Abso frikkin lutely!
I'd use that thing like Frank's red hot.
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WBO 2022: Löwenbäss
- Thread starter RichterScale
- Start date
I'd use that thing like Frank's red hot.
So, I can put my volute anywhere?
Feels naughty.
Feels naughty.
Question:
Why is the swirl at the bottom of a staircase handrail called a volute, but that exact shape at the end of a bass upper horn is called a scroll, and a little nub on the neck is a volute?
Someone is out of line.
Why is the swirl at the bottom of a staircase handrail called a volute, but that exact shape at the end of a bass upper horn is called a scroll, and a little nub on the neck is a volute?
Someone is out of line.
You should probably consult your local ordinances regarding where you can willfully display your volute.
Well, if they'd change the stupid fence height limit rule from 6' to 8', I wouldn't have to worry about it.You should probably consult your local ordinances regarding where you can willfully display your volute.
Well, gonna go over the work mate bench thingy and see if the top is square/level enough to route a truss rod slot. Other than being rusty and covered with paint and crap, it seems to be functional and undamaged.
At the very least, I could probably reuse the clamping mechanisms to make a custom neck jig.
At the very least, I could probably reuse the clamping mechanisms to make a custom neck jig.
curious... when was your last tetanus shot? Don't know what made me think of that.
Just so you know - that looks like one of the early/best models - it's diecast, not the cheaper stamped steel the later ones went to.
Think of it as "Pre-CBS" if that helps any (it really doesn't help me much, see list below for utter lack of certain brand, but I pick things up going by...)
The top can easily be replaced if need be. And I don't mean go buy one.
As usual, @Gilmourisgod has asked the good questions and created another resource thread.
Volute Placement and Carving
Almost 32 yrs ago. Got in a fight with a hatchet and a clothes line and lost. Ended up with a few stitches and a tetanus shot.
Yeah, it's still in perfect working order. I'll probably take it apart, clean off the rust and repaint it. The top is a little marked up, I had to rasp off a little corner that was dinged and sticking up, but they're still perfectly flat.
Which ended up not mattering, because I just put a board under the neck to raise it up and the router can ride on the neck itself. I made a block the size of the router, marked the center and set the guides to it. This should work out pretty good.
Alright, hold my beer,..I'm going for it....
What, a cliff hanger? Like light from distant galaxies, it already happened, and we only see the afterglow......
Yay!! My first truss rod slot!
Well, my first that I didn't screw up.
Yay!! My 2nd truss rod slot!
Well, my first that I didn't screw up.
Yay!! My 2nd truss rod slot!
Talk about a cliff hanger/nail bitter,..
I was gluing up the neck blank lams and the lights dimmed a few times.
The power does go out in this area a little too often (old infrastructure) and when the lights dim a few times, it usually means lights out in a few minutes. It would've been pitch black as I was in the basement. I hurried up and set up my battery work light in the middle of glue. The power didn't go out, but for a solid 5 minutes it was sheer terror!
- Apr 18, 2008
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- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Nice one dude, you nailed it. You can do the tiltback now. 
Just make sure you route for your LED side dots before gluing down the fretboard….
Just make sure you route for your LED side dots before gluing down the fretboard….
So, while it's still a blank, what's easier to do first, the side profile cut and then the top face taper?
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,024
- 1
- 31,756
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
I'm not sure I fully understand the question, but I'm gonna take a stab at it.
I would cut the profile first, because with the sides still straight and square it'll be easier to send through a band saw, I'm assuming you are cutting the profile on a band saw. Then I would cut the width taper after that, because you could set it "face down" on a sled and send it through the table saw. That seems like the normal way to do it to me. But I'm far from normal and I build neck thru things because why do something if you aren't gonna over complicate it?
I would cut the profile first, because with the sides still straight and square it'll be easier to send through a band saw, I'm assuming you are cutting the profile on a band saw. Then I would cut the width taper after that, because you could set it "face down" on a sled and send it through the table saw. That seems like the normal way to do it to me. But I'm far from normal and I build neck thru things because why do something if you aren't gonna over complicate it?
