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WHY ARE WE STILL USING 1/4" JACKS!

I really don't want a locking jack on my bass, that's just an accident waiting to happen.
At best a broken cable, at worst wood ripped out of the body or the bass broken from falling to the floor.


+1

Locking jacks on my instruments? No thanks!
I have one that came with a locking jack, and it's a royal pain in the arse, because of course I forget it's locking and I always pull and pull before I remember.

If someone pulls my cable when I'm using it, I'd rather it gets unplugged than have a broken cable.
 
I used an instrument cable as speaker cable for about 5 years. Had no problems, and didn't notice any difference in tone when I did eventually replace it with a speaker cable.
.


You must have played not very loudly... a standard instrument cable will heat up rather rapidly with the kind of voltages a typical bass amp will output at a gig... and finally melt. They are not designed to carry the amperage an amplifier outputs.
Count yourself lucky and don't do it again.
 
+1

Locking jacks on my instruments? No thanks!
I have one that came with a locking jack, and it's a royal pain in the arse, because of course I forget it's locking and I always pull and pull before I remember.

If someone pulls my cable when I'm using it, I'd rather it gets unplugged than have a broken cable.

I have a bass with a locking jack. You can either sand, or what I did with a cheap soldering iron, melt away the tab that locks the jack, and it should work like normal.
 
Geez, give the OP a break. If some caveman didn't ask why they were still throwing rocks at wildebeasts when stone arrows work better we would all still be living in caves throwing rocks at wildebeasts. :hiding:

I use this setup so 1/4 inch jacks are not an issue for me.

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Because we're spending all our research dollars on boner pills and hair restoration.

You want to talk upgrading, why stop at the ancient connector design, let's redesign the whole damn thing. Use a small laser and sensor to pick up the vibration of the strings and run that straight thru a fiber optic cable to the input of the amp where it can be converted into an electronic signal, the same way cds and dvd players have operated for decades now. You could even run power to the instrument thru the same cable, so no batteries, yay for the environment. Sure it's a bit more digital, but analog is so last millennium. I can't imagine how it might sound, but I imagine it could sound like whatever you wanted if you gave the amp a port to hook up a laptop and run the signal thru your favorite software then back to the amp or studio console.

Power can't be transmitted over fiber and all of the peripherals you want to add just increase the number of places where a problem can occur.

Pickups are analog devices, period. You can digitize the signal once it has been captured by the pickups, but there's no guarantee that it will be any more reliable than an analog signal, passed through a couple of 1/4" jacks/plugs and a piece of cable. Fiber isn't able to be bent tightly, either. Kinds and bends that are tighter than the minimum bend radius degrade performance and in some cases, the signal will actually stop because the light will reflect back on itself. Then, there's the media converter needed at the amp. Do you want to manipulate the signal in the analog, or digital domain? You need to make that decision, too. Think Pro Tools plug-ins, for this part but you still need to deal with latency issues. Fortunately, digital signals have been pretty immune to marketing BS, unlike analog cables and plugs. However, I just saw that AudioQuest is selling high end USB cables, so I guess that ship has sailed, too.

I would bet that very few in this thread actually understand the requirements and signal properties of the cables and plugs/jacks we use. The standards were set over 100 years ago and, other than standing on the cable and yanking on it, we don't exceed the capabilities. If a guitar produces 12KHz, it's not even going to be audible, while coaxial cable can pass signals in the MHz range and even GHz, if the right conditions are met.

You must not like vintage amps- they won't be able to work with the digital signal you want. :D
 
You must have played not very loudly... a standard instrument cable will heat up rather rapidly with the kind of voltages a typical bass amp will output at a gig... and finally melt. They are not designed to carry the amperage an amplifier outputs.
Count yourself lucky and don't do it again.

It's not the voltage, it's the current that melts the insulation. The signal may arc through if the insulation isn't rated for high voltage, but that doesn't usually happen until it reaches high numbers.
 
I've seen combos of 1/4 and either Speakon or XLR but not all three, I can't quite see how that would be possible.
Do you have a link to this beast?

Here's a 1/4" and XLR combo-

http://www.fullcompass.com/common/products/lg/83515.jpg

Speaker output above a certain level doesn't work on 1/4" plugs and jacks because of the heat generated at the connections. Cross-sectional area and contact area are's sufficient to handle the current passing through the connections. It's the reason a skinny wire is used for a small fuse and large contacts are needed for heavy duty switches.
 
