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I like the maple board as you see in my avatar. But it's not as sharp as something like ebony. If you like that mellow tone you'll like it. If you want a more modern punch I'd go with the Franklin.
Since the OP seems to have the budget for 70's vintage bass it may not matter. but the AllParts ebony fret board neck is really good and it is Precision dimensions and if you are opposed to a PJ configurtion, then get a loaded American P body from Stratosphere. Comparable to the TF neck. MIJ, Won't have the provenance and you still have to waterslide the headstock
I’d go with the Tony Franklin without hesitation due to its bridge pickup, ebony fingerboard and alder body. Those are the classic ingredients for a great fretless tone.
I have worn out a fretless fretboard. It was Rosewood, using stainless steel strings, and it took 10+ years of daily play and being a primary touring instrument. Not really an issue.
If I may - you can get a Kiesel, A-Stock USA made for well under $2500
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P-Bass --- $1749
4 String --- $0
K - Kiesel Bass Bridge --- $0
340 - 34" Scale Length --- $0
ALD - Alder Body --- $0
BST - Black Burst Edges --- $50
CS - Satin Matte Finish --- $0
CH4 - Classic Style Headstock --- $0
NPH - Non-Painted Headstock --- $0
5ML - 5-Piece Maple Neck w/ 2 Black Limba Stripes --- $250
TN - Tung Oil Neck --- $0
TCB - Black Truss Rod Cover --- $0
EF - Ebony Fingerboard --- $0
20F - 20 Frets --- $0
NIN - No Top Inlays - Side Dots Only --- $0
R14 - Bass 14" Fingerboard Radius --- $0
F - Fretless Fingerboard --- $50
SCPN - Replace Neck Pickup With SCP Split-Coil Pickup --- $0
400 - Black Pickup Coils --- $0
BC - Black Hardware --- $0
BL - Black Logo --- $0
BLN - Black Graph Tech TUSQ Nut --- $0
SL - Dunlop Straplocks --- $30
BPB - Black Rear Electronics Cavity Cover --- $0
RP - Red Tortoise Pickguard --- $20
SC8 - Black Ultimate Soft Bass Case --- $0
SUBTOTAL: $2149
Thank you all for your input.
I'd like to adress some points you folks mentioned.
First of all, I own a fretless 6 string with an ebony fingerboard. So I have that wood at home. I have maple fingerboard basses, fretted, different animal though. A fretless is not my daily driver, so yes, I might be too concerned with wear. It's just that I can't estimate real life wear wit anything other than ebony.
Soundwise I reckon that the pu switch with the added j pu are definitely a valid point for the TF.
Still on the fence though
Thank you again for your thoughts.
there's some good threads about coated fingerboards (CA vs mirror Coat epoxy which seems to be preferred to marine epoxy) and tone and why fretlesses are finicky. There wa s also a thread i can't find by somebody who had 2 TF's but not at the same time and he/she like one much better, but can't remember why
I have a Squier CV ‘60s fretless Jazz, and I’m trying to decide whether to coat the fingerboard (which is Indian laurel). Not to preserve it, just for the tone - I do love the mwah.
I use rounds, with SD Antiquity II pickups, and action as low as I can without buzzing, and I have decent technique (I believe), and I can get good mwah, but can’t help wondering whether a coated board would enhance it.
Anyone have any experience of the difference it makes? And whether what you use (epoxy, superglue, poly) makes a difference to the sound?
Hey, the TF arrived today and I'm….puzzled to say the least.
For you folks who are experienced with the TF:
In the both pu position, the bass becomes almost unusable: there's definitely a drop in volume and the sound becomes rather thin with the g and d strings exclusively. The e and a strings remain more or less as loud as in the other two positions.
In the neck or bridge position, the g and d strings sound fine. Is the bass really dialed in that way or did I get a crappy piece?
Thanks.