Think he meant "Pheesible."Feezibal?![]()
Again, the skinny wires in the cab only power one or two speakers each, which is fine.
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Think he meant "Pheesible."Feezibal?![]()
All you guys who want 1200watts into a 2 ohm load...
I hope you know what you're asking.
.

Bridge mode is only of value with a higher impedance load, a higher impedance load means less current, and therefore a lower gauge cable could be used.One even suggested a higher gauge when running bridge mode.
Bridge mode is only of value with a higher impedance load, a higher impedance load means less current, and therefore a lower gauge cable could be used.
Not what I said. What I said was bridge mode (series bridging, to be concise) is only of value with a higher impedance load. When the load is of a high enough impedance that running stereo won't give adequate voltage to drive the speaker to full output, as is often the case at 16 ohms, series bridging will double the available output voltage. For the same power dissipation a 16 ohm load will run at half the current of an 8 ohm load, so a smaller wire gauge could be used. If the impedance load is low enough that the amp can deliver adequate voltage for full output there's no advantage to series bridging, but the doubled voltage capability would make it easier to toast drivers, so bridging is a no-win option. Parallel bridging is a different matter of course, but very few power amps offer the parallel bridging option.Nope.... bridge mode takes the SAME current as the minimum load on either channel..
I don't either.
But......
Take 1200W, which is very 'normal" to find in an amp these days......
at 2 ohms, the voltage is about 50V rms. The safety agencies would say that is "hazardous", but it's really not so bad.
at 4 ohms, the voltage is 70 volts rms..... starting to get to where it can give you a good jolt.
at 8 ohms, almost 100V, which is mains voltage in some countries. obviously a potential issue.
At 16 ohms, 1200 watts corresponds to 138V rms, which is higher than US mains voltage. Any safety agency would say that needed to be in a plug like a Speakon, or other 'safe" plug with non-accessible contacts.
100V would be viewed the same way, and at 16 ohms, is "only" 600W. lots of 600W amps around.
The whole thing comes about because while a tube amp can have its transformer wound for almost any voltage, an SS amp has limits because the transistors need to be rated for at least 3X the output rms voltage.
So speakers have gotten to be lower and lower impedances to allow high power with reasonable voltage ratings.
The electric company goes the OTHER way...... they distribute power at high voltage because it is more efficient. Ditto for the "70volt" PA systems used for many applications.
You will pretty much always have larger losses when the same power is sent at lower voltage. 8 ohm, and 4 ohm speakers are likely in teh 'sweet spot" for sensible voltage and yet less loss.
Two ohms is pretty much at the inefficient end of the range. But there isn't anything dangerous about it if the amp is rated for it.
Bridge mode is only of value with a higher impedance load, a higher impedance load means less current, and therefore a lower gauge cable could be used.

You should read this:I'd just like to point out that this gets run at 2 ohms.
Link Removed
.
Not what I said. What I said was bridge mode (series bridging, to be concise) is only of value with a higher impedance load. When the load is of a high enough impedance that running stereo won't give adequate voltage to drive the speaker to full output, as is often the case at 16 ohms, series bridging will double the available output voltage.
why not just the proper cable? Speakon!
In my experience and that hundreds of users of my subs, who also would have been unaware of how to properly place subs if I didn't include instructions, including boundary loading and room mode information, in the sub plans. Said instructions should be included in the owner's manuals of every pro-sound sub, but...The article suggests clustering the subs in a single location. In your experience, has that worked better for indoor venues than having the subs spread apart?
Thanks.
