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Winter Build-Off 2023 [Assembly] - The Double Dumbucker VI

J Posega

Cat Dad and Dingwall Enthusiast
Inactive
Suspended
Jul 16, 2005
11,796
17,172
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Portland, OR
As a self-proclaimed nerd, geek, and likely dweeb, I couldn't not participate in this WBO.

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What we have here is the dumbest collection of parts I've ever had at one time.
  • Harley Benton Guitarbass VS neck - this is their take on the Fender Bass VI. The neck came up randomly on Reverb one day and I bought it with zero plans except to put it on a body.
  • JB Player Super Strat body - an 80s Strat copy that featured HSS pickups, mini switches, and an Accutune bridge. Someone definitely added more holes to the face for more switches and an LED. There's a big gaping route under the Tele bridge where the tremolo assembly used to fit into - that big ol' route is exactly why I bought this body on eBay.
  • A paid of the dumbest pickups I've ever seen. They're each a pair of blade humbuckers; like Seymour Duncan Hot Rails. But, you know, two of them. To make one massive pickup. Thus I've dubbed them the Double Dumbuckers.
  • A cheapo Tele style bridge - I needed a bridge that I knew I could modify to fit some fat Bass VI strings through. Most Tele bridges are through-body, but I'm not going to mess with that. This one has both options. Bonus: Without having measured a damn thing, this bridge perfectly covers the big route for the old tremolo.
  • A neck plate - it'll hold the neck to the body. Or is it the other way around?
  • Two different sets of Bass VI strings. I'll mix and match from both sets to have a heavier bottom and lighter top set.
The loose inspiration for this build is Cyberpunk 2077, a game with a great story, beautiful visuals, and Keanu Reeves as the voice and face of Johnny Silverhand. Night City is a classic cyberpunk metropolis--dirty slums, glistening luxury high rises, lots of neon and shiny crap everywhere.

It's also got guitars! That look cool!

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Of course, Johnny Silverhand's guitar here has both headstock and headless tuners. I won't be doing that. I will be using my local library's makerspace, specifically their laser cutter, to make a pickguard of sorts. As for the finish... I'll probably slap some stickers on it and relic it up some more.

My plan is to knock out the wall between the neck pocket and neck pickup route, which will allow me to inset the neck far enough to be able to mount the bridge where I want it. I'll probably reshape the headstock, too.

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I have about 1/4" of leeway to move the bridge forward, so I'm going to disassemble the bridge and get some longer intonation screws from the hardware store.
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My original idea was to build a bunch of effects into the body using some DIY PCBs, but I'm not confident enough in my soldering at the moment to do that yet. I'll probably keep it simple with a pickup switch and a big honkin' arcade button killswitch. Maybe I'll fill the other holes with LEDs. Each dumbucker only has 4 wires, so I can't get any true single coil sounds, but who the **** needs those anyway?

I already have a beautifully handmade custom Bass VI with handwound P90s from Rukavina Guitars, so the DDVI is meant to complement it. This thing will definitely straddle the line between a Bass VI and a seriously downtuned baritone guitar thanks to the 'neck' pickup being close to the bridge like the Stephen Carpenter signature guitars.

Maybe I'll get this thing put together before CDPR drops the one and only major story DLC for Cyberpunk 2077 in February!
 
I've been unmotivated/distracted by other smaller mod projects (along with the holidays and actually taking some time to actually play my basses), but this morning marks a milestone for this build:

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Using the jankiest of cutting tools and measuring techniques, I made the initial guiding cuts to remove material between the neck pickup route and neck pocket. I'll use a chisel to carefully take this block out after I've cut all the way down to neck pocket depth. I'll probably also need to cut away some of the neck pocket where the original neck mounted to provide better access to the upper frets.
 
A little saw action, a wide chisel and a whack with a hammer, and this is where we ended up.

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It's now going to be about balancing how far inset I want the neck and how far back I can set the bridge. The bridge is just about as far back as I can set it and still have it cover the entire tremolo route, I can move the neck out just a little bit.

But a question for you all. How do you all determine where to set your bridge so that you have enough room to adjust intonation forward or rearward?
  • You can see that with the L shape of the saddles, they can only go back so far. I know I can get longer screws or shorten screws, but I'm curious how you all would recommend I figure out where, exactly, to place the bridge to allow for proper intonation.
 
A little saw action, a wide chisel and a whack with a hammer, and this is where we ended up.

View attachment 4935262 View attachment 4935263

It's now going to be about balancing how far inset I want the neck and how far back I can set the bridge. The bridge is just about as far back as I can set it and still have it cover the entire tremolo route, I can move the neck out just a little bit.

But a question for you all. How do you all determine where to set your bridge so that you have enough room to adjust intonation forward or rearward?
  • You can see that with the L shape of the saddles, they can only go back so far. I know I can get longer screws or shorten screws, but I'm curious how you all would recommend I figure out where, exactly, to place the bridge to allow for proper intonation.
Typically the high string is set right to the exact scale length cause the others need to be slightly longer for intonation to be right. At least that's how I've done it for 4 and 5 strings. I'm sure the hive mind can comment on if this is the same for a bass vi
 
Typically the high string is set right to the exact scale length cause the others need to be slightly longer for intonation to be right. At least that's how I've done it for 4 and 5 strings. I'm sure the hive mind can comment on if this is the same for a bass vi
That makes sense to me. I've read about bringing the highest string saddle screw a couple rotations back from it's forward-most position and using that as the scale length from nut, so I'll probably just run with that idea.
 
That makes sense to me. I've read about bringing the highest string saddle screw a couple rotations back from it's forward-most position and using that as the scale length from nut, so I'll probably just run with that idea.
I usually cheat the saddle on the high string back 1/8"-1/4" from max extension just to leave a little adjustment. That only works if you got a fair bit of travel on your intonation screws.
 
I usually cheat the saddle on the high string back 1/8"-1/4" from max extension just to leave a little adjustment. That only works if you got a fair bit of travel on your intonation screws.
That seems like a good rule of thumb. I know I can get longer screws, but the saddles can only go back so far, so I should probably locate it with that rearward limitation in mind.
 
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More progress - neck and bridge mounted.

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Drilled the neck screw holes oversized because I know the screw holes in the neck weren’t centered. Looks terrible from the back but who cares?

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The next tough choice is going to be - where do I mount my illuminated kill switch? (I’m going to put a control panel of some sort on this, but I couldn’t help but brainstorm)

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