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Winter Build Off 2022: Coronado Re-imagined
- Thread starter ctmullins
- Start date
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,735
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
I picked up some cool humbucker-shaped pickups from the Classifieds, so I opened up the cavities for them today.
One month left; I better crank up my pace!
One month left; I better crank up my pace!
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,735
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Well, I'm not doing a good job keeping this thread lively. That's partially because the build itself is going in fits and spurts, due to lots of competing life stuff. Nothing bad, just - other interests and responsibilities, work not least of them...
But at least I can now report that the woodworking is essentially done, and it's time to turn to finishing. At this rate, I may or may not make the Build-Off deadline, not sure. If I miss it it'll be the first time ever, which would be a bit of a shame, but it happens.
I got all of the fiddly little holes drilled, which then made it possible for me to do a test assembly to check the geometry, which turned out bang on. Laying a straightedge across the neck, the tops of the frets are coplanar with the tops of the bridge saddles when the bridge is at its lowest point. That's perfect. That's exactly what you want. Further, the NS tuner-tailpiece is positioned for a nice break angle over the bridge - not too shallow, and not too deep. I am pleased.
The only remaining item before I slather this thing with Marble Paint is where - or perhaps if - to put the battery box. I'm pretty sure the question is "where" - I like the idea of a passive instrument in theory, for simplicity's sake, but I am often disappointed in the tonal profile of a purely passive instrument. Besides, there are all those holes to fill.... And deity knows I'm not going to fish a battery through those F-holes, so a battery box is in order. I had considered putting it in the center of the back, between where the bridge bushings and the tailpiece are, but I don't want to compromise that structural spine any more than necessary. So that means top side or bottom side, and the bottom side is pretty busy already with the knobs and switch. So I guess that means I need to route a square in the top side. Hopefully I can find a good spot that's relatively flat....
But at least I can now report that the woodworking is essentially done, and it's time to turn to finishing. At this rate, I may or may not make the Build-Off deadline, not sure. If I miss it it'll be the first time ever, which would be a bit of a shame, but it happens.
I got all of the fiddly little holes drilled, which then made it possible for me to do a test assembly to check the geometry, which turned out bang on. Laying a straightedge across the neck, the tops of the frets are coplanar with the tops of the bridge saddles when the bridge is at its lowest point. That's perfect. That's exactly what you want. Further, the NS tuner-tailpiece is positioned for a nice break angle over the bridge - not too shallow, and not too deep. I am pleased.
The only remaining item before I slather this thing with Marble Paint is where - or perhaps if - to put the battery box. I'm pretty sure the question is "where" - I like the idea of a passive instrument in theory, for simplicity's sake, but I am often disappointed in the tonal profile of a purely passive instrument. Besides, there are all those holes to fill.... And deity knows I'm not going to fish a battery through those F-holes, so a battery box is in order. I had considered putting it in the center of the back, between where the bridge bushings and the tailpiece are, but I don't want to compromise that structural spine any more than necessary. So that means top side or bottom side, and the bottom side is pretty busy already with the knobs and switch. So I guess that means I need to route a square in the top side. Hopefully I can find a good spot that's relatively flat....
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,735
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
…. On the other hand ……
If I put the battery box directly behind the pots, then it could serve double duty as an access panel. Hmmm, I’m starting to like that idea….
If I put the battery box directly behind the pots, then it could serve double duty as an access panel. Hmmm, I’m starting to like that idea….
I've got an old Epiphone EA260 that I keep thinking would be great with active electronics, so I hope you can get the battery thing figured out so I can "borrow" your solution to this whole battery thingy 
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,735
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,735
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Yeah, this isn’t gonna make the deadline. It’s a shame, but there it is.
I’ve been experimenting a bit with the hydro-dipping, and the Marabu paint I bought doesn’t quite work like I was expecting. I did a test on a Peavey Foundation body and it’s cool, but not quite what I want for the real thing. More practice needed.
But the real reason this is going to slip is because I’ve been busy with other things, some bass-related and some not. On the bass front, I have been concentrating on five-strings lately, due to repertoire requirements, which has led to assessing my collection of five-string instruments, which has led to a re-working of this one, which is now nearly complete.
This is actually a Rebirth/Renewal story all its own, as this will be the third incarnation of a bass whose evolution has had its share of twists and turns. But I don’t have a phrase photo, so you’ll just have to take my word. Headless basses are where it’s at, though, no doubt.
And the Coronado will get done. Just not in the next two weeks.
I’ve been experimenting a bit with the hydro-dipping, and the Marabu paint I bought doesn’t quite work like I was expecting. I did a test on a Peavey Foundation body and it’s cool, but not quite what I want for the real thing. More practice needed.
But the real reason this is going to slip is because I’ve been busy with other things, some bass-related and some not. On the bass front, I have been concentrating on five-strings lately, due to repertoire requirements, which has led to assessing my collection of five-string instruments, which has led to a re-working of this one, which is now nearly complete.
This is actually a Rebirth/Renewal story all its own, as this will be the third incarnation of a bass whose evolution has had its share of twists and turns. But I don’t have a phrase photo, so you’ll just have to take my word. Headless basses are where it’s at, though, no doubt.
And the Coronado will get done. Just not in the next two weeks.
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For a Canadian luthier, any soundhole is an eh-hole.
Not sure what you were shootin for, but that looks pretty dang cool
I'm still very curious how this turns out, so count on me to stick around!
Yeah, the swirl does what the swirl wants. 
I haven't used the Marabu paints. I'm a Magic Marble fan. I do have several questions for you -
I haven't used the Marabu paints. I'm a Magic Marble fan. I do have several questions for you -
- What did you use for a base coat (including color)?
- What was your process for applying the paint on the water?
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,735
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Yeah, the swirl does what the swirl wants.
I haven't used the Marabu paints. I'm a Magic Marble fan. I do have several questions for you -
We'll stop there...for now.
- What did you use for a base coat (including color)?
- What was your process for applying the paint on the water?
Hey Tim!
1. I used basic rattlecan primer, black (really dark gray).
2. The kit that I bought was Marabu color shift/metallic paints, not the base color kit, so that may have been part of my problem. These didn't come in "squeezable" bottles, just glass bottles with a small hole in the top, like they were intended to be lightly applied over a base color layer. So I couldn't get enough of the paint on the water fast enough, which I think caused the paint to begin to set before the dipping happened. Beginner stuff...
Yeah, I'm with you here.
So, suggestion #1 is gonna be, use a white primer. I know, it seems wrong. But the colors will be WAY more vibrant on top of white as opposed to black. I tried black once, sanded it back off and tried again. It just looked wrong. The only time I don't use white base coat is if I'm doing a silver swirl, then I use a silver base.
Suggestion #2, pipettes!!! Even with the Magic Marble, which have a "dropper" insert in the bottle, I still remove that and use these -
https://www.amazon.com/Disposable-T...id=1647459644&sprefix=pipettes,aps,228&sr=8-4
It not only gives you more speed, but more control as to how and where the paint is placed on the water. Suck up some paint in your pipette, squeeze it out where you want it!
As for the paint setting, it'll happen to a point. There's no getting out of it. You just have to be aware of that and move with purpose, because the less time you take the less it skins over. But it's gonna skin over some, there's just no getting out of that.
Hope that helps!
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- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,735
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
