I’m not sure I quite follow you, but I think I know what you’re meaning.Could be, it would depend on how they do the work.
Is it tricky to cut the boards and then remove them before the fret slots are cut?
In my opinion
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I’m not sure I quite follow you, but I think I know what you’re meaning.Could be, it would depend on how they do the work.
Is it tricky to cut the boards and then remove them before the fret slots are cut?
Yeah I got your point.I’m not sure I quite follow you, but I think I know what you’re meaning.
In my opinion, I’m saying all boards are precut then one goes on way for frets and the other goes the other way for fillers, if that makes sense
This is true. However, for those of us with flawless pitch, as I'm a professional classical violinist as well, it is just about looking at where your finger will go BEFORE you make the sound, so you don't get fired in a paid recording session for wasting everybody's time in a big jump or shift, or when starting a new phrase... where you CAN'T listen to the note first, have no visual point of reference, and being 15 cents out (which is nearly inaudble in 4th/5th position) is a fireable offence.A surprising amount of bass players are tone deaf it would seem. Just look at the Tab requests for simple 3 chord songs. Those people need to be able to count frets in order to play a song. So not only do they need to look at the fingerboard, They also need to look at their laptop screen at the same time.
I think it's just the separate histories of these instruments. I have a feeling that most of the advancements of violin family instruments had to do with making them louder and more expressive. The viola da gamba had frets, but they were made from gut strings, tied around the back of the neck. They were movable, and players would tune them for playing in different keys. Some instruments had double frets in order to handle key changes. Movable frets also let you build an instrument without knowing quite where the bridge is going to end up.I always assumed classical stringed instruments are unlined because you are reading off sheet music...
A guitarist friend of mine said that he found our mutual friend's unlined fretless easier to play than my lined. If had two electric unlined in the intervening period - easy enough in 34". It's 32" that does my head inAs a non professional bass player that could easily be classified as a hobbyist, I really appreciate the lines on a fretless bass. But from an aesthetics standpoint, there are few things in the musical world more beautiful than an unlined Ebony (or dark Rosewood) bass guitar, such a classic and clean look without all those frets or fret lines or face dots to junk up the beauty of the bass.
I built this one about a year ago, and to me it looks like pure sex…
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My current two fretless BGs are 34 and 34 1/2, and the one I had for forty years was 33 1/2...A guitarist friend of mine said that he found our mutual friend's unlined fretless easier to play than my lined. If had two electric unlined in the intervening period - easy enough in 34". It's 32" that does my head in
LOL - imagine how much fun an unlined fretless multi scale (Dingwall fanned fret style) bass would be.A guitarist friend of mine said that he found our mutual friend's unlined fretless easier to play than my lined. If had two electric unlined in the intervening period - easy enough in 34". It's 32" that does my head in
Well, there goes my chance of sleeping tonight.LOL - imagine how much fun an unlined fretless multi scale (Dingwall fanned fret style) bass would be.![]()
Another option is you take a pencil and mark them. Almost invisible to the audience. I did it on my first unlined. It's reversible. But I could just put another bass against it and mark as they were both 34". I've not got as far as calculating it for the 32".If the undeniable visual appeal (depending on the wood, plain maple is kind of boring visually) of a blank board is the primary consideration, there are “hybrid” approaches like the Stradi single cuts, that have a series of very small inlaid dots in a sort of ascending pattern that’s kind of beautiful in its own right. The other approach is the markers cut in just to the top 1/4” or so of the top fretboard edge, though that still leaves you approximating any double stops. I have a Warmouth Fretless Frankenjazz that has an ebony board with inlaid maple at the fret lines, intonated so fingering just behind the lines is in tune. It has dots in the traditional positions too, but it doesn’t seem to bother me much.
Your brain is more flexible than mine.My current two fretless BGs are 34 and 34 1/2, and the one I had for forty years was 33 1/2...![]()
Should be 33 1/3 for album tracksMy current two fretless BGs are 34 and 34 1/2, and the one I had for forty years was 33 1/2...![]()
Dunno about that, but the vast majority of my playing time has been on fretless basses for over 50 years. I started on one in 1972 and basically never looked back.Your brain is more flexible than mine.
Scale length changes i find very hardDunno about that, but the vast majority of my playing time has been on fretless basses for over 50 years. I started on one in 1972 and basically never looked back.
Here you are. Bass the World reviewed it. I can’t recall which of their stable of monsters played it for the video, but he seemed to manage OK.LOL - imagine how much fun an unlined fretless multi scale (Dingwall fanned fret style) bass would be.![]()
If it was Frank he probably scowled at it until it submittedHere you are. Bass the World reviewed it. I can’t recall which of their stable of monsters played it for the video, but he seemed to manage OK.