Can someone translate this for me (Not from Japanese, his English is perfect), but tech specs, which I am a bit of a moron about.
Evidently the "lower output" leads are custom and there are options.
"The output level of the pickup varies greatly depending on the instrument and the player.
If the output level of the pickup exceeds the allowable input level of the amplifier, the sound may be distorted.
It can attenuate the output level of the pickup by installing a capacitor inside the jack of the output cable.
We can make following attenuation custom output cables.
Order name: CPS-DB-OC(2n2),Attenuation: 10dB (about 1/3 Voltage)
Order name: CPS-DB-OC(3n3),Attenuation: 12.5dB (about 1/4 Voltage)
Order name: CPS-DB-OC(4n7),Attenuation: 15dB (about 1/5.6 Voltage)"
I have an EA iAmp500 and a iAmp Micro.
Here's what the iAMP500 manual says about inputs:
"ACTIVE INPUT: Low Impedance (Low Z) 10K ohms, optimized for active systems (basses
with internal power pre-amps, i.e., those that use batteries).
PASSIVE INPUT: High Impedance (High Z) 1meg ohm, optimized for piezo, and/or passive
systems as well as active basses which have low to moderate output levels.
STEREO IN: This feature allows the input of an outside signal other than the primary
instrument such as a CD player or Drum Machine.
FIRST STAGE OVERLOAD INDICATOR: A red warning light indicates when excessive input,
dangerous clipping or distortion levels are being sent into this critical first stage of the
iAMP®500. Occasional peaks which illuminate the overload LED are not dangerous.
LEVEL CONTROL: At the maximum setting for Level Control, the red Overload light barely
lights. Avoid prolonged or constant lighting of the red Overload light. If your Active signal is
not loud enough, switch to the Passive input jack, this will provide 6dB more signal.
And here's what the Micro has to say about it.
Source: Two, 1 MEG Ohm, instrument inputs designed for maximum flexibility for all
musical instrument applications.
IIS or Intelligent Input Switching, which can be actuated from the front panel or with
an optional footswitch, is a microprocessor controlled CIRCUIT that senses which
channel is activated and allows for different combinations of channel control. With
your bass plugged into channel 1, the switch will let you access the EQ on channel 1
or channel 2 (i.e. clean/solo). With basses plugged into channels 1 and 2, the IIS will
toggle between Channel 1, Channel 2, or both Channels 1 and 2. Internal jumpers
settings will provide Effects/Tuner send on either Channel 1 or on both Channels 1
and 2.
Level Indicator Yellow LED: The Level Indicator LED is a visual representation of
your input level. The LED should illuminate moderately under normal playing
conditions. Input gain can be adjusted with the Gain control knob and by the Input
Trim Pots (one for each channel) located on the top of the Micro and Doubler.
Gain Knobs: The Gain knobs allows for maximum signal level and headroom. Gain for
each channel can be adjusted by the Gain knob and by the trim pot located on top of
the amp.
Input Trim Pots:Located on the top, left of the Micro and
Doubler are two Input Trim Pots, one for each channel. See
“A Look Inside” for a diagram of the location of the Trim
Pots.
Using the Gain Knobs and Input Trim Pots:The yellow LED
for each channel should illuminate moderately under normal
playing conditions with the gain knob about half way up. If
you are unable to get the Level Indicator LED to light with the gain knobs about half
way up, using a mini screwdriver, turn the corresponding Input Trim Pot clockwise to
increase the gain. If under normal playing conditions the Level Indicator LED lights
too easily with the Gain Knob at a low position, then, using a mini screwdriver, turn
the corresponding Input Trim Pot counter clockwise to decrease the gain."
I also have an fDeck hpf, if that is helpful or relevant.
Are my amps capable of handling the regular input or if I need to have his customize something what would the optimal choice be?