Otherwise, we might run into the problems associated with bicycle bottom bracket "standards".

English Thread vs Italian Thread and a handful of BB widths has given way to dozens of "standard" bicycle bottom brackets. Makes repairing and swapping parts on bikes a PITA. While there have been several improvements over the old square taper BBs of the past, now there is too much proprietary being passed off as standard.

Dude I feel your pain. The industry seems to fabricate a new standard every year (or sometimes multiple times a year) and it is doing nothing to help anyone. I'd have settled on the outboard threaded brackets with the through-axle and left well enough alone, now we have stuff like PF30, BB30, BB92 (?!), etc... and it's not just that either, just look at wheel axle standards... :hmm:

But anyway the discussion, yeah there isn't much wrong with 1/4" jacks so why bother? It'd take more effort than it's worth to convert the whole industry (because that's essentially what we're looking at here) for whatever marginal improvement one could expect. Even repairs get tedious at much more complicated connectors, for example rewiring 4-8 pin microphone connectors (which is such a PITA)... the 1/4" leaves you with two or three very large, very exposed terminals to attach wire to and solder on. You don't even need to solder if you don't want to, a lot of the terminals on 1/4" jacks are sized properly for a female spade lug. Yerasov's idea with the CAT connectors is innovative and clean but ultimately I think confined to small applications like pedalboards, where it does indeed reduce some of the clutter from multiple signal and power connections. Ultimately, though, I think it 'solves' a problem that was never there.

My $0.02 :hiding:
 
I use these and I love them just hard to find them anymore I bought as many plugs and cables as I could.

So does one just leave the plug in the jack after use? Is that good for the jack itself? Also (and this is just out of waaaaay left field, TB Twilight Zone thinking) does having such a strong magnet in place create the potential to disturb the magnetic field of the pickups?
 
So does one just leave the plug in the jack after use? Is that good for the jack itself? Also (and this is just out of waaaaay left field, TB Twilight Zone thinking) does having such a strong magnet in place create the potential to disturb the magnetic field of the pickups?

The magnetic field should be in roughly the same shape as the magnet- like a donut. Also, the field would more likely to affect the signal, if it was parallel to the path. Fortunately, these fields don't cause much of a problem when it's at a right angle. This is the reason orientation is important when placing transformers and other inductors- if the field is strong enough, it can cause a lot of problems.
 
Power can't be transmitted over fiber and all of the peripherals you want to add just increase the number of places where a problem can occur.

Pickups are analog devices, period. You can digitize the signal once it has been captured by the pickups, but there's no guarantee that it will be any more reliable than an analog signal, passed through a couple of 1/4" jacks/plugs and a piece of cable. Fiber isn't able to be bent tightly, either. Kinds and bends that are tighter than the minimum bend radius degrade performance and in some cases, the signal will actually stop because the light will reflect back on itself. Then, there's the media converter needed at the amp. Do you want to manipulate the signal in the analog, or digital domain? You need to make that decision, too. Think Pro Tools plug-ins, for this part but you still need to deal with latency issues. Fortunately, digital signals have been pretty immune to marketing BS, unlike analog cables and plugs. However, I just saw that AudioQuest is selling high end USB cables, so I guess that ship has sailed, too.

I would bet that very few in this thread actually understand the requirements and signal properties of the cables and plugs/jacks we use. The standards were set over 100 years ago and, other than standing on the cable and yanking on it, we don't exceed the capabilities. If a guitar produces 12KHz, it's not even going to be audible, while coaxial cable can pass signals in the MHz range and even GHz, if the right conditions are met.

You must not like vintage amps- they won't be able to work with the digital signal you want. :D


I am aware that fiber doesn't transmit power, I was talking about a combination type cable. Think two wires for power and a fiber line molded into a single cable with a three prong tip, two prongs for the power wires and the third is an optical port for the fiber. And yeah, fiber would be too delicate to be practical, but installing lasers in a bass isn't either. The whole idea is hypothetical anyways, I came up with it as I typed it in a semi conscious state induced by mass quantities of THC, so let's not get into too deep a debate over it.
 
You can leave it in, but if the bass is active you will drain the batteries because the circuit is engaged.

+1 I started using them because I can connect and disconnect so quickly without any noise and they really are awesome cables and because the adapter stays in there is less wear and tear when switching basses.