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Why is G soooo bright on many flat wound sets?

This is so frustrating. I find a set of strings that I like a d the G string is very thin and bright compared to the rest of the set.
Why is that?
I've had it from LaBellas DTF and LTF, Dunlop, Olintos, and others I can't remember.
Tried on many different instruments....
Thoughts?
I want the chocolatey old school LaBella sound but even on all strings.
 
One of the best sets of flats I've tried with a non-twangy G and a non-thuddy E is the GHS Precision Flats 45-60-75-95. Chocolatey? Yes! A close second would be the Fender 9050L (45-60-80-100).

The worst? D'A Chromes ECB84 (40-60-80-100).
I'll throw some support in for the GHS PFs too, they're my go-to for P-basses without question.

OP, I'm not sure how long you've been playing them, but flats can take quite a while to "cure" and "break in" compared to rounds. It can vary a lot depending on the brand and materials, but almost every flat I've played needed considerable seat time to start breaking in. Some ways to speed up or alleviate the imbalance with the G strings:

- Try a different gauge (like noted above), get a heavier G and lighter E and A strings
- Lower the G side of your pickups, the extra distance usually rounds things out for me
- Play with sweaty or dirty hands to accelerate the "Funkifying" process ;)
- Experiment with foam mutes of some kind, you may be surprised how much this contributes to that classic flats tone
- Play closer to the neck, finger position can effect tone a great deal too
- Not sure how you feel about using compressors, but they've been on records for decades...must be a reason people keep using them
:thumbsup:
 
Because G is the only string in a standard set that only has one layer of windings. Which probably means less "losses" and therefore more overtones that are not muted.

Edit: You can try a high density foam mute very close to the bridge saddle on only G. I often do than on E to get rid of unwanted overtones until the strings have aged enough to mask them anyway.
 
This is so frustrating. I find a set of strings that I like a d the G string is very thin and bright compared to the rest of the set.
When all else fails, you might want to try this to speed up the process of breaking in the G...

 
I notice the same thing with flats. I put a tiny foam mute on the G string to even it out - small rectangle of craft foam with a slit in it. Jam it right up at the saddle held in place by the saddle screw. It helps but not perfect.
 
New strings can be a gamble. Just because we bought a name brand and spent some bucks for some new strings..........doesn't mean that we will be getting a perfect set of strings.

Quirts!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's possible that your G string might mellow out after some weeks.

I've bought many TI Flats for my bass collection and I've been happy with all of them. HA! Used to be $45 a pack. Try $99 ($100) today!!!!!!!!! Tariffs?
 
How long do you leave these flats on your bass? I find that flats can take months to really break in.
For me, Labella DTF 760 strings do a great job for getting that even old school tone. But you have to give them a chance to settle down.
These strings have been on at least 1 year.
Im not new to flats and am aware they must break in, I just really hate the imbalance from string to string.
 
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New strings can be a gamble. Just because we bought a name brand and spent some bucks for some new strings..........doesn't mean that we will be getting a perfect set of strings.

Quirts!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's possible that your G string might mellow out after some weeks.

I've bought many TI Flats for my bass collection and I've been happy with all of them. HA! Used to be $45 a pack. Try $99 ($100) today!!!!!!!!! Tariffs?
I have TI flats on 2 basses and they are great, just not the sound I want for this instrument.

I think I will try the GHS precisions for EADG and keep the Dunlop low B.
I will report back.

Thanks all.
 
I have TI flats on 2 basses and they are great, just not the sound I want for this instrument.

I think I will try the GHS precisions for EADG and keep the Dunlop low B.
I will report back.

Thanks all.
For what it is worth, I've had good results with D'Addario Chrome Flats. They have about 4 different gauges. They are fairly bright flats. I kick mine down with the passive tone control on my stock Ps.

Good luck with your string quest.
 
I've heard they are very bright. Are they even from string to string?
Chromes start off bright, but they do mellow out after about 6 months of playing. I have a set of Chromes on one of my Ric 4003s and that has been my experience. I can get some darker tones from my bass by turning down the tone knobs.

My Chromes are medium gauge (50-105) and they are tuned to D Standard. The F (highest) string was just as bright as the rest starting out. I didn't notice anything different. Perhaps it could be the gauge that I'm using?
 
I've heard they are very bright. Are they even from string to string?
D'A Chromes are bright as in "clanky" when new (at least to my ears). I started out with the ECB81 set (45-65-80-100), but found the 45G and the 65D a bit too tense for comfort so switched to the ECB84 set (40-60-80-100), which stayed on one of my J's for 4 yrs. They started out alright but the 40G remained way too bright and "twangy" even after 4 yrs while the 100E eventually went all thuddy. I then discovered the Fender 9050L (45-60-80-100), which I ended up liking a lot better than the Chromes. A little more of the low-mid punch (vs. hi-mid clank) and no twangy G or tight D.
 
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I made a thread about this problem a while back.


You have to give them time to settle in, but if you do not want to wait that long, you can try this, it really works.

 
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Seems to be the way. Play higher up the fretboard on the top strings? Top string will always be bright. Or embrace the bright? I like having a bit of pop on the G with my flats. Also what does it sound like in a mix? Might not be as prominent.
 

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