I know the difference between light and medium-light sets, but I'm wondering how did medium-light sets come about and be offered by virtually every brand? Are they supposed to be better balance tone and/or tension wise than light sets? Or is that a lot of people dislike ~ .040 and .060? Are they more prone to snap? Etc.?
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What’s the difference between light and med-light?
- Thread starter JazzyJacuzzi
- Start date
Depends entirely on the manufacturer.
D'addario's "standard" sets were XL160 with 45/65/80/100 and XL170 with 50/70/85/105. Around 1990 they came out with XL165 set that is 45/65/85/105.
But we'll before that most other companies regular medium was 45/65 (or 60)/85/105.
D'addario's "standard" sets were XL160 with 45/65/80/100 and XL170 with 50/70/85/105. Around 1990 they came out with XL165 set that is 45/65/85/105.
But we'll before that most other companies regular medium was 45/65 (or 60)/85/105.
I think it's actually the other way around.
D'A EXL170 = "regular light" = 45-65-80-100 = most other companies' "medium-light".
D'A EXL160 = "medium" = 50-70-85-105.
D'A EXL 165 = "light top/medium bottom" = 45-65-85-105 = most other companies' "medium" or "standard".
Yes, it's as clear as mud.
Different basses with different pickup configurations require different sets of gauges for overall tonal balance.
60 Split coil P bass / Stingray = 45-100 or 50-105
Jazz bass/51 pbass /Reverse Split P/ Humbucker = 40-100, 45-105 , 50-110
In theory, thicker D and G string able give the 60 split coil DG pup fuller and thicker tone to match the lighter gauge on E and A string , since the treble pickup placement are forward to bridge side in design.
For Stingray, if you hate the thin sounding G string voice, you need find the bass string which has full body tone for G string. So far on my personal experience, DR lo rider nickel ,Ti flat , EB Cobalt flat 2812 and GHS Precision flat 3025(except the DEAD E string) do help.
Jazz bass/51 pbass /Reverse Split P/ Humbucker = 40-100, 45-105 , 50-110
In theory, thicker D and G string able give the 60 split coil DG pup fuller and thicker tone to match the lighter gauge on E and A string , since the treble pickup placement are forward to bridge side in design.
For Stingray, if you hate the thin sounding G string voice, you need find the bass string which has full body tone for G string. So far on my personal experience, DR lo rider nickel ,Ti flat , EB Cobalt flat 2812 and GHS Precision flat 3025(except the DEAD E string) do help.
I think it's actually the other way around.
D'A EXL170 = "regular light" = 45-65-80-100 = most other companies' "medium-light".
D'A EXL160 = "medium" = 50-70-85-105.
D'A EXL 165 = "light top/medium bottom" = 45-65-85-105 = most other companies' "medium" or "standard".
Yes, it's as clear as mud.
Different basses with different pickup configurations require different sets of gauges for overall tonal balance.
Ah, it's been a couple of decades since I was selling them, and their numbering systems are almost as bad as Guild's.
For acoustic guitars, 17 sets are heavier than 16. E.G., J17 starts with a 13, J16 starts with a 12. Electric guitar is the opposite with XL110 starting with a 10 and XL120 starts with a 9.
For acoustic guitars, 17 sets are heavier than 16. E.G., J17 starts with a 13, J16 starts with a 12. Electric guitar is the opposite with XL110 starting with a 10 and XL120 starts with a 9.
So, if the treble pickup is closer to the bridge (e.g. 60s split coil P), I should opt for a medium D & G.
But how does this logic work with two-pickup basses, like a Jazz bass, or in my case, a Stingray HH?
I've always disliked the traditional 45-65-80-100 set (D'Addario in particular) because the unevenness I feel under the fingers is a lot more obvious than whatever tonal advantages it may provide over 40-60-80-100, especially in a live band mix. I switched from 45s to 40s a couple of years ago and haven't noticed any significant difference in tonal quality in real-life applications.
