So it looks like I didnt get any pics of the completion process of the cavity cover and I missed a few other photo ops, I was working on the cavity cover, PU covers and the string retainer/ferrule thingy all at the same time. I still have a good bit of pics of it all, just not so much step by step. Ill do my best to fill in the pic blanks with words.
Here we go
Typically I rough cut the intended cavity cover wood, then double side tape the to the template and flush trim it on the router table followed by epoxing the rough cut aluminum backing and file flush. For whatever reason I did it different this time, Im not sure if it was the best way of going about it, but it went quickly and without any problems.
This time, I epoxied both rough cut parts together before either had been flush trimmed and could only come up with one way to get a perfect fit. (Some of you may know where this is going already) I tried to reach out to some folks I thought would know better about this situation, but could not get a timely reply. So after my little story, if anyone has some pros/cons or knows a better yet similar way to do this, Please let me know. I would like to continue this method in the future, as I said it was quick and accurate.
Moving on
I had thought to myself, its only soft aluminum and its only 1/32 thick, eh, lets see what happens
So I broke out my el-cheap-o woodworkers first router bit set (that had boasted carbide tips on the box when I bought them) and set up the router table with the flush trim bit. I also set up some blockades to try to keep the inevitable metal shavings from spreading all around the shop and outfitted myself with every piece of safety protection/equipment I possess. Double side taped the cover to my template (HEAVILY) and ran it through, making shallow passes until the cover was flush with the template. It came out wonderfully.
Now if someone with more experience than I with such a thing could/would tell me that what I did was just fine that would be great. If not, what would be the right way to do it? What would be the right router bit to use, etc.?
I kind of skipped a few things that were happening simultaneously so I could tell the whole story.
Meanwhile
back when the cavity cover wood was being epoxied to the backing, I began constructing the string retainer, Im not sure what to call it really.
Another story, Im getting to the pics I swear.
First off, Im sure this string retainer thingy has been done, but Ive not seen it done the same way (mostly wood), so for me its a new Idea (but Id love to see other versions if you know one). The story goes
Im a big fan of string through construction; Im quite fond of individual string bridges and wood bridges. No matter the bridge choice, it needs to be grounded and that ground needs to be carried through the strings, but Im not really in to a brass nut or some of the other bridge grounding options. After thinking about this for a long time (were talking months) I finally came up with this. Its simple really, A rectangular block of wood wide enough to accommodate string spacing plus two #3 screws with a 1/16 piece of brass flat bar epoxied to the bottom giving it a total thickness of ½. Now lets see it get made.
To make this string retainer blend, I cut a suitable piece from the neck excess a little more than ¾ wide. Knowing this will be a top veneer I used super glue to complete the needed wenge and sapele lams. Then glued and clamped this to a strip of sapele.
Once the glue had cured, I epoxied the brass to the bottom.
After clean up and checking for square, its to the drill press with an elaborate set of MDF blocks and a 7/64drill bit. As a block is taken away, it gives me the next drilling location, X 8.
Then set the blocks up again and drill for the six string holes with a 11/64 bit.
From here Im ready to route a cavity in the back of the bass. I mounted the string retainer in position with some double stick tape, (I use a lot of this stuff) and wrapped it with some cuts of MDF, only this time I used small dots of glue to assure they dont move.
With the string retainer still taped down and in the blocks, I took the bass to the drill press and followed through the string holes with the 11/64 bit into the body.
Next I carefully pulled the string retainer out and routed a ½ deep cavity, then, knocked off the blocks.
Back to the drillpress with the string retainer to bore out the string holes to 5/16, stopping just on top of the brass.
All thats left is to round off the corners, droop it in and have a look at it in place with that cavity cover.
I left everything a bit proud so I can sand it all down flush later.
Thats it for this installment.
Sadly, my camera died today, but we still have pick-up covers to see and a bridge before I run out of pics
so I'll try to get all that up before long.
Heres the quote
In till next time .
. Building.
. Thanks.
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Can't wait for the end result!!
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