I haven't looked at it closely for several months but I'm gonna do that tomorrow. What I do know is that it's a dual audio taper. And I believe it is switched because it goes between active/passive. Non-switched would be like a stereo amp volume where both were on at all times and switched is when you choose between one or the other, right?
Now that I remember more about my conversation with Ken and a supporting associate, it's got a tricky mount to the PCB. He sandwiches two boards with a few mm's of clearance between for both PCB's in the bass. I think that's what makes the replacement tricky. I'm not sure that there's a way to separate the boards and get at the bottoms of them without destroying them.
Like I said, I haven't gotten the chance to look at it closely for a while now so I'll try to pop it open tomorrow and with any luck, find a way to replace this pot. Thanks for your reply.
BTW, great soldering tutorial earlier! I am also a fan of the Kester "44" 63/37 solder. I like having both braid and a solder sucker around but prefer the sucker for most things.
Yeah, they're probably just afraid of getting blamed if you wreck your board. That's never stopped me.
Though I'd be sure I've got the right tools/skills first.by switching from active to passive, do you mean it's got a push-pull type switch, or just that it fades between them. If it's a fader, I wouldn't really expect them to use audio (log) taper, because it would tend to favour one or the other. Maybe that works out well though, depending on the sound.
