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Which Neo Cabs Go Deep? Single Cab Options?

Step-down mode requires eq plus the power handling falls quite a bit. It’s a trade off between extension and power handling (versus SPL)
Absolutely, but I seem to remember the 3015LF in that enclosure being forgiving enough in this respect. Plus, I now seem to remember the retuning was not actually obtained through blocking part of the shelf port, but extending the shelf some, to a precise amount (a procedure whose effect was detailed in the fF plans - unfortunately, I can't produce them nor direct you guys to where they could be found, I'm just going from menory).
 
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Step-down mode requires eq plus the power handling falls quite a bit. It’s a trade off between extension and power handling (versus SPL)


Sealed cabinets are less efficient at low frequencies. The F3 extension is greater with a ported cabinet of similar size.
You can't make a ported cabinet of similar size, that does the same thing.

But, you already know that horse.
 
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Absolutely, but I seem to remember the 3015LF in that enclosure being forgiving enough in this respect. Plus, I now seem to remember the retuning was not actually obtained through blocking part of the shelf port, but extending the shelf some, to a precise amount (a procedure whose effect was detailed in the fF plans - unfortunately, I can't produce them nor direct you guys to where they could be found, I'm just going from memory).

That's correct. The precise amount was whatever the builder measured and liked. ;) Just tweaking box tuning by 2Hz or so (measured) was very audible in my testing with one of the first 12/6 builds.
 
The Eminence DeltaLite 2510 II is a good driver for deep and loud bass, but you will have to do an EBS or step down enclosure. (Longer bass reflex ports for lower resonanse, and adding back deep bass on the amp.
It is also a driver that works in a fairly large span of cabinet sizes, and has high sensitivity.

But it is costly.
 
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I have the GR Bass AT210. It's carbon fiber instead of wood so it's crazy light and the frequency response is all the way down at 35hz which is pretty low for a 2x10. I high pass it at around 50hz so the low FR is not really an selling point for me but it's nice to know it's there. It's also rated for 600 watts RMS so it can handle more power than I'll ever throw at it.
 
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I've used a few of the Baer cabs that have blown me away. I used a Baer 1/15 with horn box in a big room, loud band. Big and deep all the way in the back. I used the Baer 2/12 outside on a Football field. Soundman on 50yd line was asking me afterwards what I was using. He was amazed at the low end coming off the stage. I was also using an older Eden head that puts out big lows. So the amp and power you use is a big factor as well.
 
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That's correct. The precise amount was whatever the builder measured and liked. ;) Just tweaking box tuning by 2Hz or so (measured) was very audible in my testing with one of the first 12/6 builds.
I meant that, according to my memory at least, one precise amount of shelf extension and consequent lowering in tuning was specified as an alternative, with a relevant freq response chart provided, in the plans/website (as opposed to a vague "adjust to taste", which is of course valid in and of itself). I may be misremembering though.
 
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No no no.. Lol.. Hpf neo cabs.. Send lows to pa.. Put a limiter on those lows.. Old skool dub used an 810 and a lowpass filter.. To synthesize a quick 18 sub.. Neos are better now.. But it's going to be expensive.. To the lows you want.. And you'll pop a speaker.. I have all those dub style effects.. So please listen.. If you want to use lows- hpf and low pass.. On cheap cabs.. And put your reg bass sound hpf.. Thru a good cab..
 
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This is what I really like about my EBS Neo 212s. It's a bigger enclosure than most 212s, but they have an amazingly deep transparent voicing. One carries a club venue, no problem. Expensive, though.
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Even on my dual Barefaced BB3 cabs, I HPF the crap outta my signal. I use my power amps DSP (crown xls-1502 or 2502) HPF set at 30hz. No need wasting power on what I cannot hear.

My pedalboard has several hpfs. I run one at the beginning of the chain (broughton always on HPF). No need on having pedals reacting to subsonics that will be filtered out. I also have a broughton hpf/lpf at the end of my pedalboard right before my comp. It is essentially used as a slight level booster and a cab sim to roll off highs and lows as desired. My preamp (mesa subway+ di has an hpf too. I use it to dial out mud when live. Some rooms and stages are super muddy. A little hpf can go a long way.

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I have both an Acme B2 and a Bergantino NXT212.
They both have a ton of low end, especially when I kick on my octave pedal.
I do use the HPF on my amp, so YMMV.

I'm close-ish to you, so PM me if you ever want to check either of them out.

There's also a killer Schroeder 1215L cab on [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]right now.
That would be worth checking out for sure.
 
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Sealed cabs go deeper actually. It's far more efficient. The roll off is less at all frequencies. A port only makes the frequency it's tuned to louder.
I thought this was the case but I wasn't confident enough to say so. I believe that in home theater audio sealed subs are preferred for this reason. You go ported if you need to trade volume for depth to achieve a perceived louder sub.

That said, for a bass guitar application that trade might make sense.
 
Title says it all, any thoughts? And yes, talking reggae/dub deep at "medium" size venues. We usually have PA support outdoors (our system), but occasionally (at certain venues) there is no "sub" provided with the on-site PA. Liked my old Eden D410XLT, it came close by itself, but 100 pounds, yikes.

Is it true that most non-ported cabs lack the ability to go deep? Random question

Thanks
You should check out the DNA gear. David Nordschow was the founder of Eden and after he sold it and left, he started DNA. He designed your D410XLT. I have two of his cabs. I have a DNS-210 cab that I bought in 1969 when I was accepted into the DNA Endorsing Artist Group and I also have his DNS-410 that I bought back in 2015. Both of them will go low. The DNS-410 will go down to 37Hz and the DNS-210 will go down to 34Hz. Both have a really tight and well defined bottom end and both are absolutely clear and LOUD. I found out I could just use the DNS-210 for all my indoor gigs small to large, and just pull out my DNS-410 for outdoor venues and music festivals.

My DNS-210 is 8Ω as is my DNS-410. I usually use my DNA-800 into the DNS-210 delivering a max of 400-watts rms and it's more than enough. It will also run my DNS-410 with just 400 of its 800-watts just fine. Still I have my big Eden amp that bridges at 800-watts into 8Ω if I want to pull that out at a music festival.

The DNS cabs that David came up with for DNA are the next step up from the XST cabs he made. If you decide on one of those, I'd suggest you bump up your low mids at either 250Hz or 500Hz to get a sound very similar to your XLT but clearer. And that's going some because Eden cabs are darn clear.

The [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] weighs 51-lbs and street price is ~$849 new. However, it has replaced my 410 indoors so 51-lbs isn't that much. Click on the name to see the specs and read more about it.

Then [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] weighs 79-lbs and street price seems to run between $1149 and $1249 new. Got mine for $999.99 in 2015. Click on the name to see the specs and read more about this one too. I thought it would be the last cab I bought...right up until small venues like brewpubs forced me to use their backline which was typically a 112 combo. Now I use my 210 for most places.

RE: Random Question - I don't know for sure. Cabs I've had that went low are/were all ported cabs.
 
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I thought this was the case but I wasn't confident enough to say so. I believe that in home theater audio sealed subs are preferred for this reason. You go ported if you need to trade volume for depth to achieve a perceived louder sub.

That said, for a bass guitar application that trade might make sense.
Yup.

Bass guitar doesn't produce sub frequencies loud enough to really matter, but ports eat power, take up unnecessary space, mask other frequencies, make things loose and flubby, and sound like a roto hammer at loud volumes.

The way to go is reflex radiators. You can make a cab the size of a sealed box, and tune it with a passive cone, to acheive the same low end bump as a ported box. But smaller, more efficient, and elimate chuffing completely.