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Which shortscale?

#121
Dust2Dust said:
I stand corrected then.

Based on that, maybe that's why I can't play "Money" (Pink Floyd) on my P Bass but I can on my J Bass or any of the others. :thumbsdown: (All Squier CV)

On my P Bass, my pinky finger doesn't quite stretch far enough to properly fret the B on the G string (4th fret) and I get fret buzz and it drives me crazy
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Are we talking about 34" scale P's and J's?

Perhaps your problem with fretting on a P bass is created not just because of the 34" scale but also because of the overall width of the neck. A typical P bass has a much wider and perhaps deeper neck than your J bass. The typical P bass has a width of 1.75" at the nut whereas the typical J bass is 1.5" at the nut. For some, especially those with smaller hands, the width of the P bass can cause issues.
 
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#123
:):)
Dust2Dust said:
Yes, a 70s Classic Vibe P , and a 60s Classic Vibe J

I just researched the two, and you are right.

Both 34", but with different nut widths.

Its bazaar that that small of a difference can mess me up so bad :thumbsdown:

Edit: Thanks, btw :thumbsup:
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My pleasure. You may enjoy the Sterling Short Scale Stingray. It has a 1.5" nut. The neck is a little deeper than a typical C but it is a very easy bass to play. I have the maple neck, Daphne blue Stingray and, initially, I really was enjoying the thinner neck. I can't remember the profile but it's probable a 10" but initially it was a fun bass. Over time, it just started to feel more toy like.

My other 34" scale basses have 1.67" and 1.75" width necks and I just feel more at home with those dimensions. I've never been a fan if the 1.5" J bass width but that's just me. So, the minute I got my hands on the Fallout, I was right there in my comfort zone with a neck that was roughly 1.67" wide with a C shape. Hence, my strong, positive feelings about the bass.

There are other issues that can potentially come into play, one of which is neck radius. All of my basses tend to be 9.5" or 10" while I know there are many who swear by 7.25," a more classic radius. That's especially the case with guitars. I have an American Original '50's Tele that, when it first was released in 2018, many were criticizing because the neck radius was 9.5" while the American Vintage models that had come before all had 7.25" neck radii. Again, whatever makes you comfortable. Everyone has their likes and dislikes. I love the chunky neck on my AO and wouldn't trade it for anything. Go figure!:)
 
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#124
Spupilup said:
:):)

My pleasure. You may enjoy the Sterling Short Scale Stingray. It has a 1.5" nut. The neck is a little deeper than a typical C but it is a very easy bass to play. I have the maple neck, Daphne blue Stingray and, initially, I really was enjoying the thinner neck. I can't remember the profile but it's probable a 10" but initially it was a fun bass. Over time, it just started to feel more toy like.

My other 34" scale basses have 1.67" and 1.75" width necks and I just feel more at home with those dimensions. I've never been a fan if the 1.5" J bass width but that's just me. So, the minute I got my hands on the Fallout, I was right there in my comfort zone with a neck that was roughly 1.67" wide with a C shape. Hence, my strong, positive feelings about the bass.

There are other issues that can potentially come into play, one of which is neck radius. All of my basses tend to be 9.5" or 10" while I know there are many who swear by 7.25," a more classic radius. That's especially the case with guitars. I have an American Original '50's Tele that, when it first was released in 2018, many were criticizing because the neck radius was 9.5" while the American Vintage models that had come before all had 7.25" neck radii. Again, whatever makes you comfortable. Everyone has their likes and dislikes. I love the chunky neck on my AO and wouldn't trade it for anything. Go figure!:)
Click to expand...

I never actually meant to criticize the Fallout. It's just that OP said he needed something small for a cramped stage and all I ever heard (and saw in the review) was that the Fallout was a "Full-size bass", (with a short scale).

It probably, doesn't matter though. I've seen lots of threads like this of people asking advice but then go buy something completely different from everything mentioned (like, in this case, I'm half expecting OP to get a Gretsch Junior Jet):thumbsup:

Gretsch G2220 Junior Jet Bass II - Walnut Stain
 
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#125
Dust2Dust said:
I never actually meant to criticize the Fallout. It's just that OP said he needed something small for a cramped stage and all I ever heard (and saw in the review) was that the Fallout was a "Full-size bass", (with a short scale).

It probably, doesn't matter though. I've seen lots of threads like this of people asking advice but then go buy something completely different from everything mentioned (like, in this case, I'm half expecting OP to get a Gretsch Junior Jet):thumbsup:

You may be right!

I will say this, I played in a lot of dives back in the ‘70’s and ‘80’s before putting my instruments aside but I cannot remember any place I ever played in being so small as to require the purchase of a smaller bass to accommodate the circumstances. That’s wild!

Gretsch G2220 Junior Jet Bass II - Walnut Stain
Click to expand...
 
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#135
LowEndLobster just sent me his CNZ short scale jazz that he has all modded out, and I can't say that I've ever played a better short scale. Such a fun little bass, and it's 28.6" scale, so even smaller than any of the other one's you've mentioned. He said it was incredible stock (and only $200 new), but these mods take it to a whole other level.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cpst20DAbF3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
 
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#139
totalnoob said:
Lobster's review is damning. Cheap/poor hardware, PVC nut, poor QC, terrible setup, pickups wired out of phase. TBH, I am not sure where all that money went. Seems almost as if Glarry made them.
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It's $380. If I buy a new bass in that price range, I'm planning on putting another $150-200 into it to get it where I want it. None of those issues are expensive fixes. His second video with upgraded bridge and tuners is fine, but a new nut and fixing the phase issue would have been higher priority and also much cheaper.
 
#140
beggar98 said:
It's $380. If I buy a new bass in that price range, I'm planning on putting another $150-200 into it to get it where I want it. None of those issues are expensive fixes. His second video with upgraded bridge and tuners is fine, but a new nut and fixing the phase issue would have been higher priority and also much cheaper.
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yeh i love lobsters videos but it's important to keep in mind 1-qc issues at that price point, some might be duds, some might be gems. i got a fantastic classic vibe late 60s jazz, lobster got a dud 2-people have different opinions/preferences/priorities .. i think the ibanez sr300 is a great bass for the price, lobster disagrees. i also can't seem to get a sterling bass without deal breaking issues no matter how many i try, while lobster seems to get all the good ones

that epiphone piqued my interest despite lobsters negative review. i want to try one out and make up my own mind. that being said i've generally been disappointed with epiphone axes
 
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