Been searching for this model for a bit, saw one on GC but missed it. May just bite the bullet and buy it on Thomann one day lol.
LOVE your pfp! Fellow Bocchi fan
!!!
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Been searching for this model for a bit, saw one on GC but missed it. May just bite the bullet and buy it on Thomann one day lol.
LOVE your pfp! Fellow Bocchi fan
!!!
my model is the precursor of the 1004J the TRB4II picked it up for $875 (robbed lol no case and it needs a new jack...should haggled) at GC and had this shipped to me from VA or something i forget lol so this is likely that one haha
didn't have 2K for a really 1004J and someone snipped the 1004 MIK model i was looking at..on Reverb ( he posted here like 10 or so pages back and was so angry i bought this instead and am way happier i did i lol
didn't have 2K for a really 1004J and someone snipped the 1004 MIK model i was looking at..on Reverb ( he posted here like 10 or so pages back and was so angry i bought this instead and am way happier i did i lol
I apologize I didn't see your full post history, I was just now looking at your past post. Honestly though that bass is really awesome and even better imo. The 1004J is hard to get and it seems to only be in European Markets that it was exported to. It seems 1005J a five string version is available more...
The TRBX604 seem closest for what's available in the moment and I love its skinny neck but yeah I am just saving up hoping to snatch a deal or just bite the bullet and buy one full price.
You just need a bachi now though to play it!
i Do have a Bachi its 100% vital to sick hacks watashi dake yuurei the neck on the TRB4 is a bit more chunky then i realized BUT its still a fast neck the street pro is hard as hell lol i'm like 60% at 150BPM and now just starting to learn WDY still tough lol also why is all badass J pop/J rock lole 3769835769269056BPM git guud type poopie the barrier to entry so SOOO damn high AHHHHI apologize I didn't see your full post history, I was just now looking at your past post. Honestly though that bass is really awesome and even better imo. The 1004J is hard to get and it seems to only be in European Markets that it was exported to. It seems 1005J a five string version is available more...
The TRBX604 seem closest for what's available in the moment and I love its skinny neck but yeah I am just saving up hoping to snatch a deal or just bite the bullet and buy one full price.
You just need a bachi now though to play it!
yeah everyone has the 1005js/TRB5-6s TRB4's like mine are damn rare lol i took out a loan that i am paying off next month as i just HAD to have it lol
and yes the inlays make the bass SO MUCH MORE the dots are mid tbh lol
Here's a few answers based on my OEM TRB series owner's manual, which covers the 4, 5, and 6, and my own experience with my TRB-6P.
1) Is the jazz pickup on these basses a single coil?
- Single coil according to the manual
2) Are the bridges on these grounded?
- The manual doesn't say, but I'd be amazed if it wasn't, given the active electronics and piezo system. My TRB-6P has what looks to be a think gauge wire going from the 1/4" jack to a hole in the body facing rearward, which I'm assuming is a ground. There's also a thicker wire going into the same hole, but I'm assuming that is the rear pickup lead as there is an identical one coming from another hole, and they terminate next to each other on the board with pin and socket connections.
3) Has anyone shielded their cavities and if so was it different to pull or lift out the preamp to do so?
- I have not on my TRB thankfully. Mine has what appears to be shielding paint, which is what I've typically used on other problematic instruments.
4) Unrelated to the hum, anyone know what the db ratings are for the bass and treble frequencies are?
- The manual doesn't say, but my recollection is +/- 6dB. I have nothing to back that up though ;-)
With regard to the humming, it's possible it could also be your 1/4" jack. I've replaced mine twice over the years. They are barrel jacks, which IME are a little trickier to replace.
Good luck!
Thanks @gscroggin
Definitely must be the input jack as the one end of my cord fits pretty loose. What makes the barrel type more challenging to replace?
I´m on holidays and I´ve been waiting to spend some time comparing these two animals.
The TRB6II came home on june or so, and I´ve been really busy working, and rehearsing and gigs...
so now is the time to have fun.
I love both, they are awesome, but I was surprised at first at how different in many aspects they are.
Anyway, I still have some doubts regarding specially the preamp of the JP, it is the more complex preamp I´ve found so far.
Off I go, I´ll be playing these two the next days, have fun guys, I know I will...
The TRB6II came home on june or so, and I´ve been really busy working, and rehearsing and gigs...
so now is the time to have fun.
I love both, they are awesome, but I was surprised at first at how different in many aspects they are.
Anyway, I still have some doubts regarding specially the preamp of the JP, it is the more complex preamp I´ve found so far.
Off I go, I´ll be playing these two the next days, have fun guys, I know I will...
perfect inlay setting and new jack (replaced the stock 25 year old jack) now its perfect and ready to ROCK (bocchi the ROCK AKA Kikuri the PSYCHEDELIC ROCK ) to be exact!
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my OG jack was also really sloppy loose and buzzing with any wiggle and after i got my new jack it is ROCK solid and snug
okay real talk anyone know the color code for the amber i wanna see how it mixes with purple just for S&G as if i can find a good mix i'll say screw it and have my bass repainted in that color
It's been a while but my recollection is that it was a PITA to get it loosened from the inside the first time. Although the nut is easy to get to, pushing it out of the body took some force, and I was nervous I was going to break something. I think it was probably just the finish or the wood expanding and pressing against it. I recall it was smoother when I did it the second time though.
Yamaha TRB manual.PDF
Due to popular demand, I scanned my original TRB manual. You should be able to reach it from the OneDrive link above. If not, PM me and I can email it to you. It's not all that fancy, but I understand why people would like to have a copy. It's got some hand-scribbled notes on it, but considering its 30+ years old, it's in decent shape. Enjoy
Due to popular demand, I scanned my original TRB manual. You should be able to reach it from the OneDrive link above. If not, PM me and I can email it to you. It's not all that fancy, but I understand why people would like to have a copy. It's got some hand-scribbled notes on it, but considering its 30+ years old, it's in decent shape. Enjoy
Just looked at the manual above, and daaamn they want you to have some high-ass action. I know it says thats for the 24th fret, but comparing where i have mine at the 24th fret, uh...
I hear that John Patitucci plays with high action, which I guess is cool if one is also an upright bass player, but I don't have the hand muscles for that. I had to shim the neck on my TRB JPII to get the action low, it plays really nice now!
yeah i havent had to shim my TRB6, but i got the 24th fret action at like ... 1.25mm on the high C and a bout 2mm on the low B. Adding 1.1-1.5mm to that seems absurd.
Okay patitucci blahblah blah. My TRBs sound best in medium low action so for me that is just janek's influence to the board.
Re: high action - some pro players (who play for hours a day and do many live shows) find higher action necessary because they build up strength in their hands and fingers which tends to cause one to play more aggressively which usually requires higher action so the strings can vibrate freely. If you are an occasional player lower action helps but I've found when I'm playing a lot I tend to raise the action to compensate.
i literally play hours a day and with higher action it makes my wrists hurt and lower action doesn't, simple as that.
