This is the funniest thing I've read on here in days!If you put the bottom "moon" over the bridge pup....
View attachment 3727308
Do something with those switches to look a bit "mouthy".....and....well....
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Winter Build Off 2020 - Malefactor 5
- Thread starter Beej
- Start date
Right? I'm like crying right nowThis is the funniest thing I've read on here in days!
@Fat Freddy is the most helpful friend I've got on this board 
Thank you gentlemen....I'm here all week....brisket, waitress....etc...Right? I'm like crying right now
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,632
- 222,243
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
How about sound holes that accent the ovals. Something like this:
View attachment 3727226
The shape isn't exactly right but you get the idea
I'm keeping my head in the sands of f-holes for now. 
Something will work itself out.
I've had little time to work on things in the last few days, but I did get a few tasks done. I mounted the neck and drilled both sides for the neck screws. This allowed me to locate the bridge based on the neck location.
Then I measured things for two hours, and then routed the hole for the bridge block.
And it fits.
With that done, I was able to locate the template again and rout out the pickup holes.
And yet another mockup. They are all just sitting in place. I went 1mm low with the bridge block, as I can raise the saddles if need be. WCS, I'll veneer the bottom of the block before securing it.
Once again, I also did some other stuff that I didn't take pics of...
Something will work itself out.I've had little time to work on things in the last few days, but I did get a few tasks done. I mounted the neck and drilled both sides for the neck screws. This allowed me to locate the bridge based on the neck location.
Then I measured things for two hours, and then routed the hole for the bridge block.
And it fits.
With that done, I was able to locate the template again and rout out the pickup holes.
And yet another mockup. They are all just sitting in place. I went 1mm low with the bridge block, as I can raise the saddles if need be. WCS, I'll veneer the bottom of the block before securing it.
Once again, I also did some other stuff that I didn't take pics of...
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Nice, clean work!
I'm picturing a slash-type hole, like on a semi-hollow rickenbacker 360
I'm picturing a slash-type hole, like on a semi-hollow rickenbacker 360
How about holes in the side of the bass if you don't like them in the front? Maybe a row of round holes or slot on the upper bass side bout?
Inspiration....What about holes in the neck???....
Holes where fret markers should be?.....
Maybe not....
Sounds like someone may have a hole in his head...stockView attachment 3728478
Inspiration....What about holes in the neck???....
Holes where fret markers should be?.....
Maybe not....
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,632
- 222,243
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Have you considered doing a Bruce Johnson brass grounding block under the bridge?
Yeah?.....They laughed at De Lorien too.....Sounds like someone may have a hole in his head...stock
.....
Too much catnip Freddy...Yeah?.....They laughed at De Lorien too.....
I think, technically speaking, the slotted headstock fulfills the "air space" element (please correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't seem any different than the "skeleton" builds, other than it's only a small portion of the instrument).
Will that technicality hurt the voting?
Not sure...
Will that technicality hurt the voting?
Not sure...
Depends on the size of the bribe....
Depends on the recipient
Thanks for reading and your input all
This is what my very first design had before going to f-holes or something similar. I was going to do an oval sound port in the upper horn facing the player. I still might - I do like the stealthiness.
I have - I've done it a couple of times and like the strength in connection. In this case, just due to the complexity of everything else and the time constraints, I figured I would just glue down the bridge block solidly, and then use screws to firmly connect things to the body. The design is already a solid block from neck to bridge, so I'm thinking this will be adequate to give me a good join. I'd like to implement a block under the bridge, but I think time's too tight to make it happen reasonably.
The rules state the airspace must be in the body. I was more hoping to move forward on the technicality to buy myself more time to think about the airspace holes, but these parameters/constraints being clarified have helped by forcing some choices. I think f-holes (and many of the designs posted) will work and not detract from the overall design, but I do like the oval ports on the side and also something "oval-ly" on the front in an f-hole type configuration. I still like my original design (oval with circles on ends) the best.
I drilled holes to the control cavity and test-fitted the electronics. A couple of additional holes were needed to provide a comfortable fit.
The final headstock thickness was 18mm, but I thought that may be too thin, so I added three layers of veneer to the back of the headstock. This has the added bonus of showing a little more detail. Although that "zebra" walnut is contrasting with itself right now, other pieces from the same sheet darkened up with pore filler and finish.
After doing the outside edges of the headstock, I cut out the holes and clean them up as well. I took these ones out of sequence, so you can see the neck shaped and ready for sanding in these pics.
And here's a shot of the neck mid-carve. The neck surface to the left is smoothed with files and ready for final sanding.
A shot of the heel carve mid-process. I've used a couple of farrier's files to carve this (flat and curved), and they made quick work of it. A half-round bastard file was used to clean up the brutalist surface left by the farrier's file.
I also further filed back the 14mm wide neck bolts I have so that they will smoothly fit in the 1/2" holes in the body. I had fitted them, but they were a little tight. Now I have to grind off 3/16" from the tip of each and paint them to match the rest of the hardware. I also realized that I didn't paint the straplocks, so I'll be painting them at the same time.
In related news, I've decided to mount the strat jack to the back - on the control plate. I tested how the bass will hang on me and it should not present any interference.
The final headstock thickness was 18mm, but I thought that may be too thin, so I added three layers of veneer to the back of the headstock. This has the added bonus of showing a little more detail. Although that "zebra" walnut is contrasting with itself right now, other pieces from the same sheet darkened up with pore filler and finish.
After doing the outside edges of the headstock, I cut out the holes and clean them up as well. I took these ones out of sequence, so you can see the neck shaped and ready for sanding in these pics.
And here's a shot of the neck mid-carve. The neck surface to the left is smoothed with files and ready for final sanding.
A shot of the heel carve mid-process. I've used a couple of farrier's files to carve this (flat and curved), and they made quick work of it. A half-round bastard file was used to clean up the brutalist surface left by the farrier's file.
I also further filed back the 14mm wide neck bolts I have so that they will smoothly fit in the 1/2" holes in the body. I had fitted them, but they were a little tight. Now I have to grind off 3/16" from the tip of each and paint them to match the rest of the hardware.
I also realized that I didn't paint the straplocks, so I'll be painting them at the same time. In related news, I've decided to mount the strat jack to the back - on the control plate. I tested how the bass will hang on me and it should not present any interference.
So many great curves in this design...would it be wrong to suggest making any sound holes more straight or jagged (nicely, though ) as a counter point?
Contrast, as opposed to harmony?
) as a counter point?Contrast, as opposed to harmony?
