TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
. I'm joking, it was surprisingly solid actually as the crack didn't run all the way up or through in places. It was glued up with (black) Epoxy anyway, so it was rock solid after that...but I was tempted to leave it open at one point! It's been finished for 5 months (ish) now and holding up fine.
Time to dive back into building, including finishing up my builds from last years build off. 
I guess I have different processes depending on where the wood comes from. I've found with driftwood, that treatment usually isn't required, as everything is pretty inert at the point of being washed up on the beach. It appears that naturally occurring resins are largely washed away by the time spent in the ocean (and who else knows where) on it's trip to my local beach.
So, for non-driftwood, initially, you soak the plank in a vinegar vat, or spray it down for a week or more? Thanx.I guess I have different processes depending on where the wood comes from. I've found with driftwood, that treatment usually isn't required, as everything is pretty inert at the point of being washed up on the beach. It appears that naturally occurring resins are largely washed away by the time spent in the ocean (and who else knows where) on it's trip to my local beach.
When I first started earnestly building with driftwood, I was actually mostly concerned about salt content, and potential effects with gluing, and also finishing. That and ensuring moisture content was low. I've found that even a waterlogged piece can be bucked up and turned into an 8/4 billet after just a couple of weeks in my backyard. From that point, it will get down to 6-8% in the span of a few weeks, rather than a few years as with felled lumber. I've assumed (perhaps wrongly) that this is also due to the naturally occurring resins being mostly washed away from the timber by the time I get it.
I use epoxy glue, but have found that titebond, along with just about every other kind of glue works just fine with driftwood. Once I use it, and then get the instrument into shape, I soak the driftwood with thinned epoxy. I've recently used a System Three product called "Rot Fix" with good success, and I have some test pieces that were done with PC-Petrifier. I plan to put epoxy and a Tru-Oil finish on them to see if that stuff works equally well. So far, the test pieces are quite hard.
When it comes to found or felled spalted woods, I first soak them with vinegar. Mostly to help harden them, but also to help kill microorganisms. When I use these woods, I soak the boards front and back with thinned epoxy before the glue up. I haven't tried PC-Petrifier for this, but I have a big rotten stump I plan to use, so I'll try it on it. I also soak the edges and sides of routed cavities, and the routed edge of the instrument. Just in case...
I just soak a rag in vinegar and wipe it on the surface, soaking it in. It will then sit stickered for a few months before being used. By the time they are used, they are very dry.
Not exactly on my bench but close enough!
Today I purchased a portion of a shop that I worked at a long time ago. The owner has health issues and is selling out. There is no way I could afford to buy him out (he was a high end acoustic builder of guitars/resonators.banjos/mandolins) totally but he was kind enough to let me go through his inventory and pick out some items...
Several benches and an assortment of tools, parts and (really nice) wood.
View attachment 3131117
View attachment 3131118
I'm wore out but it is a good day...
Moonshine
Far-out! 
