For me 3 things, Tone, feel and play ability has it, it's good if I can't get those 3 things out of a bass, it's not for me not that it is "bad" it may great for someone else. What I'm saying is you will never know till you play it. Good luck
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What makes a bass good?
- Thread starter zagreus
- Start date
About electronics, I see people buy guitars all the time and just replace the pickups immediately, and other electrical components, which leaves me confused, because if electronics is something that makes a bass good, why would some people go out and replace them right away? I appreciate your help so far.
it's more a question of what makes a bass bad. I get the drift of what you are saying, but my perspective is that any one aspect of the bass that is deficient and/or needs replacing right after purchase, works against it being "good." The fewer negatives right outside the starting gate the better.
What makes a bass good? It's a choice that's all yours. If you are brand specific you are missing the boat. Don't buy something you can't or haven't played. People typically suggest something they own. What I have and like may not be for you. Cosmetics, fit and finish are important but, playability to YOUR liking are the main thing. Make it your decision through trial and error. Good luck.
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I first find a bass I'm attracted to, then find one and try it out. IF I like the look, the weight, just how it feels on a strap and how the neck feels in my hand, then 3 things, with Cliff Notes . . . .
1) It's got to be able to easily get in tune and then stay in tune for a reasonable amount of time. I don't care what it is, whether Squier or Ritter, if I can't play in tune, especially for five sets with a band, it's uttterly useless.
. . . . . of course this is assuming you can properly install a set of bass strings . . . .
2) Pretty much hand in hand with that, it has to accept a proper setup so it plays well, and maintain that setup for reasonable amounts of time. I'll give a little on a brand new bass with relatively green wood that may take a little extra tending to, but otherwise the nut, frets, bridge, and truss rod adjustment need to be easily workable and reliable in holding things in just the right place of long periods of time.
. . . . . this means you can't leave it in the trunk overnight during a Freeze Warning, or 130-degree summer day, and please DON'T use a cheater pipe to budge that pesky, sticky truss rod nut . . . .
3) It's got to be quiet electronically. Passive, active, whatever the electronics package, aside from rare unavoidable situations (that one crappy bar where you're under a neon sign next to an arc welding shop next door . . . . ), it's got to be quiet, no buzzes, hums, etc. This tells me the installation of the pickups and tone network was done right with shielding in place as needed.
. . . . . you'll really need this especially once you hook up 10 God-Knows-What pedals with crappy jumper wires . . .
Fail any of those three, I'm walking.
1) It's got to be able to easily get in tune and then stay in tune for a reasonable amount of time. I don't care what it is, whether Squier or Ritter, if I can't play in tune, especially for five sets with a band, it's uttterly useless.
. . . . . of course this is assuming you can properly install a set of bass strings . . . .
2) Pretty much hand in hand with that, it has to accept a proper setup so it plays well, and maintain that setup for reasonable amounts of time. I'll give a little on a brand new bass with relatively green wood that may take a little extra tending to, but otherwise the nut, frets, bridge, and truss rod adjustment need to be easily workable and reliable in holding things in just the right place of long periods of time.
. . . . . this means you can't leave it in the trunk overnight during a Freeze Warning, or 130-degree summer day, and please DON'T use a cheater pipe to budge that pesky, sticky truss rod nut . . . .
3) It's got to be quiet electronically. Passive, active, whatever the electronics package, aside from rare unavoidable situations (that one crappy bar where you're under a neon sign next to an arc welding shop next door . . . . ), it's got to be quiet, no buzzes, hums, etc. This tells me the installation of the pickups and tone network was done right with shielding in place as needed.
. . . . . you'll really need this especially once you hook up 10 God-Knows-What pedals with crappy jumper wires . . .
Fail any of those three, I'm walking.
Some do, some don't. I have been satisfied with the pickups and electronics in all my basses, actually. I may replace one of the P-pickups with something darker-sounding, but I obviously have not had a strong urge to do so. I know a lot of bassists that have just used their basses as they came from the factory, so I know I'm not alone in this.
