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What do ya'll know about the SUNN 2000S?
- Thread starter JoshuaTSP
- Start date
Rick Auricchio
Registered Bass Offender
You can't buy new ones nowadays.
You would do far better to actually list some questions you have about the amp.
You would do far better to actually list some questions you have about the amp.
Tube amps only take a couple minutes to warm up, really. They get even better after a bit longer, but you can go ahead and start playing after a minute or two.
Contour knob doesnt do anything. Its pure power this amp. If you need tone controls do what my dad did. Use a Moog Parametric eq as your preamp.
That I do know.
The guy selling it said "it takes a while to warm up"
Whatever that means??
Hmmm....I got about 1.5 hours before I can try it for the first time.
That was my first real amp and I can tell you it's HEAVY.
It only takes a few minutes to warm up to play but after a while the tubes get warmer and the amp sounds better.
Did I mention it was HEAVY?
It only takes a few minutes to warm up to play but after a while the tubes get warmer and the amp sounds better.
Did I mention it was HEAVY?
The previous owner made it sound like more then 1 minute?
I've never heard of an amp needing more time then that?
Yeah, it is heavy, it's sitting in my office lurking at me!
It was one of my favorite tube amps, If I could have kept three tube amps it would have been a 2000s, V4-B and pre MTI SVT.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,636
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
well then the one you're describing wasn't working properly. the contour knob on my current one changes the tone quite a bit and its bone stock at factory specs. i've had 3 of them over the years, and they all worked the same way.
i always find it amusing when someone makes a 'blanket' statement based on one particular amp that probably wasn't up to snuff in the first place.
IMO, its one of the best sounding bass amps of all time.
well then the one you're describing wasn't working properly. the contour knob on my current one changes the tone quite a bit and its bone stock at factory specs. i've had 3 of them over the years, and they all worked the same way.
i always find it amusing when someone makes a 'blanket' statement based on one particular amp that probably wasn't up to snuff in the first place.
IMO, its one of the best sounding bass amps of all time.
ALL MARSHALL AMPS SUCK!!!
Just kidding. I'd say the 200s is close in too.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,636
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
Wow did you just take that out of the box? Excellent condition
Did they have color photography in '69?
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,636
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
Wow did you just take that out of the box? Excellent condition
no, its just a super clean one that took me a while to find. and its actually in better shape than the used '69 2000S that i bought in '72.
All of my tube amps sound better as they get hotter. I know a little about amps, and I can't really explain it, it does take a little time for the iron to get up to temp, maybe it's my ears, or cumulative effect of the slight adjustments I make during a gig, or maybe a combination of all of them;
But... after a couple sets they really get into the "zone", and I rarely if ever use intoxicants when Im being paid to play.
Maybe that's what the previous owner was talking about?
+1, my contour knobs all have a pretty profound effect on the tone also.
The 2000S really shines with the matched D140F loaded 2000S cabinet, but those are harder to find than the amps.
Which is curious, because you couldn't buy a new 2000S head without at least one 2000S cabinet, so there were more cabs than heads manufactured.
This one is actually a '72 (factory test date 4/18/72), which is a bit of an anomaly because the 2000S had been discontinued and replaced by the 350B in the 1972 catalog.
Not as clean as John's, but box stock and factory spec; except for some concessions made because I do sometimes gig this rig, and when it's not actually working on stage the amp serves as a backup to a Reeves C225. A beefed up power supply and grounded AC (the polarity switch is now a ground lift) for safety and to better handle modern wall voltages. Also, I have the original D140F's, but keep this cabinet loaded with K140's because they are more durable,
And frankly... I like the sound of the K's better.
I have a long retired, 1970 factory sponsored touring 2000S rig with two cabs that I'm sloooowly restoring back to stock, but I'll probably leave the updates out of that one. It's all there, but electronically a little "tired" and the tolex and grills look like, well, a long retired 1970 factory sponsored touring rig.
Are relic'ed rigs as popular as relic'ed basses? Maybe I should leave it alone...
I third that motion. Tonally, my best sounding rig is a very low hour 68 200S with the original tubes and D140F loaded 200S cab. Still specs as new, they built things to last in those days. Nowhere near the oomph of my big tube or SS rigs, but plenty for tame repertoires in small-medium venues without PA support.
