the nut, some are an inch back down the neck, some are way up into the headstock,.....it's a frikkin free-for-all!!
Volutes are a highly debated topic. There are those that tell you the volute is for neck strength at the weakest spot. There are those who swear the volute is for player position feel (you know when you're at the money spot because you feel the volute). Leo cared not for any of that nonsense. YMMV. (insert shrug emoji here.....seriously, why do we not have a shrug emoji? )
Good news! If there is no official canon or dogma, we are less likely to be burned at the stake for our heretical design ideas.
