I was just about to check the news to see if you were trapped in a well, or coal mine.
That's all looking pretty fantastic.
That's all looking pretty fantastic.
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Winter Build-Off 2022: Bamboo EUB
- Thread starter Max Bogosity
- Start date
My cunning plan is to finish by the end of the 2023 WBO and nobody will notice that I’m off by one digit.
Let's see how this looks when the clamps come off tomorrow, but so far so good.
I must have heard the phrase ‘bass boat’ and misunderstood the instructions.
Trimming the neck block down to the sides.
And it's starting to look like something.
And it's starting to look like something.
I bet that's going to have an awesome sound! It looks fantastic so far!
Yeah, this is getting exciting now. I can't wait to see this one completed. 
It certainly is impressively large, anyway. I'm beginning to think I missed the mark when it comes to the original goals of portability and minimal stage real estate.
Thinking about the top and back now, and wondering why violin-family instruments usually have the top and back overhanging the sides. I'm not finding any definitive answer. The best speculation I've seen is that it's an aid to repair; when reassembling an instrument that has been taken apart, you don't have to worry so much about alignment between the sides and top/back.
I wonder if it's OK to use a template following bit with a larger bearing, e.g. put a 1/2" bearing on a 1/4" bit. Then I could run the bearing against the side and easily create a consistent overhang. That seems like it should be fine.
My next steps are probably installing the linings, then the top, then I want to add a little top-to-side reinforcement right where the bridge feet will sit. That's probably unnecessary but will make me feel better. The cross piece you see there now is just jammed in to maintain the shape and will go away once the top is glued on.
Thinking about the top and back now, and wondering why violin-family instruments usually have the top and back overhanging the sides. I'm not finding any definitive answer. The best speculation I've seen is that it's an aid to repair; when reassembling an instrument that has been taken apart, you don't have to worry so much about alignment between the sides and top/back.
I wonder if it's OK to use a template following bit with a larger bearing, e.g. put a 1/2" bearing on a 1/4" bit. Then I could run the bearing against the side and easily create a consistent overhang. That seems like it should be fine.
My next steps are probably installing the linings, then the top, then I want to add a little top-to-side reinforcement right where the bridge feet will sit. That's probably unnecessary but will make me feel better. The cross piece you see there now is just jammed in to maintain the shape and will go away once the top is glued on.
I think it served as a bit of a damage buffer, as you would hit the edge of the top instead of the joint. I also think it was a stylistic choice because other instruments developed in the same period did not have such overhangs...
I did consider it but decided not to because the top is so narrow; the bass bar and sound post would be right up against the sides. Structurally they don't seem necessary to help carry the load since the bridge feet are already nearly on top of the sides. Sonically, I don't expect it to work as an acoustic instrument anyway since the volume is so small.
But I'm prepared to be convinced otherwise!
OK, sure, that makes sense. It's not as if you'll have vibrating top and back "plates" as with an upright and the top and back won't need the structural support.
By the way, I love this build!
I've done it. There is no support above or below the wood being cut, so be extra careful to avoid tearout.
Working out where the bridge goes.
And gluing on the inside lining. One or two clamps were involved. The side edges curve in two directions, but the curves are so gradual I didn't have any trouble making solid linings fit.
And gluing on the inside lining. One or two clamps were involved. The side edges curve in two directions, but the curves are so gradual I didn't have any trouble making solid linings fit.
