I have a feeling this thing will have many hours of playing on it in the next two months!Wow, and wow dude. drool
And only two months to go. Should be lots of time to get this thing dialed in...![]()
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I have a feeling this thing will have many hours of playing on it in the next two months!Wow, and wow dude. drool
And only two months to go. Should be lots of time to get this thing dialed in...![]()
I was just thinking, if the voting were to be held TODAY, I'd win!![]()
Ha! we'll see, the quality of all these builds this year are incredible, definitely increasing every year!With work like that, you might win anyway!
I really like the looks of that Nova headless system; I just wish it came in narrower string spacings. Are you happy with the quality of the fit and the machining?
oops, you may be right, 18 or 19. sorry about that.Thanks, glad to hear those comments.
If I could get it in 16mm I'd jump right on it. But their eBay listings only have 18mm or 19mm as options.... ???
Send them a note to ask about 16mm. They may list if they can supply.oops, you may be right, 18 or 19. sorry about that.
Send them a note to ask about 16mm. They may list if they can supply.
Ah very good. Short sighted of them it is.I did, a couple of months ago. They said no.
Their modular design - tuner/bridge unit separate from baseplate - should, in theory, make it easy for them to offer lots of different spacing options, even baseplates designed for multi scale. Maybe in future?
How about a threaded insert (brass) embedded in the body (from the side if a neck through) with ebony pillow blocks for each saddle? Then any configuration could be done and each saddle would sit independent on the surface and allow the top wood to be seen.On the other hand, the apparently cylindrical design of the tuner/bridge unit means that I, with a little accuracy, might be able to make my own base plate with a block of ebony and a drill press...
That's how the Mera system works. On the one hand it's great for flexibility, on the other getting five blocks perfectly straight proved to be challenging, not impossible, but challenging. I ended up cutting spacer shims and mounting against those, then removing them after the individual blocks were in place. Screws going into wood is never an exact science though.How about a threaded insert (brass) embedded in the body (from the side if a neck through) with ebony pillow blocks for each saddle? Then any configuration could be done and each saddle would sit independent on the surface and allow the top wood to be seen.
I kind of meant having a slab of brass inserted through the side (epoxied in place) under the surface before the wings were glued on. then from above locate, drill and tap the holes for the attaching screws. The ebony pillows would only be to support the cylindrical elements and could be differing heights to follow the fingerboard curve.That's how the Mera system works. On the one hand it's great for flexibility, on the other getting five blocks perfectly straight proved to be challenging, not impossible, but challenging. I ended up cutting spacer shims and mounting against those, then removing them after the individual blocks were in place. Screws going into wood is never an exact science though.
The weight distribution makes a headless much more comfortable. All the weight of the tuners is on the body, not at the end of a long lever. I think (I don't have a scale) that, like for like, a headless will be lighter too.Jisch,
May I ask why you are a headless convert?