Winter 2019 Build Off - the EUV

[ctmullins]

YES! Because extreme Vs must have an extreme fingerboard

Silliest question of the year (so far) Of course you do!

Well alrighty then, it stays!

 

[Will_White]

What scale length are you going for?

 

[ctmullins]

What scale length are you going for?

40”. Or maybe 41”. The standard for upright (3/4) is apparently 41.5”. From what I’ve read, part of the inimitable tone of an upright has to do with the scale, so it has to be at least 40”.

 

[Freekmagnet]

I’m digging this build! Sub’d!

 

[ctmullins]

Laying out the center block for glue-up.

It needs wings top & bottom to span the curved sections of the body outline.

 

[ctmullins]

Cut an access panel from the right rear wing. Planning on attaching with small neo magnets.

Beginning the center block glue-up.

 

[ctmullins]

Haven’t had (or taken) much time for this one lately. Don’t want to peak too early.

Not much to see anyway; I’ve just been gluing blocks of wood together.

I have a killer piece of flame maple for the body sides, but I’ve been mulling over the best way to do the angle cuts. I considered buying a miter saw, since I don’t have one, and new tools are always fun. But then I realized that the angles I needed to cut were greater than 60 degrees anyway, which is beyond the reach of a miter saw. I could jig something up to maybe make it work, but if I’m going to do that, then I can just jig something up for the Japanese saw just as easily. So that’s what I did.

Once deep enough, the jig is no longer needed.

Nice and clean and square!

Did the same for the angle at the bottom.

It’s a bit too cold right now for glue-up, but it’ll be okay in a few hours.

 

[Beej]

drooldrooldrooldrooldrool

 

[SLivinghouse]

You are wise to go with standard scale length. I've played a couple shorter scale EUBs and they don't sound as close to a real upright as a full scale. You'll also have to accommodate the extra string length on the tailpiece end since upright strings extend about 8 inches from the tailpiece to the bridge. Strings make a huge difference as well. The NS design helicore's are mediocre (I have them on my NXT now) but you can also use many upright stings. Nice design!
You might want to do research on stings here: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[ctmullins]

You are wise to go with standard scale length. I've played a couple shorter scale EUBs and they don't sound as close to a real upright as a full scale. You'll also have to accommodate the extra string length on the tailpiece end since upright strings extend about 8 inches from the tailpiece to the bridge. Strings make a huge difference as well. The NS design helicore's are mediocre (I have them on my NXT now) but you can also use many upright stings. Nice design!
You might want to do research on stings here: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Thanks! Yes, the Gollihurs are awesome. So far they’ve supplied me with a pre-shaped fingerboard, a pair of endpins, and a set of GHS Crossover strings.

I am completely unfamiliar with the world of upright strings, so I’m sure a bit of (expensive) experimentation will be needed. For now I’m going with the slightly shorter strings designed for the NS instruments, but I also plan on building some way of accommodating the extra length of normal DB strings. Probably something along the lines of what NS uses. That Ned is pretty smart!

 

[ctmullins]

Feel like I have some momentum again.

Glued up two side panels...

Then the other two.

And the last little bits - wedges to fill the tips of the V - are glued tonight.

That’s the last of the blocks, which means it’s on to cleaning up the perimeter next.

 

[Reedt2000]

What's your plan for a stand?

 

[ctmullins]

What's your plan for a stand?

Each tip of the V will get drilled for an endpin. Makes its own stand!

 

[ctmullins]

[Cult]Wood removal machine![/Cult] I want some space down the center, to allow the top a chance to vibrate a bit, as well as building in a bit of “give” in the structure. A solid center block all the way down would be essentially like a chambered solid body, and I want a bit more of an acoustic feel here.

Each tip of the V will get drilled for an endpin. Makes its own stand!

Done. I’m using inexpensive Kay/Engelhardt pins from Gollihur.

Of course, it just wouldn’t be a proper build without some router tear-out.

 

[Scoops]

Ouch on the tear out

 

[postalflunkie]

With that much cut out under the bridge, do you plan to brace the top?

 

[ctmullins]

With that much cut out under the bridge, do you plan to brace the top?

No. My top is 0.25” thick, and I feel like it’ll be adequately supported with the frame that is left.

I’m also not planning on a huge neck angle or tall bridge, so there won’t be as much downforce as a true acoustic double bass.

 

[Beej]

Getting excited about this one...

 

[SLivinghouse]

I think you will be ok with .25" because the distance under the bridge is short. Uprights have a bass bar for support under the E and a sound post that transfers vibration to the back under the G which also provides support. So are you going to use a piezo?

 

[reverendrally]

CT, you're up to your usual malarkey! LOVE it.