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Whats the difference of woods?

Some of you guys are pretending to be really insulted considering the fact that what was said about snake oil wasn't anywhere near as insulting as some of the garbage that was said about people who only asked for proof.


If you are referring to me, go back and look....I provided proof in the form of scientific studies. I was NEVER insulted by (or insulting to) anyone "asking for proof".
 
mmmk... i apologized. I apologize again. As before, my intended point was that the argument was flawed, not that luthiers aren't wonderful, completely trustworthy people.

I didn't address you at all, so I'm not sure why you are quoting me again.

Now I'd like to take you up on your offers not to read this thread. :rollno:


I said I was done with the conversation that WE were having. As in...it's over, move on.

Never once have I said that I wouldn't "read this thread".
 
Nope, you're busted.

+1

You keep saying things that come across as both very rude and completely underhanded.

At least with most of the people on this board, when it comes to arguing about tone woods, the problems we have seem to come about and center around where and how to prove what we're saying in an empirical and quantitative manner. While some choice words and statements might get thrown around, there at least is mutual respect for each other on some level due to us all being bass players, and, at the end of the day, it's the playing that speaks for us and not just the instrument we're holding.

You just seem to come off as rude in most of your posts.
 
I own 10+ Fodera Monarchs. I have played well over 100 of them. Regardless of the pickups, pickup spacing, electronics, strings or year they were built, ones built with the same kinds of woods sound similar. Yes there are individual variations but there is no mistaking an Ash body / Maple FB Monarch for an Alder body / Rosewood FB Monarch.

Any time any one that does not believe that wood makes a PROFOUND difference (not just a slight difference) in an electric bass' tone wants to come visit us in Brooklyn (please make an appointment) I will be happy to lug several of my Monarchs with identical specs (other than wood) into the shop and let you play them. No, it is not scientific proof (as in a peer reviewed study) -- I too wish there was such a thing -- but the sounds these instruments make are incredibly different and...consistently so. IMHO.
 
Any idea how much the wings of a bass body influence the sound?
Ive seen some weird shapes or no shapes at all and although im convinced that the kind of wood used on a neck and beneath the pickups have an effect oon the sound, im less convinced about the shape:)
 
Any idea how much the wings of a bass body influence the sound?
Ive seen some weird shapes or no shapes at all and although im convinced that the kind of wood used on a neck and beneath the pickups have an effect oon the sound, im less convinced about the shape:)

Short answer to "how much?": it depends. There is no formula for determining this kind of thing.

If you think that on a bass with a center block it will vibrate the same way whether it's attached to wings or not, cool. Otherwise I'm not sure what there is to convince you of.
:cool:
 
I own 10+ Fodera Monarchs. I have played well over 100 of them. Regardless of the pickups, pickup spacing, electronics, strings or year they were built, ones built with the same kinds of woods sound similar. Yes there are individual variations but there is no mistaking an Ash body / Maple FB Monarch for an Alder body / Rosewood FB Monarch.

Any time any one that does not believe that wood makes a PROFOUND difference (not just a slight difference) in an electric bass' tone wants to come visit us in Brooklyn (please make an appointment) I will be happy to lug several of my Monarchs with identical specs (other than wood) into the shop and let you play them. No, it is not scientific proof (as in a peer reviewed study) -- I too wish there was such a thing -- but the sounds these instruments make are incredibly different and...consistently so. IMHO.

I honestly wonder what some of these folks have experienced where they haven't seen this... or maybe I've just played more basses than most.

The differences can be very drastic. And largely repeatable.

>>>can<<<. I'm not saying there are no exceptions to this. Every once in a while I've come across a wood that sounds completely unlike it's type normally would.
 
imho the neck & fingerboard make up say 70% of the basses tone,with the rest being body &/or top woods.This is only related to wood,not electronics,bridge,nut & string material.
I believe a basses tone is a sum of all it's parts combined,& the way they're combined(constructed).First & foremost an electric bass is an acoustic instrument,who's materials(woods) have a direct influence over how it's going to sound.
Just to add that a big part of how any particular tonewood will perform tonally,is also down to how it's been dried,& it's moisture content.
 
i've always thought that the neck is responsible for about 50% and the body, the other 50%. i've swapped a ton of necks and bodies with each other and, IME, the tone doesn't always follow the neck or the body. IMO, there's no real absolute percentage though. the holy grail is getting a great sounding neck, and mounting it on a great sounding body that compliment each other, no matter what woods are used for either.

just my opinion.....................
 
My '96 Warwick Corvette STD has the exact same electronics as my '00 Warwick Corvette STD. The '96 has a bubinga body and all wenge neck. The '00 is an ash body with an ovangkol neck/wenge fb. Same passive p'ups, same strings, same setup, and they sound completely different. The bubinga has more top end and a clearer midrange than the ash. The ash has a nice low mid growl. As for the necks, the only difference is the profile, the ovangkol is like a baseball bat cut in half, where the wenge is very thin like an Ibanez neck. I can feel more of what I'm playing through the '96, and the bubinga/wenge combo resonates for a loooong time. A nice long even note if plucked just so, the ash not so much.
 
So, here's a question then, I'm looking to carve a bass out of a single piece of wood (yes, I know, wasteful, expensive, stupid, but call me a hippie I still want to try) what wood... Would be best? Maple? Walnut? Zebrawood? Exct...
 
So, here's a question then, I'm looking to carve a bass out of a single piece of wood (yes, I know, wasteful, expensive, stupid, but call me a hippie I still want to try) what wood... Would be best? Maple? Walnut? Zebrawood? Exct...

IMO, either maple or mahogany.
BC Rich's early solid body electrics ( i.e. seagull) were made entirely from one single piece of mahogany.
 
So, here's a question then, I'm looking to carve a bass out of a single piece of wood (yes, I know, wasteful, expensive, stupid, but call me a hippie I still want to try) what wood... Would be best? Maple? Walnut? Zebrawood? Exct...

I used tiger maple planks for my one-piece "mini" bodies.

If you mean the making the entire instrument out of one piece of wood (ala Paul Tutmarc's all walnut one-piece Audiovox #736 electric bass of 1935), I'm thinking of doing that but in maple.
 
Wonder if someone's got one of those Yamaha RBX A2 to chime in... those basses' bodies ain't made of wood. How would that compare to a wooden RBX?

Oh contrair, Balsa w/ a laminated veneer. The AIR tubes through body do add a modicum of hollow-body (sans soundhole) tonality though, through body strings being an influence with this particular instrument as well.