What is this wood???

[Bassist59]

I just examined the body and it looks like the oil based stain dried ok. There was a concern that it wouldn’t dry out because I applied it over sealer (not recommended) but that’s just not the case. I found some flaws so I scuff sanded the imperfect areas with more fine sandpaper.

To smooth things out I went over it once more with a rag dipped in a tiny amount of stain. Minwax oil based stain contains solvent so that was the recommended method for smoothing it out.

I’m thinking I’ll hit it with the first coat of shellac in a little over 24 hrs or maybe later. If it still smells like stain, I’ll wait.

1. Let stain completely dry.
2. Coat or coats of shellac as needed. (I just hope it adheres over the oil based stain...it should according to my research)
3. Clear nitro - let dry for weeks.
4. Shine with buffing wheel and polishing compound until it’s glossy as can be, reassemble this guy and play!!

Do you Talkbass luthiers agree with this plan?

I’m pretty satisfied with this “Asian Mystery Wood” body! My wife bluntly told me it looks bad, like somebody had a bumper sticker stuck on it that was ripped off. I had to ask and she told me! It’s flawed. I can relate, lol! ...note the red epoxy stuff or bondo that‘s on there as a filler.

This is as bad as it gets....the upper horn near the strap pin. I can live with it. It’s not a problem because...It’s gonna be under the strap!!!

 

[Joshua]

This isn't OT. Please keep it prime time TV appropriate.

 

[Bassist59]

To keep everything compatible, I just went with gloss clear poly today. I wanted to use shellac and nitro but didn’t want to take the chance of the oil based stain reacting with shellac and nitro solvents. The safest bet was Minwax oil based poly spray over the Minwax oil based stain.

I posted some stuff at the Dean Club forum as well since this is a Dean Zone XM Bass.

 

[Bassist59]

I finished the “Asian Mystery Wood Dean Zone Bass”. I learned a few things:

1. Seeing the wood is cool. I didn’t think so before, but even if it’s not perfect, it’s fun to look at, IMO.
2. Minwax gloss clear poly works! It worked for me, anyway. I’ll be using it from now on.

BEFORE: (I played it a LOT about 10 years ago, then it was abandoned.)

AFTER: Hipshot bridge was a spot on replacement.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Looks good. A new model is born: the Dean AMW.

 

[daveman50]

Nice job. You maximized its potential.

 

[TerribleTim68]

...

...

Yeah, thanks for that. That was the one scene in that entire series that actually made me gag, and just seeing the video thumbnail actually made me gag again....all these years later.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Yeah, thanks for that. That was the one scene in that entire series that actually made me gag, and just seeing the video thumbnail actually made me gag again....all these years later.

I'm just glad I could brighten someone's day! These are the moments that make life so special.

 

[micguy]

There are about 100 species of wood that folks will call "mahogany". None of them look like Honduras mahogany (which is darker and redder), but still they persist calling them "mahogany". Weight wise, on a bass you're better off - Honduras mahogany is pretty dense stuff. Anyway, your bass is probably made from one of those 100 species. It looks pretty decent.

Minwax stain and poly can make decent finishes - I have several basses I've done that way. I use the satin for the final coats (less fingerprints), but either one (gloss or satin) will last a good long time

 

[Bassist59]

There are about 100 species of wood that folks will call "mahogany". None of them look like Honduras mahogany (which is darker and redder), but still they persist calling them "mahogany". Weight wise, on a bass you're better off - Honduras mahogany is pretty dense stuff. Anyway, your bass is probably made from one of those 100 species. It looks pretty decent.

Minwax stain and poly can make decent finishes - I have several basses I've done that way. I use the satin for the final coats (less fingerprints), but either one (gloss or satin) will last a good long time

I can’t get a straight answer on this...

What solid color paint can you coat with Minwax oil based clear gloss poly?

Rustoleum black acrylic - can that be coated with poly clear when dry?

I’m asking because I’m going to build a bass from a kit and I want gloss black, not stained - painted. And I want to use the Minwax poly clear again.

Thoughts?

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I can’t get a straight answer on this...

What solid color paint can you coat with Minwax oil based clear gloss poly?

Rustoleum black acrylic - can that be coated with poly clear when dry?

I’m asking because I’m going to build a bass from a kit and I want gloss black, not stained - painted. And I want to use the Minwax poly clear again.

Thoughts?

Probably. Just get some wood, even if it’s a 2 x 4 cutoff and try what you want to use for a finish.

 

[Bassist59]

Probably. Just get some wood, even if it’s a 2 x 4 cutoff and try what you want to use for a finish.

yep...I bought some scrap 2x4 pieces for that purpose. I’ll do some experiments. Just wondering what everybody else’s “recipe” is for a good solid, gloss black poly finish.

 

[Bassist59]

Nice job. You maximized its potential.

Thanks! I was in a band very briefly years ago and proudly showed one of the guys that I just changed the strings, adjusted the pickups, and intonation on my guitar. He replied, “That’s great....now if you could just play it!” Lol!

I kinda walked into that one!

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Thanks! I was in a band very briefly years ago and proudly showed one of the guys that I just changed the strings, adjusted the pickups, and intonation on my guitar. He replied, “That’s great....now if you could just play it!” Lol!

I kinda walked into that one!

Eh, just tell him that 1 mediocre bass player is worth 2-3 good guitar players!

 

[micguy]

I can’t get a straight answer on this...

What solid color paint can you coat with Minwax oil based clear gloss poly?

Rustoleum black acrylic - can that be coated with poly clear when dry?

I’m asking because I’m going to build a bass from a kit and I want gloss black, not stained - painted. And I want to use the Minwax poly clear again.

Thoughts?

I’ve used Rustoleum’s 2x paint a bunch of times, with Minwax poly over the paint. I use gloss, then satin for the final coat, but just gloss would work fine as well. I haven’t had any issues doing that. Still, try whatever you want to do on a non-vital piece of wood, to make sure.

 

[Bassist59]

I’ve used Rustoleum’s 2x paint a bunch of times, with Minwax poly over the paint. I

That’s what I needed to hear!! Thanks!

 

[micguy]

That’s what I needed to hear!! Thanks!

You’re welcome.

 

[byacey]

I'm sure it's just basswood. The previous dark finish accented the grain patterm

I've never seen hard or heavy basswood; it's generally a lightweight wood.
The stuff in the pictures looks like Indonesian Mahogany aka Lauan.

 

[Bassist59]

I've never seen hard or heavy basswood; it's generally a lightweight wood.
The stuff in the pictures looks like Indonesian Mahogany aka Lauan.

You’re probably right, thanks for the info. I’m guessing they chose that big coarse grained wood so it would show through the original translucent finish.

Its definitely not flawless but it’s fun to look at. The fact that I’m not 100% sure what it is kind of wood it is adds to the mystique!