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Who wouldn't want a 6 - string fretless?

Looks good as always. :)


I don't think routing aluminum is a problem at all. As long as you don't get any kickback or chattering you should be fine. Aluminum seems to me less abrasive and not much harder than some of the woods we normally use routers on.

Just be careful so that the bit doesn't dig in and knock apart the glue between aluminum and wood.


edit: It must be said that I haven't tried using routers on aluminum like this myself, but I have head of people doing is with success.

Thanks Smilodon, sounds reasonable. I didn't plan to rout any aluminum, but it looks like I will be :p

Routing aluminum is safe as long as you are working with a thin thickness. You will certainly do some amount of damage to your bits but if you cut your pieces close to the line you wont have a ton of material to remove and should be ok. I would still suggest always wearing sleeves and safety goggles though.

Thanks B, I'm feeling better about it already. o yes! safety first, I like having fingers, eyes, good hearing,etc. no worrys there.

I've also cut lots of aluminum sheet goods on the tablesaw by turning the blade around backwards so the hooks of the teeth arent bashing into the metal. Obviously you should use an older blade but you might be surprised how well it works. I've not tried climb cutting aluminum with a router but that might get you a cleaner cut as well.

That's a neat trick, I may have to try it.



I really appreciate the info guys! :D
 
Looks great man!! :hyper: Can't wait for the end result!!

If I may give you a small advice : If you're going to take off some more bodywood, don't take off too much of the 2 horns, otherwise they will be very thin. I would recommend only the right side (as we're facing now on this photo) of the drawing of the horn. This way it's still stable to let your strap hang on.

I think those lines are where the body will be carved and rounded-over/beveled, not cut all the way through.

Yes, those lines are rough contouring marks just as TheJoshinator stated.

Good looking out Mr_Music90 and thank you for paying such close attention to the details. .:D.
 
OVERDUE UP DATE………..

Let’s talk about pick up covers…

There were a few things that had to be considered for these covers, my client wants all the parts on this bass to blend in, and that meant matching the covers to the neck lams. There’s not much tolerances for width so that the pick-up cavities don’t run into the control cavity and still have an acceptable amount of wood between them. The tops need be only thick enough to counter sink the pick-up mounting screws yet strong enough for years of adjustments.

Now where did I put the cut-offs from the neck… Ah here they are…

I chose to use a jewelry box construction style on these covers; the tops of the covers will be made from the body angle cut-off making it a near perfect match, the neck and bridge sides will be made from the back of the neck cut-off. Then both ends will be capped with sapele. I chose the jewelry box construction style because I felt it would yield the best results in keeping all sides of the cover thin yet structurally sound and would be the easiest way to keep the lams lined up.

So I started by adding some wenge lams to match the body area of the pick-ups location using super glue. To prevent the lams from separating and add a little strength, I then glued this piece to some walnut veneer perpendicular to the lams, (like ply wood) using Tight Bond.

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The back of the neck cut-off was thicker than the body angle wedge… so the cover sides, (neck and bridge side) can be sanded to thickness, (3/32”) and cut to size. On the other hand, the tops were still a bit thin, measuring around 1/16”. That is most definitely not thick enough to counter sink the mounting screw heads, so I glued on some more walnut to the underside of the tops giving a final thickness of 1/8” ish.
While this was gluing up in clamps, I pulled out a scraps of pine and cut it into two blocks the same size as the actual pick-ups (+ 1/32” I think, for the solder connections on the bottom). These blocks will be used as mock pick-ups to build the covers around. Once the blocks where sized, I attached them to some melamine board with double side tape. Next, a heavy coat of past wax goes on to make sure the glue dose not stick to the mock-up blocks. As I continued to wait for glue to dry, I got this cut-off -

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-and sliced it up to use the sapele for the end caps.
With the glue dry, all the parts were cut and sanded to size, then dry fitted. Time for assembly; one piece at a time taking extra care to keep alignment of the lams. Yes… I know… I could have/should have taken more pics of this, but I didn’t… and now my camera is dead. And the glue up.
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Once the glued cured, the covers were shaped and sanded. Then the cavities where routed by placing the covers in their proper location on the body and double side taping, (I used a lot of tape, I didn’t want any movement) MDF blocks around them.

I did have pics of this process,(and the wooden bridge) and the covers in the bass when my camera cashed to the ground and now I have no idea how to get the pics off the memory card, the card is not compatible with my computer, so… I’m afraid those pics may be lost. I’ll try to get a new pic and post it as soon as I can.

Well now, the future owner of this bass needed to make some decisions, but was tied up in the studio for a bit, so I finally got him to the shop this weekend and those decisions were made.

Now I can continue on and complete this bass. A couple more parts will be ordered on Tuesday (as well as a new camera .:D.) and body carving will begin this week.

I will also do a new pictorial of making the bridge and get everybody up to speed in time for finish sanding, in till next time…

Happy Fathers day and Happy Building. .:smug:.
 
Smilodon, I’ll have bridge pics in my next post; tonight or tomorrow night, (well my night anyway).

Not a lot of time to chat, but I got my new camera (:hyper:) so here comes a whole lot of pics of body contours and carves, heel transition, and a full pic with pick-up covers, hope you like them…


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Heel transition…
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Yes, I do use a grinder to do a good bit of this, as well as flapper wheels (in my cordless drill), an orbital sander, rasps, files, sand paper and the occasional scraper.

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Belly carve… this has got to be the hardest thing for me to photograph well.
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Last, the pick-up covers in the bass…
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That’s it for now folks… Till next time, Happy Building. .:).
 
I like your new camera. Better not make any mistakes because we'll see them all now. :smug:


It's also nice to see someone else using an angle grinder to do neck heels. Makes me feel a bit less crazy. ;)

The build seems to be coming along nicely as well. You also gave me some inspiration for pickup covers as well. (If i go that route. Still haven't decided.)
 
Ok folks, I got this bridge done but didn't get a chance to post before participating in my best friend’s wedding …

So here’s the floating wood bridge… ready?

Lams: sapele, purplehart, black veneer, purplehart, wenge (center), repeat.


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Glue up.

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After cleaning it up I have a blank about ¾” x ½” x 6”

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It’s all about the jig… a scrap piece of decent plywood with a 13° angled grove cut on one side and a 26° angled grove cut on the other and stop blocks glued at one end.

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Using some paperback double side tape I secure the bridge side to the angled grove of the jig with the (B for bottom) bottom touching the straight side wall.

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Set the drum sander, and start pushing it through until I hit the last purplehart veneer lam. I’m going for a 1/8” peek that will be fine tuned in set up.

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Now, I just flip it to the 26° side and repeat.

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Next I put a crown on it with my little radius sanding block.

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Time for some decorative flare.

First I mark the ends 1/8” up from the bottom, then using a circle template; I’ll mark one eighth of a 2” diameter circle from the 1/8” mark to the top…

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Using the jig to keep the almost a bridge stable, it’s over to the spindle sander…

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With both sides done… let’s check it out on the bass…

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I like it, a little sanding with 220 and that’s it for now.

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Well, it’s almost time for finish sanding, so until next time, you now it… Happy Building. .:D.