It's still a toss up, between all red/mica powder/epoxy and mica/epoxy with red tips. The mica powder against the maple board is subtle - while the red will really pop.
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It's still a toss up, between all red/mica powder/epoxy and mica/epoxy with red tips. The mica powder against the maple board is subtle - while the red will really pop.
Here's a mica/epoxy mix against a maple board, which I did on the 4004.
It's subtle.
It's subtle.
I was looking at the middle top one. I'd probably go with the subtler red coloring just at the tips rather than the dark and hard red. This bass has so much going on already that subtle would look better to my eye.
But since you have much better eye for aesthetics than I do pretty sure it'll be pretty damn nice whatever you decide.
But since you have much better eye for aesthetics than I do pretty sure it'll be pretty damn nice whatever you decide.
Yeah, it's a toss up between flaming red and subtle mica. Now I'm tending toward the subtle mica with red tips. Of course, on the actual fretboard, the tips go to a point, so they may not be very noticeable.
Rôckhewer
Commercial User
- Feb 28, 2015
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- Owner/Builder- RockHewer Custom Guitars LLC
Do you think that doing a single pour of resin/epoxy ....is going to get the very center of the flames full/high enough to sand to your radius ?
Or might you need to do a second fill, just in the center....
.....to avoid leaving a flat spot down the middle?
Or might you need to do a second fill, just in the center....
.....to avoid leaving a flat spot down the middle?
Epoxy is so thick that you can overfill the cavities with careful pouring. It has enough surface tension to form a bit bubble-like shape when poured carefully.
The bottom of the flames are darker than the ones on the test board so there may be need for more tinting than on blonde maple flames on test pieces.
The bottom of the flames are darker than the ones on the test board so there may be need for more tinting than on blonde maple flames on test pieces.
Nice!!!! You nailed it again! That looks too cool, hot rod deviltry.
I just got a mental picture of you walking into a Hobby Lobby store (famous for supporting Fundamentalist Christian causes)
Clerk: May I help you?
Maple: Yes, I building this Satanic bass guitar in a thread called "Speak of the Devil". I'm looking for something to keep the beautiful glittery flames of Hell from oozing into the fret slots. Can we make a deal on...?
Clerk (over pager): Security isle 3, Security isle 3...
Thanks again everyone!
I put a little more clear epoxy on the inlay, just to level it to the board.
Several of the fret slots "leaked".
Not a big deal, but it did lower the first level of epoxy pour, thus the second coat of clear.
Those brass strips are in there pretty good. I hope I don't have too much trouble pulling them out, and I hope they don't pull the epoxy pour out along with them. I'll let the epoxy top coat cure, and perhaps work on the brass strip later today.
I put a little more clear epoxy on the inlay, just to level it to the board.
Several of the fret slots "leaked".
Not a big deal, but it did lower the first level of epoxy pour, thus the second coat of clear.
Those brass strips are in there pretty good. I hope I don't have too much trouble pulling them out, and I hope they don't pull the epoxy pour out along with them. I'll let the epoxy top coat cure, and perhaps work on the brass strip later today.
I was wondering if you could have smeared a little paste wax on the brass strips first? My Hero Randall Fullmer does that to his fingerboards before CA gluing the frets in. Would paste wax with no silicone contaminate the epoxy or finish? I know silicone waxes are a nightmare for finish. I have a tub of what claims to be pure caranuba I'm using to wax screw threads, hope that doesn't result in any finish problems later.
I wonder if you could heat the brass strips before pulling them out? Don't know if that would help...
- Jun 30, 2010
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A new #11 exact blade scoring both sides at the juncture and tapping the bars from the side w/a light hammer should work.
Paste wax without silicone works just fine. Mold wax used in laminating molds is carnauba wax and does no harm to epoxy. The trick is to buff the wax and give the mold at least five coats of wax. Same will work on metal surfaces too.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Don't use that colored glitter as a top layer of your final pour. If you use it make sure there is enough clear or tinted resin on top of it to sand your radius without getting into the flake. If you do you will sand the color turning it a very bad looking silver color.
This is not an issue with pearl pigment.
EDIT: I guess I should have read the last page before posting this
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Looking at the pics it looks a lot like working with carbon fiber and epoxy. Messy goo everywhere you look and touch and about the only way to prevent more mess is to wait for the epoxy to cure. Then it's time to try to release the bits and pieces that were not ment to be bonded together. Last step is to sand at least half of the cured epoxy away.