The neck will tell you if you're home. Within a few seconds. The pickups you can swap. I, however, still play all my basses stock.
In order for a bass to be “good”
I need to like it. So it has to have a neck that I find comfortable. The rest is negotiable.
But other features like pickups I like and controls that I like are important.
Chicken head knobs make a bass good.
Daphne blue makes a bass good but so does blue burst.
Nut width is important. I won’t play a bass without a nut width.
I need to like it. So it has to have a neck that I find comfortable. The rest is negotiable.
But other features like pickups I like and controls that I like are important.
Chicken head knobs make a bass good.
Daphne blue makes a bass good but so does blue burst.
Nut width is important. I won’t play a bass without a nut width.
I think I can agree on that. Nonzero nut width seems really important.
You should not have to fight the bass to play it or achieve a usable tone. How much you spend is not relevant in that respect.
Because it’s fun, and you make it your own.About electronics, I see people buy guitars all the time and just replace the pickups immediately, and other electrical components, which leaves me confused, because if electronics is something that makes a bass good, why would some people go out and replace them right away? I appreciate your help so far.
Does it make you feel good? Does it inspire you to make music? Do you feel at home with it? None of this is easily determined by shopping online. Although I have purchased many basses online, I'm comfortable with tweaking my basses to suit me so I don't have as much trepidation about doing so. If you can, play as many as you can find within your price range. Don't dismiss the lower priced stuff, though. Price isn't everything. Neither is brand name (a lesson I learned the hard way after many, many experiences). So, after you find "the one" that gives voice to your vision, wait a few days before you pull the trigger, if it's feasible. If it still frequently creeps into your waking (and maybe sleeping) thoughts, then go for it!
My personal list, in order of importance:
- looks (yes, I'm shallow)
- tonal consistency (does it sit in the mix well over the fretboard?)
- tonal character (does it speak to me?)
Craftsmanship, ergonomics, low action etc. are secondary (though they do play a certain role).
Case in point:
The Ibanez Soundgear line is well made (especially at the higher end of the range), easy to play, comfortable instruments, and they also have tonal consistency... but they have little character and bland looks (in my opinion).
Warwick classics (Thumb, Streamer Stage I-II, etc.) are well made, they play well, they have tonal consistency and they also have character... but I don't like the way they look.
A Steinberger whatsitcalled (you know... the one also Geddy Lee used) is well made, has tonal consistency, looks cool in a kitsch '80s way, it's extremely convenient (except for string options...) but it doesn't have much tonal character. Still, it ticks all the other boxes so I still want one.
On the other hand, my cheap Hofner Club is... not well made, has poopie hardware, has low sustain, especially on the G string higher up, it kind of neck-dives but it looks cool, it sits really well in the mix for the kind of stuff I'm playing, it oozes character and I love it.
- looks (yes, I'm shallow)
- tonal consistency (does it sit in the mix well over the fretboard?)
- tonal character (does it speak to me?)
Craftsmanship, ergonomics, low action etc. are secondary (though they do play a certain role).
Case in point:
The Ibanez Soundgear line is well made (especially at the higher end of the range), easy to play, comfortable instruments, and they also have tonal consistency... but they have little character and bland looks (in my opinion).
Warwick classics (Thumb, Streamer Stage I-II, etc.) are well made, they play well, they have tonal consistency and they also have character... but I don't like the way they look.
A Steinberger whatsitcalled (you know... the one also Geddy Lee used) is well made, has tonal consistency, looks cool in a kitsch '80s way, it's extremely convenient (except for string options...) but it doesn't have much tonal character. Still, it ticks all the other boxes so I still want one.
On the other hand, my cheap Hofner Club is... not well made, has poopie hardware, has low sustain, especially on the G string higher up, it kind of neck-dives but it looks cool, it sits really well in the mix for the kind of stuff I'm playing, it oozes character and I love it.
Well... for me?
- Is it a lefty?
- Do I like it?
Then it's good. Currently, there are 27 basses in my herd that fit that description...
