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What's On Your Workbench?
- Thread starter HaMMerHeD
- Start date
The Birth of Loud by Ian Port is a great source of info if you want to learn about the early days of Fender, Gibson, et al:
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This was supposed to be my new fence for my table saw. Unfortunately, USPS delivered it like this, and the hardware package is lost including the handles and other essential components.
At least the Amazonians are cool with replacing it. Just have to wait a few more weeks for the replacement to get here....
At least the Amazonians are cool with replacing it. Just have to wait a few more weeks for the replacement to get here....
Try calling Delta and telling them about the missing hardware. I've had a couple of their tools show up with missing small parts and they sent replacements quickly. If the Amazon route is going to take a couple weeks that might be faster!
Twas my first call. They are out of stock until April. They were the ones who suggested going back through Amazon.
That's disappointing but I suppose not that surprising in this day and age of supply chain challenges.
- Jul 1, 2005
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To those who use spokeshaves: do you use the straight edged or curved edged ones? And why?
I'm just being curious here. Thanks.
I'm just being curious here. Thanks.
@instrumentalist - I use both, but for different purposes.
I have a flat sole, low angle spokeshave that I do the bulk of neck carving with. It can remove a lot of material quickly, while keeping things fairly flat.
I also have two curved sole shave for finer work on concave curves, mostly around head and heal transitions - one is big, one is very small.
Flat sole can be easier to control, but once you get the feel for it the curved sole is more versatile.
I have a flat sole, low angle spokeshave that I do the bulk of neck carving with. It can remove a lot of material quickly, while keeping things fairly flat.
I also have two curved sole shave for finer work on concave curves, mostly around head and heal transitions - one is big, one is very small.
Flat sole can be easier to control, but once you get the feel for it the curved sole is more versatile.
Now that I re-read your post, I realised you could also be talking about spokeshaves with different shaped blades, for chair making etc.
if that’s the case, stick with straight blade - much easier to sharpen, and more versatile.
if that’s the case, stick with straight blade - much easier to sharpen, and more versatile.
I was thinking primarily about neck shaping, which seemed to me to be the obvious one. But I'm interested to learn what else people use them for.
It took a while, but I correctly wired the stereo/mono switch. As I stated before…my soldering skills have turned to suck and my mind isn’t as sharp either…
A rainy evening, so I have to work in my small corner of the attic.
On the bench is a neck whose nut needs some work.
As you can see, necks don't fit on this "workbench".
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I hope this is okay to ask here - I didn't want to start a new thread...
I'm building an explorer-style bass and I have a sapele blank. I'm going to need to borrow some from another blank, which is fine but will it matter if the centerline does not run parallel with the boards? The blank is actually three boards put together but in order for it to fit I had to tweak it. I attached a pic for reference.
The other body is a stand in to see if thered still be room for another body with the doner corner removed from the blank.
I'm building an explorer-style bass and I have a sapele blank. I'm going to need to borrow some from another blank, which is fine but will it matter if the centerline does not run parallel with the boards? The blank is actually three boards put together but in order for it to fit I had to tweak it. I attached a pic for reference.
The other body is a stand in to see if thered still be room for another body with the doner corner removed from the blank.
It's a bit tough to tell in the picture, but if you glued the part from the second blank offset from the first, so it effectively extended the length of the blank, could you make it run parallel?
EDIT: related question: would it help make it straight if you also cut some off the other side of the first blank (the top left of your picture) and glued it on to the lower horn portion (bottom left of your picture), again, offset?
EDIT2: what about also ripping the blank past where the upper horn ends (a few inches off the right side of the first blank) and re-gluing it offset by a few inches (to the top in your photo). That looks like it would definitely allow you to cut parallel to the centerline.
EDIT: related question: would it help make it straight if you also cut some off the other side of the first blank (the top left of your picture) and glued it on to the lower horn portion (bottom left of your picture), again, offset?
EDIT2: what about also ripping the blank past where the upper horn ends (a few inches off the right side of the first blank) and re-gluing it offset by a few inches (to the top in your photo). That looks like it would definitely allow you to cut parallel to the centerline.
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